Hey guys, am slowly massing parts for a mild 351W build, and im kinda getting in over my head. Let me tell you what my plans are, and what ive picked up so far. Can you all tell me if things will work nicely, or am i in for a world of disappointment.

Truck is an 89 F250 4x4 ZF 5 speed 33" streets, 38" Swampers, Used as mud truck, pull truck, street racer, workhorse, pretty much anything you can do in/to a truck, i do with this one.

Planned on picking up stock shortblock rebuild off ebay

Have:
Edelbrock Performer intake
Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb
Comp Cams Extreme 4x4 cam P/N 249-35-239-3
Lift: .493''/.512''
Duration: 262°/270°
RPM Range: 1400-5500
Hooker Comp LT Headers w/ 2.5" true dual exhaust & single chamber mufflers

Thinking:
High flow oil pump, stock pan
Mallory fuel pressure regulator, P/N 4309
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads PN TFS-51400002

And here is where i get in over my head. I have no idea how to select the correct valvetrain componants for this head, I dont even know all the variables to expect. Looking for rocker arms, pushrod length, etc. Will i need tall or short valve covers? How will these heads work with my cam? Did i pick the correct cam? When i chose this one i was pretty much looking at rpm range, Dont really want to go above 5500 on the tach. Thanks for any and all input guys, I want to learn as much as possible before i start spending the big bucks.

 

That combo will rock, you don't need a high volume oil pump though, it will just put additional load on the pump driveshaft and rob horsepower, stock pump is plenty. Pushrod length is impossible to say, depends if the block is machined, what rockers you choose, etc. Best bet is to get a pushrod length checker and see what the motor needs, those heads have stud mount rockers I bet so there is some adjustment range but you want the tip of the rocker in the middle of the valve stem. If you search around you should find adjustment procedures for stud rockers.

 

Thanks for the input so far, any tips on choosing rockers?

 

For stud mount rockers on this head, do i need to buy studs to install, or will they already be in the head? Ive decided to go w/ comp cams steel roller rockers 1.6 ratio.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/1442-16/10001/-1

 

Check what size studs your heads of choice will come with, no good having 3/8 rockers if the studs are 7/16.. or vise versa. FWIW my Dart heads came with ARP studs and guide plates.

 

Thanks. Speaking of my head of choice, Do you know if twisted wedge heads need special pistons? I was planning on going with a stock rebuild, but now on the other thread someone said they do, and stock wont work...

 

The valves in the TW heads are rotated or twisted a bit.. meaning the intake and exhaust valves are not all in a straight line across the head, that's the source of the name. As a result they require unique pistons with matching offset valve notches when large cams are used.

 

With the cam i have listed, do you think i will need the different pistons? Sorry about all the questions, but this is all new to me. Ive never really delt with performance engine parts before. All my experience has been stock replacement.

 

If it were my motor I'd have the right pistons in there, and even then it's a really good idea to mount a head and test for valve clearance. The cam you have selected has relatively short duration but the valves are big so there's a real possibility of clearance problems. It's impossible to say for sure now because every motor is slightly different, but why take the chance, and why not build in room for 1.7 rockers or more cam down the road.

 

I suppose... Problem is this is WAY over my head as far as choosing the right parts. I was going to go with a stock short block because then i didnt need to worry about putting all that together. If i go with trick flow pistons, will they work with stock pins & rods? Or do i need to then get everything down to the crank? Kinda got me worried now

 

just drop a 460 in it and call it a day!

 

Yeah... Um... No...

 

I have the TF heads. When I put them on my 351 I checked the valve clearance w/ clay strips on the pistons and mocked a head on w/the gasket installed and a solid roller lifter.I had to clearance the pistons for the intake valve a little w/ a valve notching tool that basicly is a valve w/ cutters on it.That is why a good valve spring compressor comes in handy, because you have to put it in 8 times .But the roller cam I`m using has .589 lift and the block is shaved so you might be OK but you still need to clay it to make sure you have .080 clearance on the intake and .100 on the exhaust.P.S. the springs on those heads are good for .540 I think

 

is the .080 and .100 the min specs between valve and piston with piston up and valve open? How do you "clay it?"

 

yep, it`s a pain the butt. You have to put some clay on the piston tops, then put the head on and torque it to 30lb,then put the rocker on,then turn it by hand, then take the head off,etc,etc. After all that I just got the pistons for the heads when I dropped the 3.85 stroke crank in it.But you`ll probably be OK