ok thanks ill try it to marrow evening. a mechine shop will be able to resurface them right. what else do i need to do to them. the locking nuts were you adjuste them, some of them are loose can i just replace them or do i need to replace the rocker arm to with the loose ones. and were is a good place to get them.

 

Ben-

If the rocker faces are that worn, the shaft and bushings are likely worn too. Although any machine shop could re-face the rockers, you are better off just sending the assemblies to either John Mummert in CA or Rocker Arm Specialties in CA for replacements. Research those two names a little and go from there.

Are you getting oil to the rockers? These engines have a tendency to lack oil delivery to the top end for several reasons. Better check that before investing $$ in new rockers.

Steve

 

ok so if i just resurface the rocker arms whats it gonna do will it tear up any thing else

 

It would be an improvement over their present condition!

 

ok got the rocker arms back in there and adjusted them and it still is poping. ok so i played around with them and got it to stop. now its the same as befour i started to mess with it but the valve lashes are no all the same but it runs better. what does this mean

 

Were the rockers re-faced already? Take some time to explain in a little detail so we can help you better.

 

ok sorry im not the best with describing stuff. ok yes they were re surfaced. i gaped them to .019. when i started my truck it was just the same way as befour i had them resurfaced. ok to me it seams like my valves are not opening all the way. thats to me. so i tightened them up a little and it ran a little better. so i got to messing with them a little and got it were it was not popping. it would idle kinda rogh like befour i messed with the valves. ok so i started pulling plug wires off trying to see wich cylinders would make it worse. there were only 3 that didnt. 3 thats all. if i take off all plug wires except for those 3 it still runs pretty much the same except when i give it some gas. ok if my valves are just a little off can it make this do it. what would my engine be running like if they were a little tight. what would it be running if they were a little loose. ok also if i go a couple of burnt valves would it do this.

 

Ben-

Burned and leaky exhaust valves can cause a poor idle that can be heard as "chuffing" out the exhaust, not really popping though. A few thousandths one way or the other may affect idle quality too but really- if your firing order is right and all the valve clearances are correct, then random tightening of the valves resulting in improved idling suggests you've likely got some lobes going flat on the cam, or very worn lifters or both.

Quick and dirty test- Set all valves again properly and evenly as described before (exhaust opening-adjust the intake,.....intake just starting to close- adjust the exhaust). Then starting with your suspected bad cylinders, measure how far down each valve gets depressed while you turn the engine. A small ruler or tape measure will do if you're careful. Take your time and record your results on paper using a diagram or something. If some get pushed down measurably less than on the good cylinders- your cam is worn.

Replacing the cam in the Y block with the engine in the vehicle can be done, but it's difficult because the lifters can't be removed from the top. If your cam is worn and you are getting oily spark plugs too, it may be time to save your duckets for an overhaul or find a replacement engine.

Steve

 

ok ill try that now lets say that my cam is worn. could i adjust my valve lash by mesuring how far the valvle opens. like set them all were the valvles open the the same amount. i just need it to get by for a couple of months befour i really tear in to it.

 

If the engine is worn out, then do what ever it takes to get by for now until you can fix it.

 

how far down should they go. i mesured mine and this is what i got. #1cylinder I 1 5/8 E 1 9/16 #2 I 1 9/16 E 1 1/2 #3 I 1 5/8 E 1 1/2 #4 I 1 5/8 E 1 5/8 #5 I 1 5/8 E 1 5/8 #6 I 1 5/8 E 1 11/16 #7 I 1 11/16 E 1 5/8 #8 I 1 5/8 E 1 9/16

 

If the valve adjustment is correct, your cam and or lifters are very worn. If you need to drive the truck for the time being, I see nothing wrong with adjusting them to whatever it takes so you can get to work and back. I'd be looking for a new motor if you don't want to overhaul it yourself. I would contact Ted Eaton for advice since you live in TX and near him. He lives in Lorena and is an expert on Y blocks. Good luck.

Eaton Balancing | www.eatonbalancing.com

 

thanks man. you have really helped me out alot. but i went out and bought me a new truck well new to me 1990 f150 4x4. i couldnt get it to run any better so now im gonna try to overhaul it my self. thanks for the sight. and thanks again

ben

 

I don't know if you could ever find one, but back in the fifties when these engines were as common as six cylinder Chevies, the best way to adjust the valves was with a P&G Valve gapper. It was a fixture with a dial indicator. You could even properly adjust worn rocker arms with this system.

You might be able to find one of these on ebay if you watched for it.

Back in those days we tried everything under the Sun that would allow us to adjust them quickly (flat rate work) and effectively. As it turned out, we found the P&G tool to be the most accurate way. Also unlike other engines they did not seem to throw a whole lot of oil all over the place when doing an engine running valve adjustment.

My $0.02,

 

... There's always a but. P&G valve gappers are going for pretty large dollars these days. I don't REALLY need one because I have roller rockers, but I WANT one!!