Quick Question need answer by tommorow
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Thanks for all the help Liv and Bismic and everyone else, any problem I have you are more than good to me. I decided to go with Powerslot Pro Stop Rotors, and Hawk LTS pads. I will let you know how it works. Can someone if they have a minute tell me how to train these brake rotors or will that come with the rotors??? Also what is the socket size for the caliper bolts on the truck. I only have this truck so I need to get everything I need before I disassemble. Know what I mean??
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City/Breckenridge
I believe they are 3/4 on the front and 18mm on the back. You'll also need a 14mm to remove the actual caliper from the caliper mount. Set the caliper up on the leaf spring don't let it hang from the line.
Powerslots are good rotors from what I've read you will be happy.
Break in is as follows.
Pump the brakes to build the pressure back up.
Accelerate to 50mph then slam on the brakes down to 10mph. You want to brake as quickly as possible without engaging the ABS. Repeat this about 5 times. You do NOT want to come to a complete stop whatever you do. Let the brakes cool down for a minute. After this get on the highway for 20 miles or so. You should be good after that.
Also a little tip for removing the rotors. Hit the top of rotor a few times with a hammer turning it while you do it to break the rust free. After that turn the wheel so you can get a full swing at the back of the rotor. Turn the rotor while your doing this and it should pop right off. You don't need to use a rubber mallet since you aren't reusing the rotors.
Powerslots are good rotors from what I've read you will be happy.
Break in is as follows.
Pump the brakes to build the pressure back up.
Accelerate to 50mph then slam on the brakes down to 10mph. You want to brake as quickly as possible without engaging the ABS. Repeat this about 5 times. You do NOT want to come to a complete stop whatever you do. Let the brakes cool down for a minute. After this get on the highway for 20 miles or so. You should be good after that.
Also a little tip for removing the rotors. Hit the top of rotor a few times with a hammer turning it while you do it to break the rust free. After that turn the wheel so you can get a full swing at the back of the rotor. Turn the rotor while your doing this and it should pop right off. You don't need to use a rubber mallet since you aren't reusing the rotors.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,956
Likes: 6
From: Abilene, Texas
I got a question? why not just see if the rotors can be turned? That would save a bunch of money. the way liv said to check the rotors is a good way to see if they are warped or not, but you should always have rotors turned when installing new pads. No matter if it is warped or not. You should never just "pad slap" a brake job. Let me know how the new rotors work out for you. Im about to do a brake job on my truck as well. I tow a really heavy trailler so I was considering getting better rotors. anyways all good post. I just thought I would chime in with my two cents.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
yes they were direct from ford and they can't be turned. Anyway I have used them up many miles on them time for new. I hope all my prep is enough....3/4 for the front calipers...Sounds good...13MM for the caliper pins...Thanks Liv Doing this tonight was better than watching The Bachelor with the wife...I will post tommorow after I get done.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,078
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From: Kansas City/Breckenridge
=D I put the bolt back in the mount took an adjustable wrench and beat on it. Squirt a lot of wd40 on it while turning and it should break loose eventually. If they are rusted real bad sand them down or replace them