Clay checked a while ago one is a 99.5 and another is an 02.

 

Difference in a van turbo and stock is basically just a larger A/R exhaust housing. That's it. The Garrett BB is a completely different ball game with a ball bearing center section...the turbine and compressor are different designs than the stockers.

Ported housing, like an ATS...virtually no advantage except perhaps a little better spoolup. I have no idea how it would hold up, but it would probably be fine. I ran one with my B Codes and it wasn't enough air for them, but they were probably flowing considerable more than what you're looking at. As for it holding up...fine as far as I know. I sold it to someone here and haven't heard anything of it since, so I assume it's fine.

 

Jeremy I am not going to be pushing 432 HP out of my motor heh that little van did put down some good numbers though. I am thinking about Casserly's Hybrids with conserative tuning so if I do decide to go bigger then I can. If it just helps with a better spool up then that is not worth 400 dollars at this time that could be my regulated return.

 

That's certainly not true, Jeremy. Mine was surging before I put the ATS on it -- not like traditional surge, but between gears and when I let off the throttle, it would make a HUGE "CHUFFFFFFA" sound, sometimes two or three. Also, I got a 2-3 psi bump in boost with the ATS, too. Went from 27ish with the stock housing to 29-30psi with the ATS. I've heard from others that I shouldn't see any more boost, or possibly even lose a little. I gained some!! And no more "CHUFFFAAAA"s between gears...

 

Joe, what you are experiencing is not turbo surge. It's a turbo stall or near stall, or a bark as the air is burped back out the intake. When you're hard on the throttle, the the turbo has created a vacuum on the intake (pre-turbo) that's sucking in air at a high rate into the turbo. When you let off or the trans shifts, that incoming air hits a wall as engine RPM drops and the air is forced back out the intake, around the compressor wheel, as the turbo slows down. All turbos can do this to some extent and most will consider it pretty harmless, even if it does sound a little disconcerting.

It's not surge though. Surge is an instantaneous reversal of airflow that occurs as boost increases at a fixed airflow, which is not what's happening when you change gears or let off the throttle since airflow changes.

Interesting results on the increase in boost with the ATS.

 

I would say you had more fuel than air from what I saw, like you said. I now have more air than the fuel I am throwing at it due to conservative tuning at my request for the PMRs.

I have the 1.15 housing on my 38R, and I know that is what makes the diff. Think about why the van turbo can do what it does without a IC. Now throw an IC into the equation. Bummer the VT begins to sign off above 400. That is design, it will never get better as Jeremy pointed out.

 

Jeremy is right, it's turbo stall. It might seem fun, but mine gets annoying.. When i am into it with the TC unlocked, and let out of the throttle, it stalls about 7-8 times, sounds badass but i know its not good on the shaft.

 

What turbo are you currently running on your truck now Kris?

 

thanks Jeremy..guess i should have checked in on this a little sooner..i did the 1.00 exhaust housing..i should have held out for a 1.15..would it still be worth going that rout?? or is there not much diffs between the 2?? lm hitting 32 psi easly and she stays pegged there with the wast gate hooked and WW in there.. my turbo was just about brand new when i got it..its not a rebuild..like 3000 miles on it if that..

 

Ron, you're at a place where you could go either way, but I would almost consider changing it. The efficiency range of the turbo is what has me thinking that. A stocker is good up to about 25 psi and a van turbo up to around 35 psi, which is where it's been tested to show a 1:1 boost to drive pressure ratio. Past 35 psi on a van turbo and drive pressure goes up, indicating a loss in efficiency. With a 1.0 housing being smack in the middle of a stocker an a van, I would hypothesize that it's most efficient up to about 30 psi, although I have no data to back that.

Assuming that a 1.0 housing is good up to about 30 psi before the drive pressure goes way up, you'd be just past that range. Is it enough to worry about? I think that would depend mostly on how much time the turbo spends at or above 30 psi. If it's frequently there, I would put the larger housing on.

You'll want to keep the drive pressure in check though. Too much drive pressure will destroy the turbo. It eats the thrust bearing and washer, which can really tear up some parts to the point you can't repair them. You've seen my blown turbo album on webshots?

Click here:

 

Yeah, I know it wasn't "normal" surge, which is why I said what I said. It's the surge sound, but not surge. Y'all know what I mean... However, with the ATS, I'm not getting that noise anymore, which is a good thing. It was REALLY bad with the stock housing. But I digress -- I'd still put either the WW or the ATS on, just for that reason. I never tried the WW with the stock housing on the van turbo, so I'm not sure where he'll end up going that way.

 

There was a guy on TDS several years ago, who had a van turbo and with it he tested every combination of stock wheel with both the stock compressor housing and ATS compressor housing, then the WW with both housings. He found the best performance with a stock wheel and ATS housing, although he indicated to me that the only difference between stock and ATS housing was slightly quicker spool with the ATS. He did say that the stock wheel performed better than the WW in both combinations though.

Personally, I never did try the stock vs ATS housing on a van turbo, so I can't speak from personal experience. Joe's results show that the ATS housing can do more than just quicken the spool though.

If you wanted to put the ATS housing on, I would run the stock wheel and housing, while saving up for the ATS housing and swap the housing later. If the turbo stall is really bad and you're worried about it damaging the turbo, you could try the WW and see if it helps. I would at least try the stock wheel first. Every truck is different and your's may not stall as bad as others.

 

Good points, Jeremy. I knew I was getting the ATS, so that's why I went with the stock wheel/stock housing combo. Tell you what though -- it was bad enough that I was tempted to put the WW back on. The ATS was an EXCELLENT investment, and I highly recommend it if anyone reading this is on the fence about it.

 

Joe and I are never going to agree on this...

While annoying, I don't think the turbo stall on a shift or when letting off the throttle is damaging. It may get annoying and may sound like it's hurting something, but I don't think it's really hurting...remember that the exhaust is no longer being delivered at the same rate and the whole shaft speed is slowing down.

In JD's case, he's debating whether to get an ATS housing or a fuel system, which is basically the same cost. If it were me, I would at least run the stock wheel and housing combo first, to try it out, see how it performs, etc. If the stall is bad enough that he feels like something is going to break if it doesn't stop, then spend the money on the ATS housing. However, if it only occasionally goes into stall and doesn't sound that bad, then spend the money on the fuel system first, as I think it will give more overall benefit.

I'm not saying the ATS can't/doesn't/won't make a difference and help. I'm just not sure that, in JD's case, I would be all that concerned with getting it right off the bat, when the debate is between that and a fuel system.

Just my two cents...probably worth about three-quarter's of a cent in today's economy.

 

Yeah, I'm tracking......

For some reason, I seem to be having problems saying what I mean tonight. I'm not even drinkin'!!

Definitely try the stock housing/wheel first. But I do remember a similar discussion with Gene, and his suspicion was that the "stall" was a form of surge (which is where I probably came up with using that term LOL), and not good on the turbo, but possibly not as bad a full-on surge. What you say makes sense to me, but I don't think the pressures are instantaneously released when shifting or the throttle is let up. That's why I think it's still not good on the turbo -- I wouldn't call it harmless. No expert here, but I would think there is some extra stress put on it when it's making that noise.

Also, I would also suggest you at least take a look at the CCK (Cross Connect Kit) from Dino Fuel Alternatives if you're looking to save a few bucks. I'm running that, and I figure with the Walbro pump, I'll have PLENTY of pressure & volume once I go to the bigger sticks. In fact, that's my next mod.