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I've decided on removing my Egr valve from my 96 F150 5.0 efi engine since it broke at the flex part of the tube while removing it. The dealer's price here in quebec (Canada) for the tube alone is 240 bucks
After reading a few threads on Egr bypassing by eliminating it with caps, I decided that would be the cheapest way to go. I understand the idea of capping the throttle body and intake manifold but I have no idea what to do with the DPFE sensor and the green tube connecting to at the top of the egr valve. Do I completely remove the dpfe electrical connector?
Go to this web page. They have everything you need to do it right. I have not used this product, so I cannot guarentee it will not cause any CEL problems, but I have thought about it.
No, you need to get an EGR eliminator plug. They sell them here at RJM Injection Tech EGR Eliminators even though they say it is for a Mustang, the 5.0 engine is the same, whether for a pickup or car. They sell both the EGR eliminator plate, and the plug to fool the computer into thinking you still have an EGR.
If you want to try to get an EGR somewhere else, try ACDelco and Motorcraft Auto Parts - OE Parts Headquarters -. They are a company based out of St. Louis, USA that sells OE parts for cheaper than getting it from any stealership.....Been ordering from them for a couple years and haven't had any problems. Let me know if this helps
You do not NEED to buy anything. I removed my EGR system when i went with LT headers. I left the valve in place, just capped off the bottom of it w/ a piece of a beer can. Has worked great for 4 years this way, no cel yet
No, you need to get an EGR eliminator plug. They sell them here at RJM Injection Tech EGR Eliminators even though they say it is for a Mustang, the 5.0 engine is the same, whether for a pickup or car. They sell both the EGR eliminator plate, and the plug to fool the computer into thinking you still have an EGR.
If you want to try to get an EGR somewhere else, try ACDelco and Motorcraft Auto Parts - OE Parts Headquarters -. They are a company based out of St. Louis, USA that sells OE parts for cheaper than getting it from any stealership.....Been ordering from them for a couple years and haven't had any problems. Let me know if this helps
Good luck trying to find the flex pipe new from anyone but Ford. I broke mine when installing my headers. Broke at the flex point just like yours. I could not find a new one from anyone but Ford for a reasonable price. I ended up welding mine back together. If you can weld good, that would probably work. Mine was rusty as hell and the tubing is real thin, so welding it is not fun, but mine is not leaking and I welded it six or seven months ago.
No, you need to get an EGR eliminator plug. They sell them here at RJM Injection Tech EGR Eliminators even though they say it is for a Mustang, the 5.0 engine is the same, whether for a pickup or car. They sell both the EGR eliminator plate, and the plug to fool the computer into thinking you still have an EGR.
If you want to try to get an EGR somewhere else, try ACDelco and Motorcraft Auto Parts - OE Parts Headquarters -. They are a company based out of St. Louis, USA that sells OE parts for cheaper than getting it from any stealership.....Been ordering from them for a couple years and haven't had any problems. Let me know if this helps
Good luck trying to find the flex pipe new from anyone but Ford. I broke mine when installing my headers. Broke at the flex point just like yours. I could not find a new one from anyone but Ford for a reasonable price. I ended up welding mine back together. If you can weld good, that would probably work. Mine was rusty as hell and the tubing is real thin, so welding would be difficult with a wire-feed machine, but mine is not leaking and I welded it six or seven months ago. I used a TIG welder, would have been harder with wire-feed.
searching local junkyards is a good place to find them if you still want to keep the tube and EGR (i forgot you just broke the tube), just take a can of WD 40 or penetrating oil of your choice and give it a good soaking a day or so in advance.
Will the EGR eliminator harness plug that was mentioned for the 5.0 work on my 7.5? I've tried ohming mine out after reading the section on it in my chilton manual, and couldn't get the right amount of resistance. When I read on the site that it was only 20 bucks, I'd buy it if I knew that it would work.
The DPFE system is more complicated than the regular EGR and impossible to cleanly eliminate, you will always have a CEL if any part of it is disconnected. The simplest thing would be to put a blockoff plate between the valve and intake(any flat piece of metal will work)but leave the electrical and vacuum lines connected until you can source a replacement tube, at least the motor will run smoothly.
I have used the RJM eliminator.. It was a nice kit the block off plate is polished alum... I think it had 2 plates..so it fis diferant intakes...comes with the brass plug..The only thing i had Questions about was the plug that you plug into the wiring harness that tells the computer everthing is cool...we were working on the truck the next day standing there & heard it pop....dont know why...but we just left it be because we were going to tune the computer anyway... they just took it out of the computer...
Sorry about the double post earlier. I was trying to edit and something weird happened.
How bad of shape is your tube in? If you are a decent welder, you might be able to weld it and use that until you can find a new one. That was my intention when I welded mine, but I have not had any problems with it, so I have not got a replacement.
Thanks for the replies guys. Ya I can weld it back together again with a mig, but there's just 1 problem, as I was removing the fuel rail today I decided on breaking the Egr tube even more to clear out the injectors wiring harness. I was sure that I wouldn't be needing it anymore after I've seen the eliminator kit for the system. But as I was reading Conanski's post I was like reguarding the DPFE system that has 2 hoses from the egr tube.
So if I leave the tubes disconnected and the electrical clip on, will the CEL be the only thing affected from this or will the truck run like . I don't mind sticking a piece of black electric tape over the CEL, lmao.