Glow Plugs not working
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Glow Plugs not working
When I bought my '88 7.3 it didn't start very easy. This was because the glow plugs would turn on for only about 5 seconds. I found 1 burnt out plug so I replaced it. I then had a longer cycle- 8-10 seconds but still wouldn't start without cycling them twice, and then the cycles got short. so I replaced all 8. Now I get a 2 second cycle and thats it- then about 20 clicks. Unfortunately I used autolites, But I tested them, they all work. But I will order a set of motorcrafts today.
Any ideas? This really pissed me off.
Any ideas? This really pissed me off.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Here is a picture, wrong glow plug system but close enough.
Look for the connector in the red circle.
You truck will have two large AWG yellow wires in one end of the connector where the one in the picture has large orange wires on the bottom end.
Examine the connector for any signs of melting or deformed plastic close to the yellow wires.
If the plug looks melted, you are going to have to splice the wires around the connector, the yellow wires are the power feed to the glow plug relay.
Caution if you do have to splice the wires, they are both hot at all times if the battery cables are on the batteries.
Now on the glow plug relay/controller there is a black ground wire.
Make sure it has a good electrical ground.
The new style glow plug controller uses resistance feedback to time the glow cycle.
And resistance in the power feed, the controller ground, or glow plugs out of resistance spec changes the glow time.
Optimum glow plug resistance is .5 to 1 ohm each.
Look for the connector in the red circle.
You truck will have two large AWG yellow wires in one end of the connector where the one in the picture has large orange wires on the bottom end.
Examine the connector for any signs of melting or deformed plastic close to the yellow wires.
If the plug looks melted, you are going to have to splice the wires around the connector, the yellow wires are the power feed to the glow plug relay.
Caution if you do have to splice the wires, they are both hot at all times if the battery cables are on the batteries.
Now on the glow plug relay/controller there is a black ground wire.
Make sure it has a good electrical ground.
The new style glow plug controller uses resistance feedback to time the glow cycle.
And resistance in the power feed, the controller ground, or glow plugs out of resistance spec changes the glow time.
Optimum glow plug resistance is .5 to 1 ohm each.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 1
From: Fitzpatrick Alabama
I would recommend you go ahead and replace the glowplug relay, they aren't very much money, and a faulty one can hold them too long and cause them to burn out. Get a new relay and some motorcraft plugs, then see what happens. For mine, I ran a 4 gauge battery cable I robbed off a 76 Ford. On the 76 Ford it went from the starter solenoid to the starter. I used it to go from the battery to the hot post on the glowplugs, fixed the problem. I would replace the relay first, since yours are cycling. My problem was the glowplugs weren't coming on at all.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
The controller decided to start working again last night. I went out this morning and tried to start the truck. It's about 40F. The glows came on for 12 seconds, and she just cranked and cranked, no fire or sputter. Cycled them again, same result. I have very steady smoke out the exhaust so I know Its getting fuel. WTF!? It used to start down to 20F when I got it.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,623
Likes: 5,633
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
it will not start without ether because you have autolite plugs in it, and they are all burned out.
as a note, if you have one working glow plug and use ether, you can blow the engine.
as a note, if you have one working glow plug and use ether, you can blow the engine.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,347
Likes: 1
From: Maysville, Kentucky
Get motorcrafts and you will probaly be fine. Mine had all autolites from the last owner. I replaced them with motorcraft, hooked my gp controller back up, had it by passed, and turn on the key. The light stayed on like it should and she fired right up like it was just shut off.
Mine also did the clicking and the light only stayed on for a couple of seconds. I thought the same thing about the controller and all gp tested good.
Try gp and go from there.
Mine also did the clicking and the light only stayed on for a couple of seconds. I thought the same thing about the controller and all gp tested good.
Try gp and go from there.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
There has been a lot of reports where autolites only worked for one or two days.
I would suggest if they are allready shot removine them before they swell.
It could be that your ford doesn't like your handle.lol..
I would suggest if they are allready shot removine them before they swell.
It could be that your ford doesn't like your handle.lol..
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
When I put the engine in mine I was cheap and bought Bosch plugs. I never tested them just put them in and wouldn't you know it all 8 were dead. I went to KOI (Kentucky Motors) and paid the $12 apiece for the motorcract plugs and haven't had a problem since. I don't have the controller hooked up just a monentary toggle. I only hold them on for a count of 8.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,623
Likes: 5,633
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i have never understood why people will spend upwards of $15 each for garbage glow plugs, when you can buy the proper plugs on ebal all bay long delivered to the house for less than $10 each.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
I got the Bosch plugs on ebay for $45 plus shipping. Was a real pian getting the guy to refund my money. He said that I must have put 120 volts ac to them. I told that that would be a real thing to see, a 12v dc system putting out that 120 ac lol.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,623
Likes: 5,633
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
actually, i was refering to the guys that pay $15 for autolites and champion in an auto parts store, when they know M/B's are the good plugs, and are cheaper on ebay.
and then come on here a week later complaining that the expensive junk burnt out.
i guess they figure cause they cost more, they are better.
and then come on here a week later complaining that the expensive junk burnt out.
i guess they figure cause they cost more, they are better.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,025
Likes: 2,758
From: Virginia
Here is a picture, wrong glow plug system but close enough.
Look for the connector in the red circle.
You truck will have two large AWG yellow wires in one end of the connector where the one in the picture has large orange wires on the bottom end.
Examine the connector for any signs of melting or deformed plastic close to the yellow wires.
If the plug looks melted, you are going to have to splice the wires around the connector, the yellow wires are the power feed to the glow plug relay.
Caution if you do have to splice the wires, they are both hot at all times if the battery cables are on the batteries.
Now on the glow plug relay/controller there is a black ground wire.
Make sure it has a good electrical ground.
The new style glow plug controller uses resistance feedback to time the glow cycle.
And resistance in the power feed, the controller ground, or glow plugs out of resistance spec changes the glow time.
Optimum glow plug resistance is .5 to 1 ohm each.
Look for the connector in the red circle.
You truck will have two large AWG yellow wires in one end of the connector where the one in the picture has large orange wires on the bottom end.
Examine the connector for any signs of melting or deformed plastic close to the yellow wires.
If the plug looks melted, you are going to have to splice the wires around the connector, the yellow wires are the power feed to the glow plug relay.
Caution if you do have to splice the wires, they are both hot at all times if the battery cables are on the batteries.
Now on the glow plug relay/controller there is a black ground wire.
Make sure it has a good electrical ground.
The new style glow plug controller uses resistance feedback to time the glow cycle.
And resistance in the power feed, the controller ground, or glow plugs out of resistance spec changes the glow time.
Optimum glow plug resistance is .5 to 1 ohm each.