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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 07:46 AM
  #61  
tylerp's Avatar
tylerp
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Slow down, grasshopper. You will need gauges too. You sound like you may be mod happy. If so, you may want to find a truck with forged rods, not an 02 or 03. I make right at 400 to the back wheels with mine, and I have powdered rods. I am about done with go faast mods because of this.

Consider an older truck that may already have some of the mods you want. DP is located at DP-Tuner.com. Something like that. Google it and read up. Heck, they are a sponsor and the link is right at the top of the page.

no, not at all. im not a "go big or go home" kind of guy... as i have said, intake, exhaust, and tuner and im done... is that mod happy??
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 07:59 AM
  #62  
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And gauges along with that set up and you can call that temporarily done. I said the same thing and now I am wanting a bigger turbo and injectors.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:13 AM
  #63  
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by jdecker88
And gauges along with that set up and you can call that temporarily done. I said the same thing and now I am wanting a bigger turbo and injectors.
lol. yeah, prob'ly...
how much for gauges?? 650 to 750 when its all said and done?? EGT, fuel pressure, trans temp, boost press. anything else?? or am i wrong on those?? i dont know if it's normal, but this truck im lookin at does NOT have a boost gauge.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:23 AM
  #64  
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you need trans temp,boost and pyrometer
Add a valve body to it and you'll be fixed for a while
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #65  
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Only 05+ Vehicles had a factory boost gauge and they were not that accurate. A good set of Isspros will run you about 350 and Di Optix will run you about 400 thats you installing them mostshops will do them for 150 bucks for the big three.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:16 AM
  #66  
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by rbaker6336
you need trans temp,boost and pyrometer
Add a valve body to it and you'll be fixed for a while

pyrometer?? mot familiar with that... im sure i know what it is... just never heard it called that... im thinkin egt, but im not certain...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #67  
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by jdecker88
Only 05+ Vehicles had a factory boost gauge and they were not that accurate. A good set of Isspros will run you about 350 and Di Optix will run you about 400 thats you installing them mostshops will do them for 150 bucks for the big three.

500 to 550 dont sound bad. is there any quallity differences in the two brands, or just cosmetic differences?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #68  
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That monitors your EGTS (exhaust gas tempratures)

Here is a little post that might help you out from Strokin_it7.3 (kris)

People have all stated their opinion, so i will state mine too. They all have the same logic, more air in, more air out, and less EGT ( exhaust gas temperature).

If you gave me $2000 and said "Here, modify it" this is what i would do. Prices indicate that you install them. or, bring it to me and i would gladly do it for you

- Intake filter- Wix filters - oil filters, biodiesel filters, air filters, and fuel filters from FleetFilter! part 46637($20) or Napa part number 6637-($40)

-Exhaust- Mark Romriell (MKO Diesel performance) 5" exhaust, muffler-less or with a muffler, about $350 shipped, very reasonable in price. Look on ebay for this guy.

-Gauges- If you are good at wiring, you can get the kit and do it your own, all of the wiring and painting of the pod. Kits usually cost $300-350, or if you want to have them ready to slap on and hook up, you can get them pre-wired and all for about $400. Ill figure $400 into the price. I personally prefer the brand of gauges -Autometer, but there are others like DiProcol, Isspro and Spa digital gauges. The common three parameters are EGT temp (pre-turbo), transmission temp, and turbo boost. I bought my gauges from Garrett @ Diesel Performance Parts Power Chips Diesel Exhaust Intake Performance Products

-Now you have the ability to get air in and out and monitor the temperatures, it's time for a chip. The man to call for chips is Jody Tipton at DP-Tuner, he can set you up with a fully customized chip for YOUR truck and yours only. It is much better than a generic tuner or fueling box, such as Edge, Superchip, Bully Dog, and Diablosport. His chips range from one single file for $239, to a an amazing 16 position chip with every imaginable tune on it, for about $40 more per tune. I myself am going to get rid of the TS performance chip i have now, and get a DP tuner 8 or 9 position chip. so, lets say that a 6 position chip will cost around $450. You still have around $750 left after shipping. Want to keep going?

Read on.


