im wondering what ajustments to my drive shaft or steering etc. i will have to make to my 78 f250 4X4 camper special. any help and edvice is much aprreciated.

 

Your driveshafts will be fine as long as you perform the appropriate diff angle changes.
You will want to start looking into stainless braided brake lines.
You will also require some sort of steering correction. The drop pitman is a start, a raised steering arm is an option, but x-over steering is the way to go.
MAy also have to disconnect the parking brake cables from the frame so they can have a little more stretch.
Diff vents may need to be lengthened when you get to 6 inches and up.

 

I have been looking at doing the cross over also. To buy one is expessive in my mind. I can fab and weld good also. Mig,tig,and arc. What does dom mean as far as the tubing? Seam less? What size should I use? I have seen 1.25x.250 on some of them. Where can I get the rod ends and weld in tubes. I know you have to put reverse threads on one side. I need a new tire rod also the one that connects both sides together and though of making that also. I should be able to get the tubing from work. We have a lot of sizes of seamless for our boilers. As far as the knuckle I have a buddy who will machine it and tap it and make the bracket for a small fee if he isnt to busy.

 

DOM is "drawn over mandrel", DOM tubing is made by rolling mild steel sheet and then welding the seam, then a a mandrel is run through the center to accurately size the tubing and smooth the weld seam, The additional mechanical working adds strength to the tubing by "cold working". Also with an accurate wall thickness it is very uniform and predictible.
Many thicknesses are available, and while it is fairly expensive, it is the least expensive type before you get into seemless. DOM is not seemless.
True seamless tubing is another matter. This is made by taking a billet of steel and piercing it with a "bullit shape" to form a tube. This is expensive tubing as you can imagine.
Another option is a high tensil strength tube like 4130. 4130 , normalized is similar to DOM in yield strength , but a higher ultimate tensile. The real advantage is the capability of being heat treated to much higher yield and ultimate tensile strengths.
I now use the 4130 variety. You must Tig this by the way.

You will have to decide whether or not you will actually use weld in inserts or use a wall thickness large enough to just tap the tube. This is an option and probably the easiest.
Then you must decide whether to use tie rod ends, or spherical rod ends. DOnt get cheap here, this is your steering.
Chebby 1 ton TRE's are only about 50 bucks each, and 1.25" chro mo rod ends run me about 125.00 each.
Just cant be too safe here.
I have found that it is less expansive to purchase a steering arm. I have the ability to make them, and have made them and for the amount of work it requires, ie easier to just purchase.

 

$50 each. Would be easier to just buy. I just hate paying someone to do what I can. But for that little amount of difference I think I will buy one. I went with the Superduty 6.5" procomp fronts. Raised my truck right at 7" then I saw the steering issue and will have to go cross over. Who makes good quality parts that wont break the bank for this. I might as well just buy the whole kit. It just sucks when you look at something and say I can make that and then you find out what the parts cost. even if you can get to dom tubing free it still not worth the hassle. Thanks, You help alot of people on here. Especially me since I have been away from the dents since 1992.

 

So i have to do all this for a 4" suspension lift. i guess i should have clearified that.

 

you dont need stainless lines.. you can make short extensions from hard lines for yours.. and weld on mounting tabs for them lower on the frame, dotn really need to rotate diffs for only 4 inches either.

 

Perhaps I was not the clear one here.
For a 4" kit, you will have to do nothing, except for lifting the truck.
Even at 6 inches you have minimal work, and zero to the drivehshafts.
The only possible mod, would be to the driveline angle.

Now, the steering correction will have to be made for either lift.
Usually just a drop pitman will be fine, if x-over is not in the plan.

For either lift make sure that the brake lines reach. You can modify stock lines, but aftermarket lines are highly suggested.

Is that a little more clear?

 

Maybe not the rear but deffenitly the front.


When I first put my 4" springs in front (1979 F250) when I would take off from the line in 4x you could literally "feel" the u-joints on the front axle d-shaft binding. You'll have to shim it.

 

ok that helps. but how do i get a drop pitman arm and how difficult is it to install? and how do i adjust my driveline angle?

 

Good questions.
First the drop pitman arm.
Whichever kit you choose to purchase, will offer and even suggest the correct steering correction for your ride. In fact, they will make it an option for your ride.
This will require a suitable pitman arm puller and a big hammer, to remove. The correct puller will make easy work of this.
Difficulty is based upon your tool. Cheap tool might take all day. Correct tool will make this easy as pie.

To adjust your driveline angle, a wedge will have to be installed under the leaf spring. This will fit between the leaf and the spring perch, and depending on how much axle, or pinion angle is required, will determine how thick the wedge should be.
You should expect approx, 4 to 6 degrees for the above lift. There are many variables here, so you will have to determine this after the kit is installed.

 

wow ok thanks that helps alot. and i didnt know they made a tool just to pull the pitman arm thanks. but whats a wedge? is it a special kind of thing that they sell just for a lift that will exactly fit my rig because i have never heard of a wedge.

 

and another question. is it easier and cheaper to install the lift kit and parts by myself or to take it somewhere and have a place to do it?

 

Cheaper if you DIY, with out a doubt. Saves money for other mods (get ready to start an addiction )


Easier...............................it depends on your wrenching ability. But a vehicle like you have is a good place to start for even a novice. It has a fairly simple suspension and if you get your hands on some decent hand tools, a good floor jack and some good jack stands your well on your way.

If you do decide to do it on your own remember to BE SAFE, there are no second chances!!! Don't rely on a jack to hold up a vehicle, support it properly (jack stands) and double check that is supported properly. Also if you decide to do it yourself and you run into a problem you can always ask here for help .

 

Doing it yourself is definately the way to go. If you don't have any experience and don't know what you're doing, PERFECT! There's really only one way to learn and that's to get out there and do it.

Take some advice and don't make a deadline for yourself. Things will go wrong and it will take longer than you think! I promise. I remember last new years we put a 6" lift in my cousins Bronco, took off work Friday so we could take it upstate for the weekend for New Years, Our plan was to leave Friday night...... well we made it up by midnight Saturday. So my only point, take your time, don't rush and have fun.