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Well i did a quick look through the forums but thought I'd ask my question. Today i went up to the snow, and by snow i mean 4-6" of slush, so nothing really. Didnt work the truck that hard. When i got home i noticed that around 20mph it slips, RPMs go up and the truck still moves but not like it should. Once it hits about 30MPH it you can feel it grab and the truck takes off. Fluid level is good. I bought the truck at 111K and it has 113K now. They said when i bought it that the previous had just gotten it rebuilt, but i know nothing about the rebuild specifically.
So any ideas on what i should check? What should i do?
How does the color of the fluid look? Does it smell burnt? Can you get it checked for codes anywhere? Can you find out who did the rebuild? Some do a rebuild and never touch the valve body. At the very least you are going to have to change the fluid and filter. Drop the pan, not just a flush. But I would not do it until you check for codes.
Well i did a quick look through the forums but thought I'd ask my question. Today i went up to the snow, and by snow i mean 4-6" of slush, so nothing really. Didnt work the truck that hard. When i got home i noticed that around 20mph it slips, RPMs go up and the truck still moves but not like it should. Once it hits about 30MPH it you can feel it grab and the truck takes off. Fluid level is good. I bought the truck at 111K and it has 113K now. They said when i bought it that the previous had just gotten it rebuilt, but i know nothing about the rebuild specifically.
So any ideas on what i should check? What should i do?
That clearly sounds like defective torque converter and a problem with lock up. I had a F150 transmission rebuild and TC replaced after my tranny filled with water from Katrina. The engine would rev then grab and at time spin the wheels. My wife was driving and with a police car next to her she pushed on the gas it didn't move so she pushed harder. The TC engaged and gave her a really nice burn out.
Sounds like you are having the same problem. If once it does move you still have strong pull I put my $$ on the Torque converter as defective.
If the TC is pulling but it only slips in low / first you might have a damaged first gear clutch pack.
It sure doesn't sound like a torque converter problem to me. At 20 MPH the torque converter isn't locked. It isn't locked at 30 MPH, either. I'm betting on a failed clutch, probably the intermediate.
Or another thought, maybe the exhaust backpressure valve is on, that will greatly reduce the engine power and many people mistake that for a transmission problem. The engine will still rev, but much slower, and the truck still goes, but not like you expect it to.
It sure doesn't sound like a torque converter problem to me. At 20 MPH the torque converter isn't locked. It isn't locked at 30 MPH, either. I'm betting on a failed clutch, probably the intermediate.
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We're not talking here about the OD lock up but the pressure build up to engage 1st gear. This is different. The TC prior to 94 still had a lockup to the transmission to move. But no OD.
How does the color of the fluid look? Does it smell burnt? Can you get it checked for codes anywhere? Can you find out who did the rebuild? Some do a rebuild and never touch the valve body. At the very least you are going to have to change the fluid and filter. Drop the pan, not just a flush. But I would not do it until you check for codes.
Well it doesnt smell burnt when i check it. Its really clean tranny fluid too, its sort of hard to see on the dipstick without tilting it around.
Ill go and have the codes pulled and get some tranny fluid, filter, and new gasket for the pan and then go from there.
Well it doesnt smell burnt when i check it. Its really clean tranny fluid too, its sort of hard to see on the dipstick without tilting it around.
Ill go and have the codes pulled and get some tranny fluid, filter, and new gasket for the pan and then go from there.
If the fluid isn't burnt I don't know that I would take the time to change it. I would have someone check it out before I would take the time to change the fluid. But then that's just my opionion and I am sure there are others.
If the fluid isn't burnt I don't know that I would take the time to change it. I would have someone check it out before I would take the time to change the fluid. But then that's just my opionion and I am sure there are others.
The main this is to change the filter correct? which is why im dropping the pan and changing the fluid. or should i not bother with it?
so i pulled the pan off and there arent any metal shaving in the pan just on the magnet. but i would assume that some can be expected. so how much should be on that magnet? it looks like theres a soft fuzz over the magnet now.
so i pulled the pan off and there arent any metal shaving in the pan just on the magnet. but i would assume that some can be expected. so how much should be on that magnet? it looks like theres a soft fuzz over the magnet now.
What you describes sounds normal. If you do put in a new filter make sure you have the one with the long neck as there are 2, long and short. The short will not allow proper fluid flow.
I still think there are other issues best of luck.
We're not talking here about the OD lock up but the pressure build up to engage 1st gear. This is different. The TC prior to 94 still had a lockup to the transmission to move. But no OD.
No, none of that is correct. That is not how a torque converter works. I'm not going to explain it here, if you want to learn how a torque converter works go to HowStuffWorks - Learn How Everything Works!, they have a good section on torque converters.
As long as the torque converter has fluid in it, even at zero pressure, it will drive the input shaft of the transmission and the truck will move just fine.
Look at the exhaust backpressure valve. Since the trans fluid and pan don't have anything unusual, I think you have an engine problem, not a trans problem.
Put your back window down when it's doing it (assuming you have a CrewCab) and see if you hear the "jet engine sound" when the EBPV closes. Also, it *shouldn't* do it when it's warmed up. If it does it with the engine fully warmed up, chances are it's not the EBPV.
I'd definitely try to find out who rebuilt it and pay them a visit -- just for peace of mind.
As long as the torque converter has fluid in it, even at zero pressure, it will drive the input shaft of the transmission and the truck will move just fine.
I guess the older cars/trucks w/o lockup torque converters just had a shaft from the flywheel to the front pump to make them go. That would also be no pressure in the TC. Wonder why the 53 caddy had a TC you could take apart? Perhaps to weld a better shaft. Aren't we having fun.
Guess the older cars such as the 48 Desoto did not hydraulic lock to the tranny either. This is not to imply that there aren't other problems I am sure you can solve. So feel free to help them solve the issues.
2.) set the pcm back to stock. i have an edge evolution
3.) now it "slips", delay in shifting, or something like that between 1st and 2nd. if i accelerate at a slow pace i dont notice anything, but if i accelerate at a slightly higher than normal rate, barely pulling away from the cars around me thats when it happens.
thats where im at now. i just got ride of my toyota and got this because i was tired of dumping money into it and it seems like i might end up doing the same thing. against my gut feeling i bought a ford.
Put your back window down when it's doing it (assuming you have a CrewCab) and see if you hear the "jet engine sound" when the EBPV closes. Also, it *shouldn't* do it when it's warmed up. If it does it with the engine fully warmed up, chances are it's not the EBPV.
I'd definitely try to find out who rebuilt it and pay them a visit -- just for peace of mind.
well its just an extended cab. but i did try to listen and didnt here anything except the intake and the exhaust. and this does happen when the truck is warm.