Fordsflylow,

Did you notice a difference, power/exhaust tone, with the y-pipe over the old one?

 

Not as much regarding the power as I was expecting, but it was noticeable. I suspect it would show on a dyno, but how much!?! The tone was much better. A smidge louder due to the headers, but still a low grumble and not that loud. They run into a single flowmaster. I really like the sound. I'll try to get a sound clip someday and post.

 

Downs Ford has them for $279 and if you look in their forum you can email them for a cost discount code worth 10%. That's $251 bucks for a good stainless header.

I had a set on a Mustang (uncoated) and put 120,000 miles and 5 winters on them here in Michigan and never had a problem. I

The stainless they use is the same material used on the cat's.

Hurry if you want some because Ford isn't making them anymore (most sites say while suppiles last).

 

Excellent thanks for the tip
thx

 

Well I got my FMS headers installed today. Couldn't get the dip stick out so I unbolted the steering shaft at the gear box and pushed it up towards the cab. This gave me enough room to install the header from above on the drivers side and feed the dip stick thru the header pipes. Only other thing I removed was the Y-pipe. The Y-pipe bolted right back in.

Started on the Y-pipe for the eBay Y-pipe install. Hope to finish tomorrow.

 

That's exactly what I did for my eBay headers.

 

Wish I would have done that instead of pulling it out. I ended up breaking the tube off right where it goes into the block. I eventually got it out and a new tube put in but it wasn't fun.

 

Had an exhaust leak once I got the truck started on the pass. side header. Found a casting boss was hitting the header tube in the back (by the firewall) keeping the #4 & 5 from sealing. Went to unbolt the y-pipe at the converter flange and my new stainless hardware won't come off. WTF! Luckily the upper came out but the two bottom bolts I had to cut off. Threads looked OK, not sure what the problem was.

OK got the y-pipe off and the header out. The FMS exhaust gasket is junk, all the material over the metal core is gone at the leak point on #4 & 5. Being Easter Sunday after 5 pm nothing is open to get a replacement. Now there are two rectangular bosses cast into the rear of the head (actually I think there are a couple in the front also) at the valve cover lip. The header was only hitting the rear most boss but I did both just to be sure it would fit is time. I also cut down the dip stick mount boss (for the oil dip stick if the head is used on the other side of the block). I just used a thin cut off wheel on my right angle grinder and slowly milled it down until it was flush with the valve cover lip. Make sure to stuff paper towel in the exhaust ports before grinding.
Got a set of FelPro gaskets, much better than the FMS that came with the kit. I did not replace the other side, I my regret that later but we’ll see.
All went back together OK and used some regular grade 5 bolts for the converter flange.
I was worried because when it had the leak it sounded awful, just like a V6. But with everything sealed up it sounds great. You can hear the headers and y-pipe in the cab but I think it sounds good, better than that flutter crap.
The seat of the pants dyno says much better, from a standing start it will spin/hop the tires (I have a Detroit locker) for about 4 feet. Before it would just bog down and go, no spin.
As a side note I ordered and installed the stainless version of the eBay y-pipe because the stock y-pipe is stainless steel also. I used 308L 0.030” wire with a helium mix on my mig welder. My local welding supply rented me a small bottle for the job. I did a little practice on the piece I cut out to dial in the welder settings. With everything in position on the truck I tacked it up and then removed it from the truck to finish the welding (not that good welding on my back).
Very happy with both the headers and the y-pipe, now I just need a new muffler and tail pipe to give it a little sound.

 

Yeah that's exact what I figured would happen to me if I kept pulling and twisting it.

 

I remembered that trick from your thread Krewat!

 

My dip stick came out in one piece, but it was a pita getting it out. Went back in okay but had to be bent a smidge due to the thickness of the header where she bolts on to the head.

 

Guess I better get off my a$$ and buy some now.

 

Is that 270 something for one side, or is that for both?

 

It's for both!

 

Anyone know who's making headers and Y-pipe for the 05 and up V10's? (3V)