-Now you will probably enounter some problems such as throwing a code when you really romp on the pedal. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) thinks that the truck is running a stock program still, so it sees an abnormally high boost level, and it will throw a code. The fix for this is to go to ITP Diesel, LLC, and buy a Overboost Regulator. It is about $45 or so, and it will get rid of this problem.

-Due to that chip adding more power to the engine, it has to force that power through the same transmission, that is not designed to handle the extra power. Call up Brian at BTS (brianstruckshop.com), and set up a custom-made transmission Valve Body. They run about $225, and if you tell Brian that you are running a Tipton chip, he can modify it custom for that chip. Also, tell Jody that you will be getting a BTS valve body (here we commonly call it a "BTS VB"), and he can tune the chip for the VB as well.

-A comfort mod is next, not one that produces power, but it makes the engine run smoother and quieter. there is a thing that is called a Stainless Steel High pressure Oil rail Crossover. It is a tube that adjoins the two oil rails (oil that is used to fire the injectors, 500psi-3000psi), and it acts as a shock absorber to make all 8 cylinders have relatively the same pressure. It is more expensive than a rubber version, but it's going to last forever, it's about $70. I believe you can get that at ITP when you buy that overboost regulator.

-Another comfort mod is to eliminate the quick-disconnect fittings on the suction-side of the fuel pump. The factory design has a crappy "mixing chamber" inside the tank, that lets air in the fuel, and the air in the fuel will cause the injectors to become louder, and it also shortens their life. Removing the Q/D's will also help prevent air from entering, as they work well under pressure, not so well under a suction. I believe this $40-70 mod can be purchased at ITP as well, a filter will be about $105 if added to the kit.

we have about $350 left.

-Your stock compressor wheel in the turbocharger will probably be hating life, as it tends to reach it's limit very quickly on the air it can push out of the turbo and into the engine, and it will shoot that air back out of the compressor, commonly called "surge". a cure for this is to install an aftermarket compressor wheel, designed to reduce or stop surge. it can be found cheapest at Xtreme Diesel Performance - XDP Diesel Performance Parts, for about $55.

While you are spending all of this money, i thought it would be nice to do some free or really cheap mods:

-rerouting the crankcase vent (CCV) to the atmosphere. the stock system reroutes this into the intake of the engine, and it's a dirty mess, as oil will seep out of the intercooler boots. You can do this mod for about $15, and the only thing i needed was a piece of 4" exhaust pipe, about 4" long, to replace the piece you remove. To get the gasses away from the engine, run a piece of 1/2" heater hose to whatever length you want it. I grew tired of the infamous cloud of mist coming out from under the truck, so i tied mine into my stacks. Look at the connector that is between your two rubber intake boots between the air filter and the turbo, you'll see what i mean.

Also, a FREE mod is to remove the foil on the driver's side intercooler pipe. It helps that whistle get a little louder, and it has no adverse affects. Disclaimer: it's a royal pain to get that stuff off. Let's spend some more money.

Some things that you want to keep track of, are transmission temps, and EGT temps. the transmission can get hot, so if you browse Ebay, you can get a 6.0L's transmission cooler (NEW) for about $100-125. installation is easy, several guys here have done it. The stock transmission cooler on these trucks sucks. I believe it is about the size of a keyboard. This new one is three times that size.

To reduce the EGT, a wise decision is to install another 6.0 part, this time an intercooler. It's a direct drop in, and some guys see a reduction in EGT of 100-150*, for about $100-150, again off ebay.

Well, i think this about depletes your fund. You will be out $2000, however the benefit in performance, and the massive grin on your face all the time is well worth the cost.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:04 AM
  #69  
tylerp's Avatar
tylerp
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by jdecker88
That monitors your EGTS (exhaust gas tempratures)

Here is a little post that might help you out from Strokin_it7.3 (kris)

People have all stated their opinion, so i will state mine too. They all have the same logic, more air in, more air out, and less EGT ( exhaust gas temperature).

If you gave me $2000 and said "Here, modify it" this is what i would do. Prices indicate that you install them. or, bring it to me and i would gladly do it for you

- Intake filter- Wix filters - oil filters, biodiesel filters, air filters, and fuel filters from FleetFilter! part 46637($20) or Napa part number 6637-($40)

-Exhaust- Mark Romriell (MKO Diesel performance) 5" exhaust, muffler-less or with a muffler, about $350 shipped, very reasonable in price. Look on ebay for this guy.

