I am getting ready install a set of Fatman Fab 2" dropped spindles on my 55 F-100. I would like to get some feedback on this installation from those that have done this. I understand that I must move the brake caliper mount from the back of the OEM spindle to the front of the Fatman spindle, are there any other modifications that have to be made? Thanks, Charlie

 

I haven't done it, (waiting on you!).. but I thought I read in one of the latest Custom Classic Trucks that there were two mods.. 1 involved grinding a small portion off the back of the caliper (as viewed from the spindle outward) .. there is also a spacer washer between the caliper and the bracket when mounted to the front for alignment.

I'm not at home this week, so can't get to the mag (sitting on my desk).

sam

 

I installed them a long time ago so I don't remember most of what I did. If you want to you can look back at some of my early posts and read what I ran into. By the way my calipers are still in the rear just more vertical then the production version. If you want it low and still have a good ride then this is the way to go. I really like the way mine looks and rides. I do drive it a lot (for Mich) and at highway speeds, drives great.

I did install the stiffest shocks I could find.

Chuck

 

Why do you say that you would move the brake calipers from the back to the front? I saw an article in one of the truck magazines where they did that and I was going to call Brent (Fatman) to see if the magazine had screwed up or if in fact that was his design. I haven't called him yet but I installed my calipers exactly as they were on the Volare OEM suspension.

 

the article I saw move them to the front.

Sam

 

My point exactly...why?? Just because you see it in a magazine does not make it right. There is nothing in the Fatman installation notes that says to move the caliper. There are however a few mods that must be made on most installations; one is the caliper bracket spacer, the other is the tie rod arm clearancing between the arm and the new spindle. The OEM spindle has an indent for the curvature in the tie rod arm, the dropped spindle does not. This will become very obvious when attempting to mount the arm to the new spindle.

 

I can't believe that I forgot one of the biggest mods that you may need to do. When the dropped spindles are installed it makes the lower control arm lower in relation to the disc rotor. What this means is that, where the end of the lower control arm used to fit inside the brake rotor, it now sits opposite the machined surface of the rotor. I saw three installations prior to mine that all required the lower control arm to be shortened to gain enough clearance so that the end of the arm did not contact the rotor when the wheel was turned. Mine was no different. In fact, even though I cut and sectioned my lower arm for clearance, it is still a little too close for comfort. Looks like I may have to make another trip to the powder coater as a result. To check this clearance, install the spindle, set the suspension at ride height, then turn the steering wheel stop to stop while monitoring the distance between the end of the lower control arm and the rotor. If the lower arm ever contacts the rotor it will gouge it beyond repair.

 

I looked through my magazines and found the tech article on the volare dropped spindle in the Custom Classic December 2008 edition. I as well noticed that the caliper mount had been moved to the front of the spindle. Fatman's tech support told me today when I called them that the caliper mount had to be moved to the front of the spindle because the steering arm would make contact with the caliper if it was mounted on the rear of the spindle. They also mentioned that I would probably need to use the 1/2" washers for shims to move the caliper mount out from the rotor just a tad.

Charlie, I see that you indeed have your mounted on the rear of the spindle, I must say that you did a very nice job, man that is awesome with the yellow and black paint. After looking at your picture I am going to try to install mine with the caliper on the rear of the spindle.

 

So, it appears that the spindle body has holes to mount the caliper front or rear depending on what you want to do.. is that right? I don't remember seeing the 'extra' holes when I read the article..

did they change the design? this would force me to replace the braided stainless brake lines if the caliper moves to the front. (I would expect)..

up until this latest article everything I had read moved them down just a little, but not forward..

sam

 

That is interesting from a couple of standpoints. First, I see no interference with the steering arm in the rear-mounted caliper configuration. However, I do question the geometry of the spindles themselves...if the spindle was designed for a front-mount caliper, then can it be installed on the opposite side without adversely impacting the caster? Personally I don't care whether the caliper is in the front or the back, the spindles are easily swapped...I just wish that the instructions were more clear or at least the calipers marked "L" and "R". Thanks for bringing up this topic, we are getting a lot of issues resolved.

 

I am worried about your experience with the lower arm rubbing the disc itself however..

sam

 

No extra holes Sam, you just mount the spindle on one side or the other with the caliper holes facing forward or aft. I too noticed that the Fatman spindles moved the caliper down a little but I assumed that that was just because of the design of the spindle plate and nothing more. My concern now is whether the caster can be properly set with the spindles swapped. Since my truck has yet to hit the road, I haven't had the frontend aligned.

 

The section in question is the area between the lower ball joint and the outermost edge of the arm. This section is only about 5/8 inch wide so there's not a lot of room to trim. One of the old timers in our club merely heats the end of the arm and peens it down with a hammer...I guess it works OK but I personally don't like putting that much heat on the lower ball joint. I opted to cut a slot in the outer edge of the arm, tap the two pieces back together, and then weld and grind BEFORE the ball joint had been installed. Makes a lot cleaner job of it. I guess that even if the ball joint was in place, the welding would put a lot less heat into it than the torch did.

 

thanks.. my concern was that the article didn't mention this pretty severe risk and correction.

I am nearly done, so would have to mod the working vehicle.

Sam

 

This is some info that I posted after I did the install.

A friend and I just finished installing the fatman dropped spindles on my Volare front susp.

In my case it was a little more involved then just a simple bolt in.

Had to grind the caliper mounting bracket like they said but then we had to grind about 3/32 off of the outside surface next to the rotor so the rotor would turn.

Then we had to remove approx 1/4 off of the length of there spindle to steering arm bolts it was hitting the torsion bar mounts,preventing a full lock to lock turn.

Finally the brake hose had to be moved to miss the ball joint stud.

They only cost $505.00 plus shipping. Why would I think they would bolt in with no problems?

Chuck

I also had a prob with the lower arms when they did the alignment. The person who did the alignment moved the upper arm out which pushed the rotor into the lower arm flange . so this idiot drove the truck around and told me I had a driveshaft rubbing because I was so low. Moved it about a foot and showed him the problem so they charged me $20.00 to fix it and I got to buy another set of rotors.

It would have been nice if Fatman and his designers would have thought about manufacturing tolerances.

Also I forgot that I have changed speedometers so there must be a bit over 2000 miles on this arrangement and it works great. I think the shocks are KYB from summet.