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valve lash adjusments again

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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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From: Rockwall TX
valve lash adjusments again

ok so i adjusted my valves but im pretty sur i didnt do it right. the way my shop manuel said was put the #1 cilinder on tdc and adjust #1 intake and exust #4 E #2 I #5 E #7 I but the number 5 exust valve was open. so i looked back at some old forms on here about how to adjust them and some one said to start on one side and turn my engine till one of my intake valves was just starting to open and than adjust the exust valve. after i adjusted the exuast valve than to turn my engine till the exust valve was just starting to open and than adjust my intake valve and so on and so on till all my valves were adjusted. so i did that. but when i started my truck it was clattering.loud. and my truck was kinda poping out of my exust piped. i talked to a mechanic up the street to day and he said that i adjusted them to close. i adjusted them to .019 like my manuel says. my question here is what did i do wrong. are they to close? did i adjust them wrong? help please
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:40 PM
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Well im not a real big wizz on everything but i just adjusted the valves on my 312 and the way i did it was i turned the motor over till both valves for a cylinder were at top-dead-center and then set both gaps to .018 and then turn the motor over till the next cylinders valves were at top-dead-center and then adjust them and so on. After all this my truck was amazingly quiet compared to what it was. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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OK I think I can help you out here. First off the valves can be adjusted hot or cold- it makes almost no difference. So do it cold and you will have a much easier time of it.

Start off by removing the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn, and put the socket on the crank pulley bolt.

Start off with Cylinder # 1, and rotate the engine until the EXHAUST valve for #1 is just starting to OPEN then adjust the INTAKE valve to .019".

Then rotate the engine until the INTAKE valve opens and then just starts to CLOSE and adjust your EXHAUST valve to .019".

Repeat for all the other 7 cylinders. Don't forget to remove the socket from the pulley!

If you try to adjust the exhaust valve when the intake valve is just starting to OPEN, the exhaust valve lifter is still coming off the cam lobe and your setting will be way to big.

Steve
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Another thing to remember is what is the condition of your rocker arms. If they have excessive ware from pounding on the valve stem over the years you my not be able to adjust them properly.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead
Another thing to remember is what is the condition of your rocker arms. If they have excessive ware from pounding on the valve stem over the years you my not be able to adjust them properly.
For example, if the rocker tips have wear pockets that are .004 deep and cold lash is set at .019, actual lash will be .023. Not much to do there if you have limited experience, except to have the tips resurfaced smooth. There is a Walt Knuckles method of adjusting that can be found on the Ys forever site, but I did not find it accurate on a 1.43 rocker.

My favorite way of setting lash is the one in Eichman's book which has the damper divided into 90 degree segments. It works well if you have taken the damper off and permanently marked it.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 46yblock
There is a Walt Knuckles method of adjusting that can be found on the Ys forever site, but I did not find it accurate on a 1.43 rocker.
Yeah, Walts method was first posted here, by me, before the Y-block site existed

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tml#post479803

about 5 months after he passed on. He originally posted it on the y-block mailing list,
and I figured it should be shared...

Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100 4.8L V8
'68 F100 6.4L V8
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 Capri 5.0L V8
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
2 '76 Capris, 2.8L V6s
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve_L
Yeah, Walts method was first posted here, by me, before the Y-block site existed

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tml#post479803

about 5 months after he passed on. He originally posted it on the y-block mailing list,
and I figured it should be shared...

Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100 4.8L V8
'68 F100 6.4L V8
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 Capri 5.0L V8
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
2 '76 Capris, 2.8L V6s
'78 Bronco 7.5L V8
'86 F150 5.0L V8
2 '87 XR4Tis 2.3L Turbo
'01 ZX2 2.0L DOHC
'08 Subaru Imprezza 2.5L DOHC Boxer
There it is, thanks for pointing us to your post, Cansus? OT, but someone in the thread apparently referenced the Y as a "lugger". That could be a topic for another thread.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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ok i re adjuste them but its still kinda popping out of the tail pipe but its not clattering but still runs horrible
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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Was it popping out the tail pipe before you adjusted the valve or did it start since you adjusted them?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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it started since. like it kinda idels fast and its just kinda popping i dont really know how to describe it not like a back fire.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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Hate to say it but it sounds like you may have a valve or three too tight?? since it started after you adjusted them...
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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well the first time i adjusted them it was doing the same thing but it was also clattering
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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Mistakenly mix up a couple of plug wires, assuming you had them off as someone earlier suggested...
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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nope it was doing it befour i took them off. ill double check it but i dont think so. its probably that i had them to far apart and than moved them to close
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 12:43 AM
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Could you be mixing up the Intake and Exhaust valves? Remember from valve to valve along each bank of cylinders they are ordered E I I E E I I E. They are not E I E I E I E I. Just asking......

Take your time and go through it once again. Then I think I would go to the Autozone and rent (borrow really- it doesn't cost anything) a compression gauge to verify that all cylinders are within about 20% of each other. If that checks out, and the firing order is correct, then at least you have a base to start trouble shooting from if it still isn't running right.

Steve
 
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