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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 01:36 AM
  #1  
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Needs more power!

Whats the best way to get more power out or a 99 F250 V10 for a reasonible price??
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 06:49 AM
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From: TEXAS
What kind of power are you looking for? Towing, Go Fast Race car, Seat of the Pants or Dyno sheet.
Towing: Rear end change to 4:30

Go Fast Race Car: Ain't going to happen, at least for reasonible. Too heavy, was never
intented to be a fast truck...just a dependable work horse of a truck.

Seat of the pants: Exhaust, K&N drop in filter......small HP gains, sounds great under
acceleration, which seems to translate into Seat of the Pants HP gains.

Dyno Sheet: Equal all of the above, (except the rear end ratio...no Dyno gain) then add Y-pipe, header system, free flow exhaust system, K&N or CAI system, a good computer tune from the sponsor of this forum, tune up, clean the MAF.

I'm sure someone will come along and add to the list..shortly.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 06:52 AM
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Replace the Y pipe, drop in air filter, exhaust, and a tuner and that’s about it without going forced induction, try searching
gears could work to.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:10 AM
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Dyno Sheet: Equal all of the above, (except the rear end ratio...no Dyno gain)
Steeper gears will put more power to the ground which will show up on the dyno.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:47 AM
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Junkyard PI heads and intake, gears, ebay headers, tuner...
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by dkf
Steeper gears will put more power to the ground which will show up on the dyno.
From what I have seen and heard, throwing numerically higher gears in will hurt power.

I have the same truck, a '99 F250 with the V10 (only mod is from the PO, a K&N filter) and I'm actually very happy with its performance. The truck pulls well, especially at lower RPM. Even staying under 3000 RPM and half throttle the truck feels better than my dads '06 Cummins Ram 2500.

It is far from a race car, and like stated above a full exhaust from headers back, tune and cold air kit is about the best your going to do on the "cheap". I think one of these motors with a Kenne Bell would be a ton of fun, but thats also $$$.

Good luck with it, and if you mod, let us know how it does.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:14 AM
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I just got a set of Thorley headers for my X. I am going to run the X on the dyno stock then install the headers to see what actual hp numbers I get. I will post results in a couple weeks to show my findings.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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I am not an expert and just learning about these trucks my self but since he has the 99 doesn't that mean that he does not have the restrictive Y pipe like the 2001+ years and the gains of power would not be that great with using the ebay Y pipe?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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I don't know if the 99 has the reterded y pipe or not? I know mine does.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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ive already put in a K&N Filter and a Superchips Tuner. Ive been lookin a Throttle body and Throttle body spacers? those really work like they do on the old carb motors??? ive also though about a cold air system.... ive also thought about short pipe headers?
only prob i have a few studs broke off... it seems that it could be a pain in the *** too change without pullin the motor...
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Wopstar
I just got a set of Thorley headers for my X. I am going to run the X on the dyno stock then install the headers to see what actual hp numbers I get. I will post results in a couple weeks to show my findings.

Looking forward to it!!!

You say your 99 has the crimped T pipe? Strange. I thought all '99's had the doubled back ramshorn....
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 01:14 PM
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Short tube headers are useless for a normal application. You will lose a lot of low end torque. Mid to long tube are the only headers I would buy. Broken studs could be a pain but you should be able to get them our from underneath.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by wolfrum
ive already put in a K&N Filter and a Superchips Tuner. Ive been lookin a Throttle body and Throttle body spacers? those really work like they do on the old carb motors??? ive also though about a cold air system.... ive also thought about short pipe headers?
only prob i have a few studs broke off... it seems that it could be a pain in the *** too change without pullin the motor...
Spacer? NO!
New TB? Maybe at high rpm.

Short headers? Some gain maybe. Depending on who you ask....

Last cheapy: Replace the snorkel on the front of your airbox. The part that goes through the front bulkhead. Stock is only about 2.25" ID.
I pulled the snorkel off a 2006 motorhome airbox that used the 3V engine. That snorkel is 3.5" ID. Glued it onto my airbox with JB Weld and cut away stock box until they blended.

After that, if you want higher rpm hp, you really should upgrade to 2000+ PI heads, cams, and intake manifold. The pre-PI is designed to be a grunter and runs out of breathe earlier. Or trade in for a 2005+ 3V. As generations go on, the engine breathes deeper and makes more peak power.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Wopstar
I just got a set of Thorley headers for my X. I am going to run the X on the dyno stock then install the headers to see what actual hp numbers I get. I will post results in a couple weeks to show my findings.
I got the Thorleys on my F-250 for over a year now. Look forward to your results.

I don't know if the 99 has the reterded y pipe or not? I know mine does.
You should have the Y-pipe that looks like a rams horn.(What many call it)
Y Pipe Info : SPD Performance

From what I have seen and heard, throwing numerically higher gears in will hurt power.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I just don't see how thats possible. There is a big difference in performance between 3:73s and 4:30s. You basically putting more torque to the ground with 4:30s vs 3:73s and allowing the engine to gain rpm faster which should also increase hp at the wheels. Power numbers at the crank are untouched though. Hopefully Mike from Five Star can comment to what hes found.

only prob i have a few studs broke off... it seems that it could be a pain in the *** too change without pullin the motor...
If you remove the front shocks and upper mounts and remove the fender liners you will have a pretty clear shot to the manifolds through the wheel wells.

Last cheapy: Replace the snorkel on the front of your airbox. The part that goes through the front bulkhead. Stock is only about 2.25" ID.

I pulled the snorkel off a 2006 motorhome airbox that used the 3V engine. That snorkel is 3.5" ID. Glued it onto my airbox with JB Weld and cut away stock box until they blended.
A similar mod applies to many other Ford vehicles. I read an article where they removed the stock airbox snorkel on an 04' 150 4.6l and made before and after dyno pulls. They picked up 5rwtq for $0.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Wopstar
Short tube headers are useless for a normal application. You will lose a lot of low end torque. Mid to long tube are the only headers I would buy. Broken studs could be a pain but you should be able to get them our from underneath.
Untrue. Any header will flow better than the factory log manifold.

I have shorties on mine. Good gains and it sounds much better. I lost zero low end. If anything, I gained.
 
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