I've seen one in a magazine like E william. The slot side was the same as his. The door side was stainless steel or chromed steel tube bent like the braided line in E william's. Bent like a banana. They took the tube and attached to the door by welding a washer to the tube and placed it inside the door to mount and stablize the tube. The washer was attached by a spot welds or screws, etc. The tube moved across the slot as the door closed. Looked good. chuck

 

Very nicely done, looks good. Mankind’s ingenuity is triumphant over evil, Murphy, and the supernatural truck being for once, good to see.

 

My only modification would have been to mount a rubber or brush type dust seal behind the slotted plate.

 

You can check out my gallery to see the looms that I used. They are made for suicide doors but worked quite well for the application. In for almost a year with no problems.

 

Hi Shane, Your setup looks like it has plenty of room for movement...looks good. My original didnt have as much room so when the looms got cold this past winter they just folded and were never the same.
Ax, I like the dust shield idea...it can be easily added the the inner side of the door jam thru the kick paner area, thanks.
ED.

 

Could use a piece of inner tube with a slit cut in it or Possibly use the brush strip out of a vacuum cleaner nozzle to fab brushes.

 

Being one of the engineers on a local rescue squad, and tasked with keeping the wheels turning, we had three ambulances that used the stainless spring version of a wire loom, and have had numerous occasion where the spring broke free at the weld. Not wanting to duplicate this issue in a car I was working on, I tried to provide improvements that would also eliminate the maintenance issues I had seen in the past.

Excuse the fact that this was used on a tri five Chevy, I think the process will exchange well across the brands

The first version I did of the hinge wiring was done using 1/2 x 1/2 square tubing, and looking at the size, it was apparent there would be more room needed for wires to the driver's door. Rather than use tubing this time, I used some 16 ga steel bent into small angles. The cut into the hinge was increased from 1/2 to 5/8, and by using a three sided channel (hinge forms the back side) the room for wiring was increased 1-1/2 times. Hinge cleaned up, scribed, and then cut using .045 cutoff wheel in 4-1/2 grinder:








Looking at this next picture with the cut completed, you can see that the wires will dump inside the door, and on the other end are carried as close to the pivot point as possible, for less movement, less fatigue.




"Angle" pieces trimmed to fit opening, tacked in place, and heat applied to follow bends of the hinge:







Mig was used to tack weld and join the two halves, the tig was used to final weld the angles to the hinge. Then some grinding to smooth things out:











The first wire fed through was used as a pull wire, tied a knot into it and taped some sleeving tight on the other side of the knot to pull it through:







Then the same pull wire was stripped in the middle to pull the other wires through.



Installed, showing the hinge both open and closed with no chaffing issues:






Minimal wire movement = less headaches later


I'm also thinking of welding some type of clamp above the top of the hinge on the firewall to secure the bundle.

 

This has to be one of the coolest ways to handle door wiring I have ever seen. Nice Work!

 

Thanks! One other point to note, in the last picture notice the wire bundle continues through the hinge toward the outside of the firewall area, as this is the natural progression based on how it comes out of the hinge. Then it loops around top, back toward the center of the car and toward the fuse panel. Had it been forced toward the center of the firewall as it came out of the hinge, it would have bent the bundle over on itself, caused more movement, chaffing, etc. All things to look at no matter what method you choose for routing your door wiring.

 

MP&C
I have to use the word "Craftsmanship" on that one....That's some awesome finnish work there! The only problem I see is that it's been done on a Chebby...Naw, just kidding...
Awesome!
Just remember...Backyard Shop + Money + Imagination = Trouble with the Wife!!!
Later, Ed

 

MP&C; that was the single greatest thing i've seen all day(and i seen two dogs playin hump tag this mornin). great work!!!!!

 

MP&C,

that is super cool.. now to look at the ford hinges and see if it can be replicated.. the ford hinges are very thin in comparison..

sam

 

My 52 has the exposed hinges, so it won't work. I guess we need a 53 and up, correct? Is anyone close to Southern MD that wants to be a guinea pig candidate so we can do a tech thread specific to the Effies???

 

I am in Texas, but I think I have a couple extra hinges..

we also need to be able to address the one piece window kits that cut the hinge to door mounting arm.. pic attached
the new front channel bracket bolts to the new hole

Sam

 

Sam, if the wires were to dump out here between the hinge bolts, would that suffice? Not having a door here, it's hard to see the obstacles that may exist




Also, do you have any pics of the A pillar inside the hinge hole? Does it use bolts inside also (like the 55 chevy's in the picture above) or just the two outside holes only?