2005 Plug NIGHTMARE!!
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
2005 Plug NIGHTMARE!!
Well, after reading several posts from here, and reviewing the RSB on how to change plugs on my 2005 Expedition, I decided to give it a try.
2005 Expedition 5.4L 3 valve, 72k miles
Well, I got the first one out without much issue. Definately harder than a typical change, but adding the penetraiting oil was a big help.
Second one started well, and was acting like the first. Upon removal, it was only the top of the plug. the shield and the ceramic were still in the head. I put the thing back together and took it to the dealership.
They informed me they have to remove the body, or the engine to get them out.
$1,500 is the estimate!!!!
BULLS#*@!!!
Any thoughts?
Eric.
2005 Expedition 5.4L 3 valve, 72k miles
Well, I got the first one out without much issue. Definately harder than a typical change, but adding the penetraiting oil was a big help.
Second one started well, and was acting like the first. Upon removal, it was only the top of the plug. the shield and the ceramic were still in the head. I put the thing back together and took it to the dealership.
They informed me they have to remove the body, or the engine to get them out.
$1,500 is the estimate!!!!
BULLS#*@!!!
Any thoughts?
Eric.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: SC
$1500 is a rip! Stupid stealerships....
Not to sound ignorant but what exactly do you mean by "top of the plug"? Do you mean the little metal knobby thing, or the body? I'm confused b/c you said the ceramic was still in there, which to me is the body of the plug. If the body is still in there I would think you could still get it out. I found that using a regular socket worked better than a plug socket b/c it was easier to feel that it actually had a hold of the plug base. Does that make sense?
Not to sound ignorant but what exactly do you mean by "top of the plug"? Do you mean the little metal knobby thing, or the body? I'm confused b/c you said the ceramic was still in there, which to me is the body of the plug. If the body is still in there I would think you could still get it out. I found that using a regular socket worked better than a plug socket b/c it was easier to feel that it actually had a hold of the plug base. Does that make sense?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Hey Kitty,
On the 5.4, the plug has a very long electrode and a "shield" that extends a ways below the threads into the cylinder. So the hex part of the body came out fine, but the shield and the electrode were still in there.
The problem is that I none of my local shops were very familiar with this issue. Only one seemed to understand, but didn't have the tools, and told me they had not performed the replacement before. The dealership knew immediately what was happening. The difference in the labor rate was $92 (dealer) $75 (repair shop). for the $100 - $150 difference, I would prefer to have the dealer do it.
My complaint is that Ford hasn't acknowledged this is an issue, other than to post a TSB on it. I am going to call and file a complaint just in case they decide to do something.
The sad part is that between my Taurus having tranny problems, and the Expedition having this, I may not buy another Ford. I am that furious about it.
Thanks for listening.
Eric.
On the 5.4, the plug has a very long electrode and a "shield" that extends a ways below the threads into the cylinder. So the hex part of the body came out fine, but the shield and the electrode were still in there.
The problem is that I none of my local shops were very familiar with this issue. Only one seemed to understand, but didn't have the tools, and told me they had not performed the replacement before. The dealership knew immediately what was happening. The difference in the labor rate was $92 (dealer) $75 (repair shop). for the $100 - $150 difference, I would prefer to have the dealer do it.
My complaint is that Ford hasn't acknowledged this is an issue, other than to post a TSB on it. I am going to call and file a complaint just in case they decide to do something.
The sad part is that between my Taurus having tranny problems, and the Expedition having this, I may not buy another Ford. I am that furious about it.
Thanks for listening.
Eric.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 208
Likes: 7
You after hearing all of this crap and other horror stories I think I will let the dealer do this. Hell I change motors in my Corvette and will do all other maintenance and repairs but this crap is not funny at all.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
I agree with you guy's. If I would have realized the cost, I would have drove until 100 -120k miles then had the plugs changed by the dealer. At lease then you would only pay the $1500 once.
They did say that after they install the new plugs with Anti-seize, they have not had another problem.
I will keep you posted on how it goes.
Eric.
They did say that after they install the new plugs with Anti-seize, they have not had another problem.
I will keep you posted on how it goes.
Eric.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Here's an update: They did remove the Cab in order to access the plugs. The tech broke 7 of the 8 plugs! Because he removed the cab, he may have not followed the procedure, not sure. $1600 total.
Oh, did I mention the window regulators need to be replaced? They lubed them but it made the situation worse, so that will be another $500, and the rear wiper pivot needs to be replaced for another $250!
I am really beginning to hate Ford!
Eric.
Oh, did I mention the window regulators need to be replaced? They lubed them but it made the situation worse, so that will be another $500, and the rear wiper pivot needs to be replaced for another $250!
I am really beginning to hate Ford!
Eric.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Yep. They told me removing the cab was easier than removing the heads or the engine. They said it was common for them.
That to me, is a problem, when it's common to remove the cab to perform maintenance, something is wrong.
Eric
That to me, is a problem, when it's common to remove the cab to perform maintenance, something is wrong.
Eric
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 872
From: Foothills of NC
The window regulators are about $130.00 each, and can be changed in about an hour if you are mechanical.
I wrote a full post with pics, but the pics were deleted. The regulators are made of cheap plastic with cables. It is designed to fail.
Whatever you do, do not try to lower your windows if there is a chance of them being frozen or stuck. The cable will jump off the spool and ruin the whole regulator.
And Ford wonders what they are in the shape they are in. I just sold my Expy after 7 months on the market.
Here is the post detailing how to change the regulator, but no pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...regulator.html
I wrote a full post with pics, but the pics were deleted. The regulators are made of cheap plastic with cables. It is designed to fail.
Whatever you do, do not try to lower your windows if there is a chance of them being frozen or stuck. The cable will jump off the spool and ruin the whole regulator.
And Ford wonders what they are in the shape they are in. I just sold my Expy after 7 months on the market.
Here is the post detailing how to change the regulator, but no pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...regulator.html
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 37
From: Central NYS
They may call it "removing the cab", but in essance what they do is disconnect the driveshaft and all the engine connections and lower the engine and suspension out the bottom. Now they have some room to work on the engine.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
PDQ, in this case, they actually removed the body from the chasis. They had to reconnect everything, bleed the breaks, re fill coolant, etc.
yardbird, thank you for the post. Any idea where to get the regulators other than the dealer?
yardbird, thank you for the post. Any idea where to get the regulators other than the dealer?
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
To take the plugs out, they had to remove the body from the Chassis?