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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:15 PM
  #1  
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97biostroke
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Help...still

Well I bought some new valve cover gaskets since the old ones had two melted connections and 4 pins that melted away and got them in tonight. I wish i could tell you that my truck runs fine...but after all the labor ( new glow plugs and CPS too ) it has not changed at all. While cranking i can see rpms move ( so its not the CPS ), and it starts just fine, but dies after a second of running. If i floor it, it will rev to a 1000 rpm before it dies. I changed the fuel filter ( fuel bowl had fuel) and still no difference. Its been in a 50-55* garage for the past week so the fuel cant possibly be gelled up. The fuel pump is only a year old. The only code is the P0344 code that reads CPS circ interm. right bank or somethin, but only comes on after it stalls then goes away. I am about to throw in the towel, so this is my last resort. Any ideas? Anything would be great.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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mike9381150
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checked fuel pressure, just a thought

Mike
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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thats the only idea i have left...how exactly do i check it?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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I used a dial type tire gauge on mine at the schrader valve.
Dont feel left out ...still havent found my prob.

mike
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:26 PM
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is the schrader valve the same one that gets taken off to shim the fuel pressure?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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Either below it or above it cant remember looks like a valve stem on a tire.

Mike
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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so the tire pressure gauge gets put on a connection on the fuel bowl itself?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:35 PM
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thats how i did mine, my not be right but showed that i have 68-71lbs @ idle.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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to add if you have one with the short hose attached will I think make it easier, I do remember it being behind the lifting eye.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 07:50 AM
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97 B ,,next time you start it & it stalls ..stop & look in the HPOP resevoir ,,oil should be 1/2 " from the top..
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:12 AM
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I don't remember what was in the other thread so just a WAG here, electircal continuity issue that occurs after the engine starts? from vibration? engine harness wiring? You can check the continuity of the harness by ohming it out, diconnect it at the connector on the left (drivers) fender (10mm bolt connector). Check the tightness of the Timmerman nut (tin nut) on the rear of the IPR and the electircal connector on the IPR. Check the connections on the IDM and PCM (left fender).
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:25 AM
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Ill get around to doin those things tonight after school but i did get it to run just a minute ago. If i throttle it while cranking it will start and rev to 1500 before it tries to die, but will remain at 600 rpms at "idle". It then runs like crap and sounds like its missing or not running on all cylinders. If i give it half throttle instead of full it will almost run smoother, but still terrible, and the rpms can SLLLLLLOOOOOOOWWWWWWWLLLLLLLLy climb, up to a 1000 before i quit. At 1000 rpm i can throttle back and forth between 600-1000 rpm, and it smoothes out just a little around 750 but still terrible. Anything less than half throttle it dies and throws a CEL ( Im pretty sure the code is just from stalling, not the cause of the stalling, its P0344 )
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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What are you reading the codes with ..?
& have you checked the oil level ?...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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I scanned codes with a superchips programmer my buddy has the first night it wasn't running. Just got the one P0344 code, tried clearing codes but still did the same thing. Haven't checked it again since its doing the same thing. I think I'm gonna swap a different IDM in that a friend of mine has and see if thats the problem. I made sure the oil level was fine right away, and its fresh oil with only a few hundred miles on it.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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Well folks this just hasnt been a good year. Ordered a new IDM, rebuilt superduty with a 1 year warranty, didnt make a difference. So far I've replaced melted UVC harnesses, changed glow plugs, fresh fuel filter, new IDM, and its been sitting in a 55* garage for two weeks. Only throws the stalling code. Starts up, then dies. No abnormal amount of smoke. I'm almost ran out of favors by gettin rides to school, and I need her up and running. Any last chance ideas before i spend i spend a buttload to get it towed to the shop and fixed there?
 
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