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97 front end thunks -- causes?

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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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97 front end thunks -- causes?

First post here--
I have a faithful '97 F 150 4x4 with about 110K on the clock. The front end has developed a noise like a thunking in the last few months. Seems to be more on the driver's side but I can't say for sure. The mileage has been virtually all on road, under pretty normal conditions. No extreme off road stuff and no really rough roads often. What are your guesses as to the most likely cause(s)? I replaced shocks a couple of years ago, as well as the squeaky idler, but otherwise it's all original up front.

Also, the truck has an erratic miss at idle sometimes, and runs noticeably rough when the tach is in the low-to-mid teens. The engine light is on, but the guy at Autozone couldn't offer much help after checking codes.

Any help appreciated!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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Welcome to FTE Blue97! Could be ball joints or a broken anti-sway bar end link. There are other possibilities too but these seem most likely.

With the miss, how long since the plugs were replaced? Have AZ run the codes again and let us know what they are. There are guys on here that can offer real advice instead of the lame parts sales job that the parts jockey at AZ gives you. Good luck!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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John--
Thanks for the response. The plugs were replaced less than 20k ago. I did find a hole melted in the rubber PCV hose so I replaced that a couple weeks ago. The miss is still there. Until recently, I didn't drive the truck much anymore. However, since a 19 y.o. driver lost control of her Saturn on the highway and hit me, rolling me and totaling my "baby"' an 06 Mustang GT, the truck has become my daily driver again. I've decided to wait a while before replacing the Stang, so I want the truck in tip-top shape.

I forgot that I had written down the error codes (before replacement of the PCV valve and hose) They were: P-1131, P-1151, P-1071, and P-0174.

The end links aren't broken. I should add that on good roads, there is no noise. But if you hit rippled pavement you can hear the noise. Somehow it seems more noticeable when the wheel is dropping into a low spot rather than when it hits a bump. Then again, I could be imagining that.
 

Last edited by Blue97; Feb 5, 2009 at 04:52 PM. Reason: addition
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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Well that leaves the ball joints as still a possible for the clunk and getting the DTC read at AZ. Sorry to hear about the Stang. .I gave up on Stangs years ago after I totaled two, a `65 coupe and a `66 fastback. Decided that Ford would be better off if they and I parted ways after that.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue97
The end links aren't broken. I should add that on good roads, there is no noise. But if you hit rippled pavement you can hear the noise. Somehow it seems more noticeable when the wheel is dropping into a low spot rather than when it hits a bump. Then again, I could be imagining that.
Lift your tires off the ground and check for any play up/down and side to side. Up down will indicate worn ball joints, and side to side will indicate steering linkage (tie rods, idler arm, and pitman arm)....otherwise, crank the bolts (lower) on your shocks. Mine made a slight clunk just like yours, and it happened after I replaced my shocks too.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by xtrford
Up down will indicate worn ball joints,

And or the hub and bearing assembly.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron W.
And or the hub and bearing assembly.
And then you would be in a world of hurt...especially the wallet.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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Thanks for the replies, but all the codes were generated before I replaced the EGR (PCV) valve and hose. How long does it take to clear up old codes...if ever? In other words, if I have the codes read now, how will I know they are current, not from an old condition?

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm old school. I used to do all my own work until cars became computerized. I can deal with carburetors. I don't do computers and sensors!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 06:11 AM
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Most scan tools have the ability to clear codes or disconnect the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 04:20 PM
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If you had a vacuum leak in the PCV system, that would give the lean codes.
 
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