My son’s ’02 Ranger is making clanking sounds when put into gear (V6 – 5 sp, w/ 88,000 mi.). We’re thinking it needs a clutch. I’ve done plenty of clutches (too many!!!) over the years. I’m thinking he has a hydraulic clutch, because it takes oil. Is this a job that we can do ourselves, or do we need to (should we) take it to a pro for replacement?

 

clucnking sound....? so bad disk....? are you sure UJs and engine/tranny mounts are really good?

Whell, what do you need:
- Clutch kit (disk, pressure plate, bearing, slave)
- old tranny input shaft ore centering tool
- one weekend to drop tranny, change all parts, assembly all, fill and bleed system

 

Everything else seems good and tight. I've just never dealt w/ a hydraulic clutch before. My son took it to autozone to see about geting the parts and the clerk there told him that it wasn't a job that he could do in the driveway. I'm getting too old and fat to be laying under vehicle all weekend. I've replaced more clutches than I can count. Last time was about ten years ago, my son exploded one on his Mustang. He's going to get to do this one himself!! Although, they did add a little fluid and the noise seems to have gone away. ??

 

Of course you can do it in a driveway. (Most clerks are not mechanics.)

Pablo-UA has it right. Ensure you get a complete clutch kit that has the pilot bushing, throwout bearing, plastic centering tool and most importantly the metal fork for disconnection of the clutch hydraulic line from the slave cylinder.

Be careful with the hydraulic line and be ready to bleed the system after clutch installation. I break loose the bleed nipple before removing the trans so I know if I need to replace it (or deal with a twisted-off nipple).

They are easy transmissions to do and do not weigh much.

Remember to service the transmission oil and to seal the leak-prone plugs on the top cover or replace them with freeze plugs.

 

The kit looks to run about $300, not sure what the metal fork is though. Is it similar to the fork that actuates the throwout bearing on a non-hydraulic?

 

If you've never done one, get a Chiltons manual-loads of info...

 

The small fork is for releasing the hydraulic coupling that connects the line to the slave cylinder.

Perfection Clutch - HT-01 Clutch Hydraulic Disconnect Tool

PERFECTION: BLEEDING A RANGER / EXPLORER CLUTCH REVISITED

 

You sure you don't have the infamous driveshaft clunk, although it does not match your description exactly? Requires lubricating the slip yoke / joint on the driveshaft. Check the 2 threads in the Tech Info Drivetrain section

 

autozone has the clutch kit lifetime warranty, they also have the slave with a lifetime warrenty, dont know about the master cyl however. For the cost I would actually recommend that the master be replaced at the same time, they are prone to fail if all other components are R&R without them and since you will be working on the vehicle anyhow.

Fill the pilot beariing with extra grease once its installed as they can cause a lot of issues also. A trick I have now for the trans removal install are a couple of long studs to let the trans slide off and then on as that is where I had the major problems with them. Now I install the studs slide it all off and then slide it on and minimize problems with the pilot bearing etc. No they are not heavy but they are awkward to handle, drain completely prior to pulling or you will have ATF all over.

The tool in question runs about $5 at AZ or checkers or??

You may need a couple of 15-17MM flexible sockets and a 24 inch or so extension to reach the top bolts (mine is a 94 4.0). Harbor freight has this stuff prety cheap. Also at this time R&R the Ujoints, maybe the hanger bearing (carrier) while you are at it.

Lotsa thiing you can do just depends on how involved you want to be with it.

 

This is excellent information. I didn’t even know this truck had a hydraulic type bearing, until my son told me that the clerk at az added a little fluid to it. I was certainly hoping that the noise was just coming from the driveshaft, but it’s definitely inside the clutch, actually sounds to me like it’s the throwout bearing. Anyway, we’ll be doing the complete clutch. Truck needs front brakes too, so while my son is underneath wrestling with the tranny, I’ll probably be doing the brakes! Guess I’d better pick up another Chilton/Haynes manual to add to my collection. Kids…

 

The hydraulic line has a self-releasing ring on it, no need for a tool. Also, just go ahead and get the slave cylinder, at least that what I always do. They require the trans to be dropped anyway, and they are the most failure prone part of the clutch system. If I were you, I'd check things out very carefully before diving in, you may be barking up the wrong tree!

 

tranny is about 50 kg, so it is really possible to drop tranny from underneath of truck on driveway.

 

As noted it could be other things, you will be able to tell when you drain the fluid. Mine had a bearing cage and other stuff come out on the magnet so that will be your 1st clue. I dont know about the 90 but there were problems with the top plugs leaking all the trans fluid out, the PO of mine had them RTV'd back in but it had already toasted the main shaft and 1st gear. So look closely as it is a PIA to pull a 2d time.

 

Also if you are gonna do the front brakes rebuilt calipers are available for around $20 each so if its got a lot of miles go head and R&R them also, the rebuild kits for mine were like $15, and I got the whole claiper for $20, add fluid bleed a little and go.

 

If you want to ensure that the new clutch will last a long time, poosible the life of the truck. Get a good center force, they are an awesome clutch, I've used with for years, Even the regular replacement CF clutch has 30% more holding power than a stock clutch.