****** http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">****** name="ProgId" content="Word.Document">****** name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 10">****** name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 10"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CDuda%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsoht ml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> Hello all,
I’m a newbie to towing and would like some advice before I starting buying certain items. I won't be driving cross country, just locally to camp. I already have:
<o> </o>
87 F150 with 5.0 EFI V8 engine, 3.55 rear axle ratio, automatic trans
<o> </o>
24’ camping trailer 4,000lb empty, 5,500 lbs max load.
<o> </o>
According to the owners manual I think I’m fine with the weight of the trailer. What I’d like to know is if I’m buying the right accessories. I was considering:
<o> </o>
Class III receiver hitch

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~41004.htm?vehicleid=1987939<o></o>
friction sway controller
Friction Sway Control 3400 : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com
Tekonsha prodigy brake controller
Brake controller kit with wires, bracket, etc. (planning to install myself)
<o> </o>
Any advice would be appreciated. I’ve been trying to do lots of reading online, but now my brain is getting overwhelmed…
<o> </o>
Thanks in advance for any info

 

Some of the links didn't work. From what I see you have most of the equipment needed. The hitch link didn't work, are you getting the equalizer (type) hitch head with the torsion bars? It will make your towing a lot easier and more controllable.

You should be O.K. with your truck. It will suck wind going up hills with that engine/gearing. Running larger than stock tires will add to the problem.

Make sure you have LT type tires on your truck and air the rears to max rated pressure (helps to control rear sway). Airing the trailer tires to max rated pressure also helps.

Good luck

 

Get a Prodigy controller (best for the $$$) and make sure that 150's brake system is as good as you can get it.

Welcome to FTE!!!

Steve

 

Sorry my first post was so messed up! I tried to compose it in word, but it didn't transfer very well.

Anyway, the hitch I was considering is something like:

Draw-Tite Class IV, 2 inch Trailer Receiver Hitch 40050

with a basic sway bar like:
Reese Standard Friction Sway Control 26660

Or do I need one of those more elaborate hitch and control bar setups?

I'm trying to stay on the inexpensive side, but not at the cost of safety!

Thanks again...

 

Get the equalizer hitch. My dad used to tow a trailer of similar weight with a '94 F150 with the 302 and 3.55s. It did fine as far as stopping and handling with the help of an equalizer hitch and air bags in the rear. Going was a different story, it was always in second gear on the hills going about 35 or 40 MPH. You should be fine, just slow. If you find this to be too bothersome, do a gear swap and get some 4.10s.

 

Equal-i-zer brand hitch is one of the best hitches out there.

RVWholesalers.com RV Parts*,*Hitches / Towing*,*Equal-i-zer Hitches and Accessories*,*Equal-i-zer Hitch 600/6000lbs Trailer Weight

Reese Dual Cam is another excellent hitch...but more expensive generally.

Many use the simple friction sway bar...my thinking is that we've got a lot riding on our setup (our family inside the vehicle as well as others we share the road with)...plus we've got a fair amount invested $$$ wise in the whole setup...a hundred $ more for the Equal-i-zer is small potatoes. The Equal-i-zer really helps stabilize the TT under some trying conditions.

Let's face it...we carry around sway control 95-99% of the time as added weight...a properly balanced ball pulled trailer needs NO sway control. However when we are on the road in the WRONG conditions that sends our ball pulled trailer into uncontrolled oscillations...things like cross winds, passing semi's, etc...at that exact moment when the trailer starts to oscillate...it is TOO LATE to go and get more sway control...~$100 is a small insurance policy to get one of the best WD and sway control hitches out there.

Prodigy is also one of the best you can get...especially for the money. RVWholesalers.com RV Parts*,*Brake Controllers*,*Brake Controllers*,*Tekonsha*,*Prodigy Brake Control by Tekonsha

Once you get these devices...it is important to PROPERLY set up your hitch for WD. Without setting it up properly...you are not getting the safety you should be getting from this hitch. Follow this thread for PROPER setup of your hitch.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure

BTW...WELCOME to FTE!

Good luck,
Joe

 

First of all, thank you everyone for the advice. Most of this stuff is new for me, and somewhat overwhelming.

I agree that I should get a quality sway control product instead of cheating. I certainly don't want anyone to get hurt from an accident.

Aside from the equalizer, how about this similiar product. It looks like a copy of the equalizer?

Weight distributing hitches, equalizer hitches by Draw Tite

I've also encountered Blue OX WD hitches that seem to do the same thing. How about those?

 

kkeduda,

The confusing part about these hitches is that they all seem to look alike.

The differences I can see with the DrawTite over the original Equal-i-zer is how the WD bars attach to the hitch head.

