Door Locks Not Working
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Door Locks Not Working
I recently changed out the doors on my ‘99 E-350 cargo van. I replaced them with doors from a ’92 E-150 conversion van. The power windows work fine and the power mirrors work one direction each (I imagine that that is just bad motors but I’m not concerned with the mirrors right now). However the power doors do not lock or unlock from either switch. I have pulled the switch from the driver’s side and it has power going into it and when I activate the switch it gets power coming out from it. I did not hook up the wiring harness to the side or rear doors. What do I need to do to find the problem?
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From: Blue Springs, MO
If I do have voltage at the actuator or if I don't have voltage at the actuator???
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From: Central Florida
You should also check for ground on the actuator. Ford typically uses a switch that rocks between power and ground. If the switch doesn't have a ground, then the actuator doesn't have a complete circuit. I am not so sure if it applies to the 92, but I've seen it back to 98.
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From: Virginia
You should also check for ground on the actuator. Ford typically uses a switch that rocks between power and ground. If the switch doesn't have a ground, then the actuator doesn't have a complete circuit. I am not so sure if it applies to the 92, but I've seen it back to 98.
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From: Blue Springs, MO
I had someone tell me that all of the lock switches have to be conected for any of them to work. Is this correct? The wireing harness for my side doors is not connected.
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From: Virginia
I believe that's correct. The passenger side locks and windows power goes through the driver's side switch assembly.
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Okay I wired in the side doors. (Now the dome lights come on when I open the side doors.) When I check the wiring going into the actuators with a test light (connected to a known good ground) it lights up on both wires on all four connectors when I push the lock/unlock button on the drivers side. The test light does not light up when I use the passenger side button. I tried changing the drivers side and passenger side switches but that did not change anything. I did notice (after I switched the switches) that with the test light attached to a good ground and testing the drivers door lock wires, when I pushed the drivers side switch the actuator in the rear door hummed. (I did not notice it locking just making noise -each way- for about 10-15 seconds)
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From: Virginia
Do not use a "known good ground" when testing the actuators. Put one lead of the tester on one of the actuator wires, and the ground lead on the other wire for the test. There is really no permanent "ground" on the actuators. For unlock, one wire will be hot, the other ground or negative. For lock, the wires will be swapped by the switches, the the hot will be the other wire, and the negative the other.
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From: Blue Springs, MO
I did that and did not get any reading with the multi-meter or test light thats why I went with the "known good ground"
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From: Virginia
If you are getting nothing across the actuator wires, that's why the actuators are not working. Did the harness just plug in from the 92 to the 99? The 99 I am pretty sure uses a GEM module. I am not sure on the 92. Could you use the wiring and stuff from the 99 and install it in the 92 doors?
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From: Blue Springs, MO
The original '99 doors were manual locks, windows and mirrors. The only wires they had were the speaker wires. The wiring harnesses from the '92 doors plugged right into the van’s original wiring harness.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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From: Blue Springs, MO
I am wondering why; when the test light (hooked to the known good ground) lights when I use the driver's side switch but not the switch on the passenger’s side?
I am assuming that because I get no power unless I am grounded that there is also something wrong with the circuit. Where should I look to find that problem?
I am assuming that because I get no power unless I am grounded that there is also something wrong with the circuit. Where should I look to find that problem?
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From: Virginia
Here is the schematics for the 99 door locks.
http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/z...5280254147.gif
Autozone is changing their site, so that link may work or not work. One thing I did notice, the front power door lock switches run through the rear door switches before they get to the locks. If you don't have rear door lock switches, then that may be the missing link.
http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/z...5280254147.gif
Autozone is changing their site, so that link may work or not work. One thing I did notice, the front power door lock switches run through the rear door switches before they get to the locks. If you don't have rear door lock switches, then that may be the missing link.