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Do I really have to have two keys to get this to work? If so, I've got to fork out $75 to get another key.
Yes you need to keys to program a third. In this case the third being the bypass module. For 97 and 98 models you only need one key to program another key or a bypass module. But starting in 99 two keys were required.
Because the dealership lost the other set of keys, I talked to the owner of the franchise and he gave me the new key for half off. $37.50 isn't bad, but I would have rather had it for free.
I guess everyone is holding on to their money these days.
Hopefully, I'll be finishing up with the remote start tonight or tomorrow.
Does anyone know if this impact sensor will work with my silver edition ford remote start? I have contacted the seller and he cannot say if it will or not.
Also just to let you know with the model remote start kit that you got if you have and use the outside door keypad to unlock the door it will set off the alarm.
Also just to let you know with the model remote start kit that you got if you have and use the outside door keypad to unlock the door it will set off the alarm.
Well thats just great! You love letting bad news slip don't you. HA!
Is there ANOTHER part to buy to allow it to work?
I use that thing two or more times a day. But if the truck is already running without the keys in it, then I'll have the fob with me to unlock the truck.
Here and there I'll use it when I'm in the yard and the truck is locked and the keys are inside the house.....oh well.
There will be a learning curve and some adapting, but I think it will be worth it overall.
I use that thing two or more times a day. But if the truck is already running without the keys in it, then I'll have the fob with me to unlock the truck.
Here and there I'll use it when I'm in the yard and the truck is locked and the keys are inside the house.....oh well.
I remember seeing somewhere there was a way of using some diodes on the door switches to the door input wire instead of hooking the door input wire to the dome light wire. Because as soon as you hit a button on the key pad the dome light turns on and that is the trigger for the alarm as hooked up in the instructions.
I had originally bought the same remote start you did and after I found out the key pad thing I ended up putting that in my girlfriends Honda and getting my self the newer powercode silver remote start.
Well thats just great! You love letting bad news slip don't you. HA!
Sorry about that didn't think of it. And yes it is worth it when it is below 0 outside
I remember seeing somewhere there was a way of using some diodes on the door switches to the door input wire instead of hooking the door input wire to the dome light wire. Because as soon as you hit a button on the key pad the dome light turns on and that is the trigger for the alarm as hooked up in the instructions.
I have the remote start installed and working.....well the alarm is working. The only issue I am having is with the Tach Programming Procedure in the System Test and Programming section. These are the instructions:
Insert the key into ignition.
Press the brake pedal. (and hold in)
Turn the ignition key on and off twice.
Release the brake pedal.
At this time, the horn/alarm should chirp twice letting you know that system has entered tach learning mode.
Start the engine.
The engine will need to run long enough for it to level out. Once the system has learned the tach sequence, the park lights will flash every five seconds.
Press and release the brake pedal to exit tach learn mode and turn the engine off.
The issue is, I cannot get the horn to chirp during the programming procedure...step 5.
The truck will not remote start until the tach is programmed and then the PATS system is programmed.....and I can't program the PATS system until the tach is learned.
Troubleshooting steps I have tried:
I hooked the tach wire from the remote start to a different coil. I had it on coil #2 cause it was closer to remote unit. Moved to coil #1.
Checked and rechecked correct wiring
Instruction book says that if horn will not chirp, the brake pedal is not being registered or the remote system is in Service Mode. Brake pedal is registering and the system is not in Service Mode. I put the system in Service Mode just to take it back out of Service Mode to be sure it was not in that mode.
I plan on calling the Ford Technical Assistance number tomorrow, but any information you guys could provide would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
I had this same problem and called tech support for it. The tech I talked to knew exactly what the problem was. It has nothing to do with the tach wire (This is what I thought the problem was to). It has to do with the key-in sense wire. Some Ford vehicles have a week ground signal on this wire, so here is what the tech told me to do then all worked fine after.
1.Disconnect the remote start's Key-In Sense wire from the vehicle wire harness.
2. Temporarily attach the remote start's Key-In Sense wire to a good grounding point.
3. Do the tach learn procedure.
4. Once the tach learn procedure is complete hook the remote start's Key-In Sense wire back up to the vehicle wire harness.
Now I can't get the PATS Programming to work. I enter the first key, turn it on, wait, then turn it off. Enter second key, turn it on, wait, then turn it off and remove the key. Press and hold the start button on the remote to start the engine. The pack lights flash and the horn chirps once just like it says it should, then the ignition turns on. The ignition turns on 4 times then stops trying.
I have my Dad holding a test light to the wire that should be sending voltage to the starter and there is no voltage being sent. Just to make sure we have the right wires, I try to crank it using the keys, and the test light lights up. What am I missing?
The only troubleshooting sheet I have says that if you are having this issue, the hood switch is not installed properly. To resolve this, I simply took the wire going to the hood sensor and grounded it. This makes the system think the hood is closed if it thinks it is open. Still having the same issue.
To resolve this, I simply took the wire going to the hood sensor and grounded it. This makes the system think the hood is closed if it thinks it is open. Still having the same issue.
I could be wrong when it come to your system. But with every aftermarket system I've installed, grounding the hood wire makes the system think the hood is open and it will not start. Try not connecting the hood wire to anything and see what happens.
When attemtping to remote start the ignition turns on, but the engine will not crank.
The hood is open or the hood switch is not installed properly. The hood switch supplies the ground side for the crank interlock relay when the hood is closed. When the hood is open, the hood safety switch is open preventing the remote starter from cranking the engine.
I'm wondering if the Securilock Interface antenna ring is not placed in the right spot. I'm going to check that now.