Glow plug relay
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02-07-2009, 09:53 PM
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02-07-2009, 10:02 PM
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02-08-2009, 01:26 AM
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Every time the solenoid kicks I'm getting full system voltage.(Measured with volt meter). However it will seldom bring my test light to life. I was tempted to amp test it with my voltmeter but the fuses are so damn expensive that I didn't want to chance it. I think I'll throw a solenoid at it.
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02-08-2009, 04:24 PM
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Instead of AMP Testing
Rather than testing to see how much current is flowing thru the solenoid,
And
Rather than checking to see how much voltage is bring applied to the glow plugs, I would:
Put the volt meter RIGHT ACROSS THE SOLENOID. Put the negative lead on the downstream side of the solenoid and the positive lead to the side that goes to the battery. These are the 2 big terminals on the SOL.
What this will do is measure the voltage dropped across the contacts of the solenoid when it is energized/closed. The newer the SOL is, the lower the voltage drop is and the more voltage is available for the glow plugs. If the contacts are burned/pitted/corroded, the more voltage is dropped there, to the point where the contacts are so bad that all the voltage is dropped across them that there is nothing left for the plugs. Consequently, there is no current flowing to/thru the GPs.
If you pull the small wire off the coil so that the SOL does not energize/pull in/close/connect to allow current to flow, when you turn the key ON, it is the same as the contacts being burned out/open, you will see 12 volts across the SOL, which means it is an infinitely high resistance and no current flows. In other words, ALL the voltage is dropped across the contacts.
Ideally, the contacts have ZERO OHMS when they are together/energized so there is no voltage dropped across them.
This does not take an expensive meter, just one that has a low voltage scale, such as a 10, 12 or 15 volt scale. You have to be able to show something less than 5 volts and you will then be able to keep tabs on your solenoid.
Ideally, you will read less than half a volt across the contacts.
Hope this helps.
RoGrrr
And
Rather than checking to see how much voltage is bring applied to the glow plugs, I would:
Put the volt meter RIGHT ACROSS THE SOLENOID. Put the negative lead on the downstream side of the solenoid and the positive lead to the side that goes to the battery. These are the 2 big terminals on the SOL.
What this will do is measure the voltage dropped across the contacts of the solenoid when it is energized/closed. The newer the SOL is, the lower the voltage drop is and the more voltage is available for the glow plugs. If the contacts are burned/pitted/corroded, the more voltage is dropped there, to the point where the contacts are so bad that all the voltage is dropped across them that there is nothing left for the plugs. Consequently, there is no current flowing to/thru the GPs.
If you pull the small wire off the coil so that the SOL does not energize/pull in/close/connect to allow current to flow, when you turn the key ON, it is the same as the contacts being burned out/open, you will see 12 volts across the SOL, which means it is an infinitely high resistance and no current flows. In other words, ALL the voltage is dropped across the contacts.
Ideally, the contacts have ZERO OHMS when they are together/energized so there is no voltage dropped across them.
This does not take an expensive meter, just one that has a low voltage scale, such as a 10, 12 or 15 volt scale. You have to be able to show something less than 5 volts and you will then be able to keep tabs on your solenoid.
Ideally, you will read less than half a volt across the contacts.
Hope this helps.
RoGrrr
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