-Gauges- If you are good at wiring, you can get the kit and do it your own, all of the wiring and painting of the pod. Kits usually cost $300-350, or if you want to have them ready to slap on and hook up, you can get them pre-wired and all for about $400. Ill figure $400 into the price. I personally prefer the brand of gauges -Autometer, but there are others like DiProcol, Isspro and Spa digital gauges. The common three parameters are EGT temp (pre-turbo), transmission temp, and turbo boost. I bought my gauges from Garrett @ Diesel Performance Parts Power Chips Diesel Exhaust Intake Performance Products

-Now you have the ability to get air in and out and monitor the temperatures, it's time for a chip. The man to call for chips is Jody Tipton at DP-Tuner, he can set you up with a fully customized chip for YOUR truck and yours only. It is much better than a generic tuner or fueling box, such as Edge, Superchip, Bully Dog, and Diablosport. His chips range from one single file for $239, to a an amazing 16 position chip with every imaginable tune on it, for about $40 more per tune. I myself am going to get rid of the TS performance chip i have now, and get a DP tuner 8 or 9 position chip. so, lets say that a 6 position chip will cost around $450. You still have around $750 left after shipping. Want to keep going?

Read on.


-Now you will probably enounter some problems such as throwing a code when you really romp on the pedal. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) thinks that the truck is running a stock program still, so it sees an abnormally high boost level, and it will throw a code. The fix for this is to go to ITP Diesel, LLC, and buy a Overboost Regulator. It is about $45 or so, and it will get rid of this problem.

-Due to that chip adding more power to the engine, it has to force that power through the same transmission, that is not designed to handle the extra power. Call up Brian at BTS (brianstruckshop.com), and set up a custom-made transmission Valve Body. They run about $225, and if you tell Brian that you are running a Tipton chip, he can modify it custom for that chip. Also, tell Jody that you will be getting a BTS valve body (here we commonly call it a "BTS VB"), and he can tune the chip for the VB as well.

-A comfort mod is next, not one that produces power, but it makes the engine run smoother and quieter. there is a thing that is called a Stainless Steel High pressure Oil rail Crossover. It is a tube that adjoins the two oil rails (oil that is used to fire the injectors, 500psi-3000psi), and it acts as a shock absorber to make all 8 cylinders have relatively the same pressure. It is more expensive than a rubber version, but it's going to last forever, it's about $70. I believe you can get that at ITP when you buy that overboost regulator.

-Another comfort mod is to eliminate the quick-disconnect fittings on the suction-side of the fuel pump. The factory design has a crappy "mixing chamber" inside the tank, that lets air in the fuel, and the air in the fuel will cause the injectors to become louder, and it also shortens their life. Removing the Q/D's will also help prevent air from entering, as they work well under pressure, not so well under a suction. I believe this $40-70 mod can be purchased at ITP as well, a filter will be about $105 if added to the kit.

we have about $350 left.

-Your stock compressor wheel in the turbocharger will probably be hating life, as it tends to reach it's limit very quickly on the air it can push out of the turbo and into the engine, and it will shoot that air back out of the compressor, commonly called "surge". a cure for this is to install an aftermarket compressor wheel, designed to reduce or stop surge. it can be found cheapest at Xtreme Diesel Performance - XDP Diesel Performance Parts, for about $55.

While you are spending all of this money, i thought it would be nice to do some free or really cheap mods:

-rerouting the crankcase vent (CCV) to the atmosphere. the stock system reroutes this into the intake of the engine, and it's a dirty mess, as oil will seep out of the intercooler boots. You can do this mod for about $15, and the only thing i needed was a piece of 4" exhaust pipe, about 4" long, to replace the piece you remove. To get the gasses away from the engine, run a piece of 1/2" heater hose to whatever length you want it. I grew tired of the infamous cloud of mist coming out from under the truck, so i tied mine into my stacks. Look at the connector that is between your two rubber intake boots between the air filter and the turbo, you'll see what i mean.

Also, a FREE mod is to remove the foil on the driver's side intercooler pipe. It helps that whistle get a little louder, and it has no adverse affects. Disclaimer: it's a royal pain to get that stuff off. Let's spend some more money.

