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For an 85 F150 ext.cab.
As of right now it has a Sony deck and the 6 1/2" speakers in the doors.
I'm looking at:
Alpine headunit, which I already have
Alpine 6 1/2" components for the front
add Alpine 5x7 2-ways in the back
add two Alpine Type S 10's subs under the rear seat.
Alpine V-Power amp for subs - 1000rms
Alpine V-Power amp for speakers - 600rms
I know I'm getting my alternator rebuilt for a higher output, as well as the 'Big 3' upgrade, but its still 1600 rms watts. I am also adding auxiliary fog lights. Worst case scenario, driving with headlights/ fog lights listening to music at a good sound level. I don't want something that pounds, just sounds good when I feel like turning it up.
The part I'm unsure of is adding a capacitor.
I've found some research that capacitors aren't what marketers image them to be.
But with my potential power draw and demand on the alternator renewing the battery, should I still add a capacitor, maybe just a smaller one like a 1 -2 Farad? In a way, it could help share some of the demand from the battery, or like acting like a reserve.
Any help, or share what your system has been running with or without a capacitor?
A capacitor is not a cure, but it's not harmful either. If you go back to the water analog that is commonly used with electrical, you have a pressure tank near the spigot, then another near the pump and 100' foot of pipe between. When you open the spigot full power, you have pressure on demand at the spigot and it gives a the pump a chance to supply the demand with a drop. Then when you cut the spigot half off, the pump refills the near pressure tank and keeps the tap going.
I would definately have something near the sub's amp. Your looking at over 125A, a little reserve capacitance will be nice. If you have the space a quick discharge battery will be a good choice, otherwise mount a small package cap.
It depends on the alternator and the optima. I would say no smaller than 230A and the 34/78 series optima plus a cap should be a pretty good combo. I had an HO built 230A with a D34/78M optima and 1f cap on mine. The marine battery died every 3 years, so I switched out but with my stereo at a moderate level and my winch spooling I have no flickering.
I know deep cycle batteries are common, but I think you might run into a timing issue. The deep cycles don't like to punch out massive amounts of current quickly. The cap may have a bit of demand on it. If you experience issues, you might want to try a starting battery. Also, with the 230A plus alt, you should really run 1/0 or bigger big three.
Your list in your sig says you are running tens, which is basically close to my intended setup. If you aren't having problems, especially with a winch, I should be ok.
Ok so I'll run 1 or 0 gauge for big 3, and I've seen that its recommended for my ext cab length and watts I should be running at least 2 for the power.
Also, by a starting battery, would an Optima red top be the ideal type you are referring to, or is that still deep cycle?
dont add a capacitor they suck trust me... if u want something to measure ur voltage at all times get a stinger digital... but if ur lights dim get KINETIK H600 its 100 of 1.0 farad caps and its small look in to that.. ..
also if u want to learn more just visit stevemeadedesigns.com - Home u can get a box built and learn a lot of new stuff
I don't have the system yet - I'm planning while my truck is torn apart so I can take care of wiring on the engine compartment side and then move on to the interior wiring as I get there. I'm just looking to know what I can do before I come to that point so I can do it right, and hope when its all done I am problem free.
With this much power, you're going to need some SERIOUS cable, especially if you only have one battery up front.
I would use double runs of 1/0 gauge cable (2 power, 2 grounds) if you're only going to have one battery.
However... If you're going to design this properly, I would suggest installing a good battery up front, and at least two more batteries within 2 feet of wire length of the amplifiers. (skip the HO alternator, unless you absolutely NEED to burn money)
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