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Number Dummy gauge help

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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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Number Dummy gauge help

Bill;

I'm trying to verify the rated current of an ammeter I'm using for my F1 cluster gauge, but don't know the rated current value. I don't have the part# with me, but the ammeter came out of an '81 Econoline Van. I'm guessing the ammeter has a shunt resistor internally, and can handle up to 15 to 20 Amps.

Any ideas ?

Tom
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tip49
Bill; I'm trying to verify the rated current of an ammeter I'm using for my F1 cluster gauge, but don't know the rated current value. I don't have the part# with me, but the ammeter came out of an '81 Econoline Van. I'm guessing the ammeter has a shunt resistor internally, and can handle up to 15 to 20 Amps. Any ideas ? Tom
Sorry, parts catalogs do not list that info, so I haven't a clue...except the ammeter used on 1981 Econolines was used 1975/91.

Ask the question in the electrical forum, 85e150sixmtod or someone else might know.

You might P/M 85e150sixmtod for assistance. He lives in CA, and is listed on the CA member list around page 12.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Thanks Bill; I'll try what you suggested.

I plan on using the Econoline gauge; and want to ensure it will withstand the current draw it will see on the lighting circuit. The 1950 F1 stock ammeter was wired directly through a 30 Amp circuit breaker.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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Nope, different critter. A shunt ammeter really just a voltmeter calibrated to read in amps, and it is wired in parallel, rather then in series like an ammeter. Wiring it straight through (in series) will let the factory smoke out I think?

Smiles broken (insert smiley face here)
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Old F1
Nope, different critter. A shunt ammeter really just a voltmeter calibrated to read in amps, and it is wired in parallel, rather then in series like an ammeter. Wiring it straight through (in series) will let the factory smoke out I think?

Smiles broken (insert smiley face here )
You can turn the smilies off when you post.

But...there's been a FTE glitch over the past couple of days, and if you are affected, you cannot edit, you cannot add similies, color or do much of anything else.

When you type sentences, they all run together, and paragraphs are not defined.

Look at the bottom of the page at the left...does it say "Done, but with errors on page?" / Or is the icon yellow?

If so...this is what I went thru Sunday thru Tuesday.

The Quick Reply feature allows separate sentences and paragraphes, but if you are affected, you cannot edit or do anything else once the message is posted.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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Not to hijack (yeah, right) but if you press Ctrl & F5 at the same time it should solve those problems.



Carry on....
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:22 PM
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OK, maybe a different approach to this then. The '90 Crown Vic instrument cluster had an idiot light, which I'll have to trace back but I think it went to alternator. I will be using the '81 Econoline charge meter (voltmeter); which I would substitute where the idiot light wiring was? or will this affect the alternator by introducing a voltage drop in this circuit ?

Tom
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveBricks
Not to hijack (yeah, right) but if you press Ctrl & F5 at the same time it should solve those problems.Carry on....
Thank you, ....I mean thank you, ......no, .....I really mean thank you!

I did fix my home computer (finally) with this problem but lost all my saved add-on’s, this is much better, oh, and did I say thank you!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:45 PM
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Happy to help
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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[QUOTE=tip49;7074307]OK, maybe a different approach to this then. The '90 Crown Vic instrument cluster had an idiot light, which I'll have to trace back but I think it went to alternator. I will be using the '81 Econoline charge meter (voltmeter); which I would substitute where the idiot light wiring was? or will this affect the alternator by introducing a voltage drop in this circuit ?[/QUOTE

I’m not sure, I wouldn't think so, but if you wanted to be on the safe side if you can just wire the Econo gauge to ignition switched circuit and ground it should ( ) work.

So glad to have my smiles back!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Old F1
Nope, different critter. A shunt ammeter really just a voltmeter calibrated to read in amps, and it is wired in parallel, rather then in series like an ammeter. Wiring it straight through (in series) will let the factory smoke out I think?

Smiles broken (insert smiley face here)
Two things, I "spoke to IB Adrian about the wrap around problem and th eformatting marks showing up in quotes and repies for PMs. They fixed mine and your's is probably soon to follow.

Question on the amp gauge: are you now running a 12 volt system, and is the reason you are using the Econoline gauge because you have modified your instrument panel. If no to the latter, why don't you just use the standard induction loop am meter that was stock? It will handle both 6 and 12 volt.

Julie
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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Yep Julie;

The 1990 Crown Vic donor wiring is 12 v, that's why I'm using the Econo gauge, so................

The idiot light was wired to a 10A fused circuit, then on to the alternator. I'm going to wire the gauge as per idiot light and watch for smoke signals.

Tom
 
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