Some things that you want to keep track of, are transmission temps, and EGT temps. the transmission can get hot, so if you browse Ebay, you can get a 6.0L's transmission cooler (NEW) for about $100-125. installation is easy, several guys here have done it. The stock transmission cooler on these trucks sucks. I believe it is about the size of a keyboard. This new one is three times that size.

To reduce the EGT, a wise decision is to install another 6.0 part, this time an intercooler. It's a direct drop in, and some guys see a reduction in EGT of 100-150*, for about $100-150, again off ebay.

Well, i think this about depletes your fund. You will be out $2000, however the benefit in performance, and the massive grin on your face all the time is well worth the cost.

dang... thats a lot of stuff for that cash!!!!!
i have spent more and got a LOT less...lol
how much power would it be makin after that??
main thing is it will be makin that power SAFELY...
and all of those will boost the mpg's on the enoc. setting on the dp tuner wouldnt it??
think i could cross mid 20's on the econ. setting if i keep my rpm's under 2k??

and most of that stuff could be done in my yard. which is always a bonus!! lol
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:57 AM
  #70  
jdecker88's Avatar
jdecker88
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From: Powder Springs, East TN
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If you get the 2wd and drive it like a granny you got a good chance of getting 20 on the Hwy.

That set up will get you about 310-325HP well within the safe zone.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 03:20 PM
  #71  
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bdrummonds
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From: Millbrook Alabama
Originally Posted by 05chop
YOU said --i really like diesel, but as i said, i dont need it... i just wonder if im gonna regret it soon after purchase... i know there are many other factors to think of, i have most of those, this is the only thing i have left... deciding what kind of fuel i want...lol Well look at this would you rather change eight spark plugs or eight injectors when the time comes due? Oil changes cost more for the diesel right. No more than you are going to do with the truck go GASOLINE. If you decide to get all the toys to haul then go diesel for sure.

The only thing I see wrong with this logic is that plugs need to be changed regularly injectors are only when they fail. Yes I know that FOMOCO says 100K for plugs, but for arguments sake lets say he changes them at 80K. In 240K miles he has changed 30 plugs for the V10, and I am at 275K miles in my 7.3 and have never changed the injectors.

plug changes 30 of them in 240K
injectors changes 0 in 275K

oil changes for the diesel (at least for me) with regular Delo oil is the same price as my wifes 4.6l Expedition. Gas engine is 3000 miles per oil change, diesel is 6000 miles per change. The difference in price comes to a dollar or two, which is certainly negligible.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:07 PM
  #72  
tylerp's Avatar
tylerp
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
The only thing I see wrong with this logic is that plugs need to be changed regularly injectors are only when they fail. Yes I know that FOMOCO says 100K for plugs, but for arguments sake lets say he changes them at 80K. In 240K miles he has changed 30 plugs for the V10, and I am at 275K miles in my 7.3 and have never changed the injectors.

plug changes 30 of them in 240K
injectors changes 0 in 275K

oil changes for the diesel (at least for me) with regular Delo oil is the same price as my wifes 4.6l Expedition. Gas engine is 3000 miles per oil change, diesel is 6000 miles per change. The difference in price comes to a dollar or two, which is certainly negligible.

whew... for a second there i was thinkin that injectors were a maintnance part...lol

i still see no way for the gas to beat the deisel... at least for my purpose...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #73  
tylerp's Avatar
tylerp
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by jdecker88
If you get the 2wd and drive it like a granny you got a good chance of getting 20 on the Hwy.

That set up will get you about 310-325HP well within the safe zone.

i can live with that...lol

is that good power...
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 08:55 AM
  #74  
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by jdecker88
If you get the 2wd and drive it like a granny you got a good chance of getting 20 on the Hwy.
If it's flat without too much headwind I get 20+ on the highway.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 05:36 PM
  #75  
tylerp's Avatar
tylerp
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From: Homer, GA
Originally Posted by brian42
If it's flat without too much headwind I get 20+ on the highway.

thats what i like to hear.
and with that kind of power in a gasser, i might get 15mpg goin down a steep hill with a 35mph tailwind... in neutral...with the ignition off...lol
 
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