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Oil Drain Valve

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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #16  
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They're made for a lot of different applications:

QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:09 PM
  #17  
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Yep... the one you want is the F-106, then you specify with or without the nipple.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 10:22 PM
  #18  
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The F-106 will fit all of my Ford vehicles... thanks guys!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:24 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by juneau76
I can't offer anything other that what's already been said, but I have a clamp on my for the paranoia factor as well. I've got one for the wife's ride when that comes due for an oil change. I got both with nipples just because I have a fascination with nipples...
Me too
Originally Posted by 1975StroppeBaja
I didn't particularly see a real need for the nipple either, but I figured why not get it in case I ever do.

The reason I got this valve was to save the drain plug threads. I plan to keep this truck until it dies (like I did with my '84 Ranger at almost 300k miles RIP). With oil changes every 3000ish miles that's quite a few times of removing/reinstalling the drain plug.

I just thought it would be an easy way to keep from having to fix those threads one of these days.
This is one of the reasons I want one
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:41 AM
  #20  
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LOL,,I have a facination with nipples too,,,but not with oil coming out of them,,,or a hose hooked to them either,,Ha,,Ha

I got the Fumoto drain valve without the nipple,,,works great,,slide a drain pan under,,open the valve,,,,Got no hose clamp on mine,,it is spring loaded,,and has the locked posistion,,,,Has worked fine now for 2 yrs or so.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 06:34 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by m350
LOL,,I have a facination with nipples too,,,but not with oil coming out of them,,,or a hose hooked to them either,,Ha,,Ha
I guess you've never been to Amsterdam
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:18 AM
  #22  
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I got the one without the nipple, and don't use the clamp. If that damn thing opens on its on, then the clamp will not hold it either.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 06:28 PM
  #23  
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I have the one with the nipple. Run a hose directly in to an old milk carton. After 4 milk cartons are full just put the lids on and there is no mess to clean up. Its just as easy to drain it in to a bucket or pan but then you still have to dump the oil in to some sort of container to dispose of it. That seems like more work and more mess.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 08:27 AM
  #24  
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Thanks for all the input guys.
I'm ordering one today.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #25  
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I ordered mine from here, used coupon code YM4 and saved 10%.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #26  
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Just an update-I ordered one from Guzzle,thanks Bob,had it to me in a couple of days.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #27  
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I got the Fumoto brand.. it has a nipple.

I've never had a problem with it, except for those times when I do get my oil changed by someone else, I have to remember to tell them about it and sometimes even show them how to open it.

Also, because it is a small opening, it does take longer to drain. Make sure your oil is hot, otherwise you'll wait a long time for it to drain.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:59 AM
  #28  
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I installed mine last week. Ordered from here:
fumoto oil drian valves

$21.95 + $3.00 postage for F111-N with nipple.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:35 AM
  #29  
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I have one of these on my 67 conv. only because of the threads on the oil pan are on their way out. I do not like them because they don't fully drain the oil from the pan as the threads are longer compared to the bolt that gets removed.

Use the drain valve untill it stops draining, then remove the valve and see how much more drains out. This may not be important to some and may have little effect overall on engine longevity but i prefer getting under and removing the bolt.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:46 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DAVE67FD
I have one of these on my 67 conv. only because of the threads on the oil pan are on their way out. I do not like them because they don't fully drain the oil from the pan as the threads are longer compared to the bolt that gets removed.

Use the drain valve untill it stops draining, then remove the valve and see how much more drains out. This may not be important to some and may have little effect overall on engine longevity but i prefer getting under and removing the bolt.

It has been mentioned before. So I checked it out when I installed mine. The photo of the pan on a 7.3 a few posts up is a good example. The drain is in an indentation, and the threads do not stick up above the recess. So it's not an issue on that motor, IMO. There might be a cup of oil remaining at the most.

Anyone who was concerned could easily take a few threads off the valve without harming it at all. It's got more thread that it needs, if your pan is in good shape.

 
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