volare dropped spindles
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
Talk about coming full circle...
I am not sure how much you are going to do on this installation; just the spindles or a complete front end overhaul, but either way I recommend replacing the lower ball joint after working on the lower control arm. There is not much clearance between the ball joint and the end of the arm and the metal is just stamped steel...not something that you want to just "hammer down" or grind away. Using a torch to heat the metal red hot and then peening it in does work but if the ball joint is in place it will literally boil the grease right out of it. An old guy in the truck club does it all the time and contends that all is needed is new grease after the ball joint cools...I'm not a worrier by nature but something just doesn't feel right about doing it this way IMHO. If you are going to use a torch and heat the end of the arm I would leave the old ball joint in place to ensure that the arm does not distort under the heat and hammer...but I would replace the ball joint once the arm has been modified and ready to be put back into service. Good luck, it sounds like you are on the right track now.
I am not sure how much you are going to do on this installation; just the spindles or a complete front end overhaul, but either way I recommend replacing the lower ball joint after working on the lower control arm. There is not much clearance between the ball joint and the end of the arm and the metal is just stamped steel...not something that you want to just "hammer down" or grind away. Using a torch to heat the metal red hot and then peening it in does work but if the ball joint is in place it will literally boil the grease right out of it. An old guy in the truck club does it all the time and contends that all is needed is new grease after the ball joint cools...I'm not a worrier by nature but something just doesn't feel right about doing it this way IMHO. If you are going to use a torch and heat the end of the arm I would leave the old ball joint in place to ensure that the arm does not distort under the heat and hammer...but I would replace the ball joint once the arm has been modified and ready to be put back into service. Good luck, it sounds like you are on the right track now.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
I talked with Daryl this afternoon at Fatman's Fab concerning the dropped spindles, and he told me that the spindle was designed to mount the brake calipers on the rear of the spindle. He also mentioned about the lower control arm could be to long causing it to rub against the rotor. He said the say thing that has been mentioned here, and that was to take a hammer and massage the end of the lower control arm enough to clear. I did not think to ask him if you could grind on the end of the control arm with a grinder, or if the hammer would be better.
Well, I appreciate everyone's imput, I will take a few pictures and try to post them in the gallery after I get the spindles installed.
Charlie
Well, I appreciate everyone's imput, I will take a few pictures and try to post them in the gallery after I get the spindles installed.
Charlie
Sam
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Charlie, I have already replaced everything on this front end, so I really would not want to use the torch on it, so I guess I will try to hammer on it.
Sam, I am going to install the spindles with the calipers monted on the rear the same as the OEM. The person that I talked with yesterday at Fatman's seemed alot more knowledgeable than the first person that I talked with. This guy even mentioned to me about the lower control arm being to long. I guess that I will try it and see.
Charlie
Sam, I am going to install the spindles with the calipers monted on the rear the same as the OEM. The person that I talked with yesterday at Fatman's seemed alot more knowledgeable than the first person that I talked with. This guy even mentioned to me about the lower control arm being to long. I guess that I will try it and see.
Charlie
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
I wouldn't recommend using a hammer unless you are heating the metal to get it soft enough to form...and since heating the metal is not the best for the ball joint, I recommend making relief cuts in the end of the arm, tapping the sides of the cuts together, and then mig welding. Cleaner job, less stress on the ball joint, and more controlled shaping of the arm. Here is a very rudimentary drawing of how I made my cuts using a fiber cutoff wheel in a die grinder. The drawing does not accurately depict the rounded endge of the arm but the top horizontal cut goes through this rounded region just below the top edge of the arm. A gap is removed in the vertical section of the arm to allow it to be tapped together this making it extend out less (if that makes sense)...
I wish I had taken pics of my work on these arms but since I didn't I hope that this pic helps.
I wish I had taken pics of my work on these arms but since I didn't I hope that this pic helps.
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Charlie,
I appreciate your drawing, now after looking at it I understand what you were saying about the relief cut. You have certainly been a big help, glad that I posted the question last week about the spindles, everybody has added some good comments.
Charlie P
I appreciate your drawing, now after looking at it I understand what you were saying about the relief cut. You have certainly been a big help, glad that I posted the question last week about the spindles, everybody has added some good comments.
Charlie P
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From: Michigan
Just found a ad in Classic Trucks (page 16, April 2009 issue) for Fatman volare spindles and Wilwood's 11" or 13" rotors. Shows the caliper in front. So with out telling the whole story I think that's why they did the change. In other words you can now have the larger brakes if you so desire.
Chuck
Chuck
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Just found a ad in Classic Trucks (page 16, April 2009 issue) for Fatman volare spindles and Wilwood's 11" or 13" rotors. Shows the caliper in front. So with out telling the whole story I think that's why they did the change. In other words you can now have the larger brakes if you so desire.
Chuck
Chuck
Sam
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
I put a set of these on my truck several years ago and I just worked the lower control arm with a large ball peen hammer to get the needed clearance. The ball joints had been in there a few years and are still in there and I have drove the crap out of it since the swap. I don't feel you have to heat the metal to massage the control arm for the clearance. Just work it slowly. It is like any other metal manipulation, you work it slowly, don't just beat the crap out of it and push it where you need it in one hit.
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Charlie, I am going to work on my lower control arms this weekend and wanted to ask you a question about the relief cuts. You mentioned in your post to make the cut horizontal cut in the rounded part of the arm just below the top edge. If I put a straight edge on the top of the arm and measured down 1/4" of an inch would that be low enough to make the cut? Also, how wide of a gap should I make the vertical cut on the end of the arm? Thanks for your help.
Charlie
Charlie
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
The idea is to cut the rolled edge away from the flat top section. There's going to be welding and grinding so you have some room for error. As for the gap, I believe that I cut about a 1/4 inch out...it's always better to cut a little, tap the sides together, and then cut more if necessary. One thing that I did not mention...the point at which the lower arm has the best chance of contacting the rotor is when the wheels are turned to the stops. At this point the part of the lower arm that is closest to the rotor is the corner of the arm. Looking at my drawing above the point would be just about at the end of the dotted line. The reason I mention this is because not only does the arm have to be shortened, it must also have a bit more taper. When you get the spindle mocked up you will see what I am talking about
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Put that into Google and you get a lot of hits
sam
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I appreciate the information on the shocks, I ordered them yesterday and they should arrive in a few days. Can I go ahead and install my spindles, rotors and etc. and install the shocks later? Thanks
Charlie
Charlie
