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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Starter Solenoid Connections

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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 06:27 PM
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Starter Solenoid Connections

Basic wiring 101:

Hot side of battery to front post of solenoid, starter drive to rear post of solenoid, alternator lead connects to front post also?
"I' and "S" posts on solenoid are for Ignition (Coil), and Switch (Ignition Switch) ?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 06:57 PM
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Tested solenoid and motor turns, reconnected red wire to "S" post and ignition switch and motor turns. Brown lead, also in main engine harness, is connected to "I".
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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camperspecial65
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Heres the full wiring of the starter relay ...

As installed with the smaller poles below the battery cable poles...

Front battery cable pole: Battery cable, yellow wire , black wire, black w/yellow stripe

Rear battery cable pole: Starter motor cable direct to motor.

'S' Pole: Red w/blue stripe...this runs directly to rear of ignition switch. This wire is one of the 3 integral with the rubber plug.

'I' Pole: Brown wire. This wire ultimately is also one of the 3 integral with the rubber plug for the ignition switch. This wire BEFORE it goes through the firewall splits off. This split wire is a red w/green stripe that ends up at the coil. After the brown wire goes thru the firewall it becomes the pink resistor wire which plugs into the green plug shortly before the rubber plug for the ignition switch.



This is from Ford wiring diagrams...not the book by Jim Osborn Reproductions.



- cs65
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by camperspecial65
Heres the full wiring of the starter relay ...

As installed with the smaller poles below the battery cable poles...

Front battery cable pole: Battery cable, yellow wire , black wire, black w/yellow stripe

Rear battery cable pole: Starter motor cable direct to motor.

'S' Pole: Red w/blue stripe...this runs directly to rear of ignition switch. This wire is one of the 3 integral with the rubber plug.

'I' Pole: Brown wire. This wire ultimately is also one of the 3 integral with the rubber plug for the ignition switch. This wire BEFORE it goes through the firewall splits off. This split wire is a red w/green stripe that ends up at the coil. After the brown wire goes thru the firewall it becomes the pink resistor wire which plugs into the green plug shortly before the rubber plug for the ignition switch.



This is from Ford wiring diagrams...not the book by Jim Osborn Reproductions.



- cs65
OK, the problem I am seeing is with the brown wire. With the key on, I am only seeing 6 volts on this wire. I see that you say the brown is common to the coil lead. I disconnected the coil lead and got my 12 volts at the brown lead. Should a coil be cutting the voltage that much?
Second problem, alternator not charging. New Motorcraft alt and voltage regulator. Could the coil be affecting this?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 06:20 PM
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The coil is not cutting the voltage, the resistor wire is. Depending on your ignition setup, you may need to bypass the pink wire with a wire directly from the ignition switch to the coil. Only do this if you are not using the original coil and points though. If you do bypass the pink wire, then you can just unplug the brown wire and leave it off as far as I know. On the back of the alternator you should have FLD to F on regulator and BAT to the battery side of the relay and to the A terminal on the regulator. The S terminal on the regulator needs to go to a key on power source like the hot side of the coil. Also check to make sure you have a solid and clean ground wire on both the alternator and the regulator (very important - it will not work without this).
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Orange '63
The coil is not cutting the voltage, the resistor wire is. Depending on your ignition setup, you may need to bypass the pink wire with a wire directly from the ignition switch to the coil. Only do this if you are not using the original coil and points though. If you do bypass the pink wire, then you can just unplug the brown wire and leave it off as far as I know. On the back of the alternator you should have FLD to F on regulator and BAT to the battery side of the relay and to the A terminal on the regulator. The S terminal on the regulator needs to go to a key on power source like the hot side of the coil. Also check to make sure you have a solid and clean ground wire on both the alternator and the regulator (very important - it will not work without this).
When I unplug the coil, I get the 12 volts on the brown lead at the starter solenoid. When I connect the coil, I only get 6 volts. The resistor wire is still in series both ways.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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Ok, check the voltage at the hot side of the coil. Is this also 6 volts? 6 volts at the coil is a little low but could be normal and to me would mean the resistor wire is functioning like it's supposed to. Will the truck start and run but just not charge? I think your charging problem is somewhere else.
 
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