Ford Remote Start
Fleet Owner
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Also, when you attempt to remote start, what is the anti-theft light on the dash doing? Is it on the entire time the ignition is on, always off, flashing, or goes on for a few seconds then turns off?
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Senior User
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From: Eastern South Carolina
Just thought of something. There is a Theft light that flashes just above the RPM's and the new red light flashes I installed with the remote start unit. Is the one that is above the RPM's still showing that the original alarm is set also? According to my testing, the truck did not have an alarm on it until I added the remote start unit.
Also, I just tested something. I locked and set the alarm for the truck using the new remotes for the remote start. I then pressed the button to remote start the truck. When I did this, the alarm went off.....sounding the horn. I'm not sure what this is telling me. I know this is not suppose to happen.
Also, I just tested something. I locked and set the alarm for the truck using the new remotes for the remote start. I then pressed the button to remote start the truck. When I did this, the alarm went off.....sounding the horn. I'm not sure what this is telling me. I know this is not suppose to happen.
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That's the PATS theft light. The PATS isn't so much an alarm as it is a starter disable. If that theft light on the dash is flashing, then the PATS is not recognizing the starter bypass module as a 3rd key and is disabling the starter.
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From: Eastern South Carolina
Ok, so what should I do?
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Either the sensor ring for your bypass module isn't position correctly or it is not getting powered during the starting process. Once one or both of those problems are solved, you will then have to do the 2 key programming steps for the bypass module.
How is the bypass module getting it's power, from what source?
(Hint: the bypass module has to be powered during the programming sequence.)
How is the bypass module getting it's power, from what source?
(Hint: the bypass module has to be powered during the programming sequence.)
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From: Eastern South Carolina
Either the sensor ring for your bypass module isn't position correctly or it is not getting powered during the starting process. Once one or both of those problems are solved, you will then have to do the 2 key programming steps for the bypass module.
How is the bypass module getting it's power, from what source?
(Hint: the bypass module has to be powered during the programming sequence.)
How is the bypass module getting it's power, from what source?
(Hint: the bypass module has to be powered during the programming sequence.)
These are the instructions:
- Slip antenna loop over PATS transceiver.
- Cut four-way connector off of White wire from Interlock relay.
Plug male four-way from PATS interface module into four-way connector on back of car starter module and splice the white wire from plug into thin White wire from relay.
Speaking with my Dad, it must be getting power from the remote start box, which is what it plugs into.
I would scan the picture from the book, but I don't have a scanner with me. I can scan it tomorrow morning when I get to work.
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A scan of the diagram you're looking at would be helpful because I think you're using a module that I am not familiar with.
BTW, did you try sticking a key in the ignition (don't turn it, just stick it in) then with the key in place, press the remote start button? If it starts by reading the working key then you know the problem does have to do with the bypass module.
BTW, did you try sticking a key in the ignition (don't turn it, just stick it in) then with the key in place, press the remote start button? If it starts by reading the working key then you know the problem does have to do with the bypass module.
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From: Eastern South Carolina
I'll scan it when I get to work in the AM.
I have tried doing the PATS programming with the key in, and it didn't respond. I'll try remote starting it with the key in it and post back.
I have tried doing the PATS programming with the key in, and it didn't respond. I'll try remote starting it with the key in it and post back.
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From: Eastern South Carolina
A scan of the diagram you're looking at would be helpful because I think you're using a module that I am not familiar with.
BTW, did you try sticking a key in the ignition (don't turn it, just stick it in) then with the key in place, press the remote start button? If it starts by reading the working key then you know the problem does have to do with the bypass module.
BTW, did you try sticking a key in the ignition (don't turn it, just stick it in) then with the key in place, press the remote start button? If it starts by reading the working key then you know the problem does have to do with the bypass module.
i took the key out and put it just under the ignition (stuck between a bracket), closed the door, then set the alarm. Pressed the start button and it went back to acting like it was going to start the truck (all lights on the dash came on and gages moved) until it did this four times, then stopped.....just as I mentioned before.
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Here are programming steps I found. If they are different from yours try these.
Programming the SECURILOCK
NOTE: Two PATS keys are required to program the SECURILOCK.
NOTE: IMPORTANT: Each of the following steps should be completed with no more than 5 seconds delay between steps.
12. Insert the first ignition key and turn to the run position. Watch for the PATS light to turn off. Remove the first key.
13. Insert the second ignition key and turn to the run position. Watch for the PATS light to turn off. Remove the second key.
14. Press and hold the remote start button key for 3 seconds.
The PATS light should stay on for 3-5 seconds before turning off, which means that the SECURILOCK was successfully programmed.
NOTE: If the PATS light blinks rapidly, repeat steps 1-3 to retry programming the SECURILOCK.
NOTE: The engine will start if the Remote Start kit has been installed correctly, the brake is not depressed, and the hood and doors are closed.
Programming the SECURILOCK
NOTE: Two PATS keys are required to program the SECURILOCK.
NOTE: IMPORTANT: Each of the following steps should be completed with no more than 5 seconds delay between steps.
12. Insert the first ignition key and turn to the run position. Watch for the PATS light to turn off. Remove the first key.
13. Insert the second ignition key and turn to the run position. Watch for the PATS light to turn off. Remove the second key.
14. Press and hold the remote start button key for 3 seconds.
The PATS light should stay on for 3-5 seconds before turning off, which means that the SECURILOCK was successfully programmed.
NOTE: If the PATS light blinks rapidly, repeat steps 1-3 to retry programming the SECURILOCK.
NOTE: The engine will start if the Remote Start kit has been installed correctly, the brake is not depressed, and the hood and doors are closed.
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According to the 2 chirps you're getting the hood is open OR the brake pedal is being pressed. Maybe you tapped into the wrong brake switch wire. If you tapped into the +12v live side of the switch instead of the switched side of the switch, it will appear that the brake pedal is pressed all the time.
1 Chirp SECURILOCK not shut down indicating a key is in the ignition programmed correctly, or switch. the SECURILOCK antenna ring is damaged.
2 Chirps BRAKE is being pressed, or the HOOD is open.
3 Chirps One of the vehicles DOORS are open.
4 Chirps TACH not programmed.
1 Chirp SECURILOCK not shut down indicating a key is in the ignition programmed correctly, or switch. the SECURILOCK antenna ring is damaged.
2 Chirps BRAKE is being pressed, or the HOOD is open.
3 Chirps One of the vehicles DOORS are open.
4 Chirps TACH not programmed.
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From: Eastern South Carolina
Here is the documentation I scanned from the instruction booklet and one FAQ sheet.
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The first page tells you that 2 horn chirps means the brake pedal is pressed. Assuming that you're not in Service Mode, this goes back to what I said 2 posts above. Your #4 White/Tan Brake Safety Input (+) wire is connected to the wrong side of your brake light switch down at the pedal. Check this wire with a test light. The light should only light up when the brake pedal is pressed. If it is on all the time, you have to move the #4 wire to the other side of the switch.