The Equal-i-zer attachment provides yet another 'friction' interface. The Drawtite method is simply a trunion interface that really only adds a little bit of friction to resist the forces of the TT yaw motion on the TV.

From what I have seen in looking at these 'copy-cat' designs...they truly do miss one important part of the 'friction' equation...and that is the attachment of the WD bars INTO the hitch head...the Equal-i-zer is unique in that respect from what I can tell. It is a highly effective means of WD AND Sway control...it may cost a little more...but IMO in this case you really do get what you pay for.

I look at it this way...many folks have near $50,000 or MORE invested in their truck AND trailer...plus the family you carry inside the truck...while the Equal-i-zer may be $100 or so more...I truly feel it is an excellent hitch...and I have NO affiliation with Equal-i-zer. The other friction based hitch I feel is on par with the Equal-i-zer is a Dual Cam (DC) made by Reese or Drawtite. I used to tow with a DC and it is highly effective in controlling sway...

The only ones IMO that are better than the Equal-z-er or CD cost significantly more and they are the Hensley, ProPride and Pull-Rite...but those are in the $2500 range...again a personal choice that many (myself included) have chosen to make...I do pull all over the country so it works for me.

To be honest...I'd stick with the Equal-i-zer OR DC...I know the others 'look' similar...but from what I have been able to see from the photos...there are differences that I think will make a difference in the effectiveness of the sway control...I have NO scientific data to back that up...I am merely going by what I can see from the photos...that is all.

Good luck...I know these decisions can be very confusing!

Joe.

 

The equalizer seems like the way to go for me. Can anyone tell me:

1. Can you back up, or make tight turns with it on?

2. Is it loud? I've heard that the metal on metal points squeal and squeak?

3. Is it easy to hookup and disconnect?

 

Used an Equal-i-zer for past 2 years:
1 - No problem backing-up, or making tight turns. A good dealer/shop will check the turning radius after hitch is installed and trailer hooked-up. Even with a tight turn, I still have 2+ inches of bar left on; so even if you do install yourself, make sure you check this.
2 - Noise - yes, they do make some noise and that is reassurance the friction is doing it's job. I don't think it's that bad. You can LIGHTLY grease that portion, but as equalizer notes it does reduce the sway capability. I personally don't add the extra grease and the bit of noise doesn't bother me - most noticeable when you are pulling in or out of the campground.
3 - VERY easy to hook-up and disconnect - but you really need to have a good electric tongue jack to make it easy and quick. With the electric jack, my wife has no problem helping hook it up, or even doing it herself.

 

1) Yes
2) Yes (unfortunately it can be...seems to lessen the more it is used from what i have heard)
3) Yes

A trick for hitching is to drop the trailer on the ball and latch the coupler...then crank DOWN the jack and raise the trailer back up...this will slightly lift the rear of your vehicle too...but doing this reduces the amount of 'tension' in the spring bars for hitching...then when you get the bars in the brackets you simply raise the tongue jack into its holder and this LOADS the tension in the bars. Simply do the opposite for un-hitching...meaning when you park...crank the jack down and lift the rear of the vehicle slightly and this UNLOADS the bars so you can easily get them out of the brackets...

Good luck...I do not think you will be disappointed with the Equal-i-zer in any way.

Only thing to ensure now is that you properly size your WD bars to the tongue weight. Do you have a trailer yet...I can't remember if you post that or not.

Joe.

 

How do you properly size WD bars? I'm not sure what that's referring to...

I do already have a 24' TT, 4000 lb dry, 5500 lb max.

[Only thing to ensure now is that you properly size your WD bars to the tongue weight. Do you have a trailer yet...I can't remember if you post that or not.

Joe.[/quote]

 

That has to do with WD bar rating as it pertains to 'loaded' tongue weight. Ignore DRY tongue weights from the TT brochures...

In your case...you can take the 5500#'s and multiply by 15% for a good estimate for 'maximum' tongue weight or a loaded tongue weight of 825#.

A good low end loaded tongue weight to shoot for is 12%...so on the low side you would be at 660#'s.

So to 'properly' size your WD bars you would need bars in the ~800# range.

600# bars IMO may be too light. But 1000# bars would may be too heavy...unfortunately Equal-i-zer does not make an 800# bar set...

Reese does make an 800# DC set RVWholesalers.com RV Parts , Hitches / Towing , Travel Trailer Hitches , Reese Travel Trailer Hitches , Reese Straight Line Dual Cam 800lb/8000lb which is slightly more expensive than the Equal-i-zer but may be a much better matchup...take a look.

It is important to properly size the bars to the tongue weight to not give too stiff a ride or not be able to properly transfer sufficient tongue weight fore and aft...

The DC is a great hitch...there are probably cheaper on line sources for this 800# DC setup...

Joe.