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Voltage Reg

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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Question Voltage Reg

Hi,
So how would i know if the voltage reg is bad? The reason I ask is my fuses seem to be getting 14.30 volts w/eng running to me it seems high, tho I dont check that part of the truck alot so i cant remeber LOL. All i wanted to do was hook up the choke to the reg. and that whole 14 pluse seemed way to high for a electric choke correct?
thanks
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by skunktruck
Hi,
So how would i know if the voltage reg is bad? The reason I ask is my fuses seem to be getting 14.30 volts w/eng running to me it seems high, tho I dont check that part of the truck alot so i cant remeber LOL. All i wanted to do was hook up the choke to the reg. and that whole 14 pluse seemed way to high for a electric choke correct?
thanks

14.3 volts sounds right to me... When the alternator is running you get the voltage above 12 volts..

The voltage regulators job is to maintain a constant voltage.. If the voltage is fluctuating up and down then I would suspect that..

You should be fine with the choke..
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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ok i was worried that anything over 12 was bad at the fuses. as for the choke it seems like the ground is getting very hot!!!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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The choke needs to run from the stator terminal of the alternator. It's marked with an 'S'. It's a 14 volt AC three phase signal. If you put your DC meter on it, it shows up at about 7 volts RMS. This is fine. You want to use this signal because it's only hot when the motor is turning.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:26 PM
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ok see it was hooked up there and of course it said 7 volts, and I laughed and said no you need 12 volts sigh so i should redo that?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by skunktruck
ok see it was hooked up there and of course it said 7 volts, and I laughed and said no you need 12 volts sigh so i should redo that?
No, you shouldn't. It's not saying 7 volts because anything is wrong. It's saying 7 volts because it is not a DC signal. It swings from zero volts to 14 volts, with many slopes in between. When you set your meter to DC and read it, it sees the low frequency components of the signal, which sit around 7 volts. You don't need to rewire anything; it's supposed to be this way. This is more than enough to heat up the choke. It came from the factory this way.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:41 PM
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ugh ok tomorrow i better redo it, lol
thanks alot
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by skunktruck
ugh ok tomorrow i better redo it, lol
thanks alot
I said not to change the factory wiring...unless I'm reading your post wrong? If you're saying you already changed it, then yes you need to switch it back to the factory setup.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:48 PM
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it was ran from the ALT this morning, and as i said i cut it and reconnected it to the volt reg. so if i understsnd correctly it needs to run from thr alt. correct?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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You need to undo what you did, and return it to the original factory setup. Disconnect the negative battery cable while you're working, and reconnect it while you're done.

In the future, ask questions first, cut wires later. You've essentially caused a lot of frustration for yourself over something that wasn't even wrong. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
 
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