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The concensess there seems to be you want to have the breakaway cable long enough so the trailer brakes will not be actuated as long as it is still held to the tow vehicle by the chains. The theory is that in the event of a hitch failure you have better chance of keeping the rig under control without the trailer brakes locked up. Makes sense to me as long as the trailer wiring harness is long enough and arranged so it will remain connected in the event of a hitch failure calamity.
That would only work if you have the ability to resist touching the truck brakes and hit the trailer brakes.
I'd prefer that if there is something behind me attached only by a pair of chains, I want the brakes on hard. That will keep the trailer at the back and the truck in the front - my preferred method of stopping.
Full power on the trailer brakes isn't going to break the truck, hitch or trailer. There's only a few inches of slack there, and the brakes won't engage until most of that slack is gone.
To tell you the truth, I would rather have the trailer completely break away
from my truck and head for the ditch all by itself than have my truck go up-side down.
Damn near happened to me when the tow ball snapped @ 60+ MPH hauling
about 12K. It shoved the back of the truck sideways...By the time I regained
control It had Beat the snot out of the both the trailer and truck and soiled a pair of skivvies too.
The DOT might have a field day with my tow chains if they could find the weak spot.
There...I said it...flame on!
I would much rather have the trailer break away than stay attached to. In theory that is exactly what a break-away emergency brake is for so that when it is no longer attached it locks the brakes up and stops the trailer. Correct?
I would much rather have the trailer break away than stay attached to. In theory that is exactly what a break-away emergency brake is for so that when it is no longer attached it locks the brakes up and stops the trailer. Correct?
It does now LOL!
Actually, I think they designed the break away so the trailer stays attached with the chains and apply the brakes...if you don't panic the trailer shouldn't ram the back of your truck when you whoa it up. Yah, Right!
Ya when has that ever happened. First thing that happens when you look in the rear view and see that trailer going every where is you panic an hit them brakes..... and then smash there goes your bed. Or even worse it drags you off the road and you end up dead in a ditch.
fox racing is correct here, Thats what the break away trailer battery is for. Any trailer not a 5er required by dot to be break away equpiied if used for hire. Whats that tell you....LOL
Don't remember, last summer or two summers ago about 60 miles north of me a tree crew towing a chipper with less that desireable safety chains lost the chipper.
Crossed the road, slammed head on into a mini van and killed three people.
Now consider if your trailer breaks loose, something is wrong with your equipment.
So if it hits anything, you are at fault.
I personally want the trailer to stay with my truck if it breaks loose.
As long as it is attached, I do have a way to have input into where it winds up.
If I have to wreck my truck to save a family, they make new trucks every day.
If I die in the wreck, it was my own fault, I missed something when I inspected the hitch before I left.
If I kill the family with my trailer and I live, I am going to wish I was dead every day for the rest of my life and their lawyer is going to take everything I ever will have anyway.
This is a case where the therory won't hold up. Short of a truck and a trailer with 37" tires, there's simply no way you can make the chains keep the tongue off the ground. If the chains let you turn, they'll let the tongue hit the ground.
That's a challenge I offer to anyone: show me a picture! Unhook the trailer and show me the chains holding the tongue off the ground.
This is just an urban legend. The reason you cross chains is to cut whipping if the trailer comes off. With two parallel chains, the tongue is a pendulum. With crossed chains, the tongue won't swing because the chains resist side to side motion. It's the same reason you cross chains on a trailer securing a load.
Here is a pic of my trailer hanging from the chains and there still is a couple of inches until it contacts the ground
FWIW the rule is that the breaking load limit of the chain or cable needs to exceed the gross trailer wieght (rated or actual which ever is greater) breaking limit is three times the working load limit This applies to all trailers even goose neck hitches the only exception is 5th wheel plates like found on semis and some campers
FWIW the rule is that the breaking load limit of the chain or cable needs to exceed the gross trailer wieght (rated or actual which ever is greater) breaking limit is three times the working load limit This applies to all trailers even goose neck hitches the only exception is 5th wheel plates like found on semis and some campers
theoretically, at most actual is the same as rated...i'm sure the trailer can probably handle a few hundred over what it's rated, but personally...i'm not interested in testing that theory. my trailer is actually my "weakest link"...truck and hitch are rated at something like 12k i think, but the trailer is 8100. so 8100 it is. but i figure a 36-ish ft/12k-ish lb rig is plenty for me anyways! :O one of these days i should run over to the truck stop in chesapeake and put the whole thing on the scale...
i think i want a featherlite aluminum tagalong for my next one...i swear my bee drinks more diesel than the truck!
Don't remember, last summer or two summers ago about 60 miles north of me a tree crew towing a chipper with less that desireable safety chains lost the chipper.
Crossed the road, slammed head on into a mini van and killed three people.
Now consider if your trailer breaks loose, something is wrong with your equipment.
So if it hits anything, you are at fault.
I personally want the trailer to stay with my truck if it breaks loose.
As long as it is attached, I do have a way to have input into where it winds up.
If I have to wreck my truck to save a family, they make new trucks every day.
If I die in the wreck, it was my own fault, I missed something when I inspected the hitch before I left.
If I kill the family with my trailer and I live, I am going to wish I was dead every day for the rest of my life and their lawyer is going to take everything I ever will have anyway.
Congrats Ryan, you're the first I've seen to come up with that!
You've got the chains way up forward on the tongue. Most trailers mount them back. Combine that with a pretty high hitch and you're doing what most can't.
Congrats Ryan, you're the first I've seen to come up with that!
You've got the chains way up forward on the tongue. Most trailers mount them back. Combine that with a pretty high hitch and you're doing what most can't.
Thats the benefit of building your own stuff. I built the trailer and the flat bed. The hitch isn't that high but compared to most hitches the chain hooks are high and that is what makes the biggest change.
theoretically, at most actual is the same as rated...i'm sure the trailer can probably handle a few hundred over what it's rated, but personally...i'm not interested in testing that theory. my trailer is actually my "weakest link"...truck and hitch are rated at something like 12k i think, but the trailer is 8100. so 8100 it is. but i figure a 36-ish ft/12k-ish lb rig is plenty for me anyways! :O one of these days i should run over to the truck stop in chesapeake and put the whole thing on the scale...
i think i want a featherlite aluminum tagalong for my next one...i swear my bee drinks more diesel than the truck!
The whole rated or actual weight deal has more to do with the highway patrol handing out tickets. Best advice I can give is to know what things weigh and keep your equipment in good repair and have a routine for hooking up so you never have use the saftey chains
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