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*$%@*& brakes

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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #1  
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*$%@*& brakes

I'm at wits end here guys. I inherited a 1990 F 250 from my dad, and the brakes were lousy on it. Pedal went almost to the floor. I gave it a good bleed, and nothing changed. I figured the back shoes were wore out, so I pulled the drums, and they were fine. I set them up, and put everything back together, and still no good. It had to be the MC right? Changed that, bench bled it properly, put it on, and ran a complete new jug of brake fluid through it (bled the RABS too) and still nothing. Then, since I've been known to get a defective part or two, I pulled the MC off of a truck with good brakes and tried it, and it was the same thing. I'm going to change the wheel cylinders tonight, but I can't see it making a difference, since they're not leaking, and if they were seized, the pedal should be hard and no rear brakes. Is there something in the RABS module that would cause it to do this? I've been doing my own brakes since 1975, and I've never seen anything like this!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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Did you look at the front brakes? The problem may be up there.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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What happens if you pump the brake pedal, does it come up?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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I think the RABS could be your problem. I am having similar with my 88 ford f-250, which my dad gave me recently and is in rough shape. So far I have found: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

I have yet to try pulling any codes yet.

It seems to me, from reading Chiltons, that the ABS system or the power booster could cause this kind of thing.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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Did the pedal sink right to the floor or did it gradually drop? You may have gotten a bad master cylinder, it sounds like you did everything else right.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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The fronts are fine.
When I pump it, it'll come up some, but not all the way.
It'll hold after I pump it. That's why I tried another proven MC because I get my share of defective parts.
It feels like air! It has all of the symptoms of air in the lines, but there isn't any. I even checked for ballooning hoses, firewall flex, and anything else I could think of. I keep eyeballing the RABS module because I don't know how they work inside, and it's the only unknown.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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If it pumps up and holds, the MC is fine. Have you correctly adjusted the rear brakes? For some reason people think backing up and jamming the brakes a few times is the way to do it.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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Yeah, I had the drums off and did it. I'm just heading out to work on it some more. I want to have everything changed so if I have to give up and take it to town at $100/hr, I want them to have very little to do.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by John Irwin
Yeah, I had the drums off and did it.
Huh? You can't adjust rear brakes with the drums off on your truck. How exactly did you adjust them?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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i vote the rear brakes are the problem also.

if you have them retracted enough to get the drums off and do not adjust them after the drums are back on, well that is your problem.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 03:53 AM
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Also, Make SURE Your bleeding the RABS properly.


I've had major probs using a vacuum pump on some vehicles. Are You using a pump, or bleeding using the MC for pressure?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:45 AM
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How is the linkage from the brake pedal to the master cylinder? In other words, does the master cylinder plunger start to move as soon as you start to press the brake pedal down? Just a thought.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by andym
If it pumps up and holds, the MC is fine. Have you correctly adjusted the rear brakes? For some reason people think backing up and jamming the brakes a few times is the way to do it.
That's funny. The rear brake adjusters don't always do thier job over a long period of time. I had a similar problem with my '88 and I adjusted the rear brakes out and I have awesome brakes now.

Tim
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 02:08 PM
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Andym, I just turn the adjusters until the drum won't go on, then back it down a bit.
Anyways, I found the problem. Kind of. When I pulled the drums off, the adjusters were completely backed in. I have NO idea how that happened, because when I set them, they were half out. I changed the wheel cylinders and put new shoes in, set them up tight (again), and it worked. Today, I'm wondering if the adjusters could have been put in backwards. The e-brake cable wasn't installed properly, and I'm wondering if the last person to work on them might not have known what they were doing, and put them in backwards. The shoes both have the same mounting tabs, so they could go in backwards. That could maybe explain why the were loosening off.
When I set them up a month and a half ago, there might have been air in the RABS, as I didn't bleed it till after. I'm not sure what all took place, but it's fixed now. If it starts to get bad again, I'll check the adjusters. Thanks for all of your help!!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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It does sound like you swapped adjusters between sides. If you did, when the brakes tried to adjust themselves they would adjust the wrong way. This is why when you're working on drum brakes you should do one side at a time.

You're also adjusting the brakes wrong. I don't know where you got the idea that your method is correct. What you're supposed to do is put the drums and wheels on and adjust the starwheel through the slot at the bottom of the backing plates. The brakes are correctly adjusted when the shoes rub the drum lightly as you're spinning the wheel all the way around.
 
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