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thin wall ..i think its a 10MM socket..and a piece of rubber hose to slide over the end of the glow plug..i used a vacume hose off of gas car..(my girlfriends truck when she wasnt looking lol) with the socket break the GP loose..take socket out..you may need to wiggle to get it out..it will get stuck under the rocker arm..you may need to turn it back in a little more..once the socket is out..slip your tube over the GP and spin it out...other way around to put them in...
question....why not go with an aftermarket? I know I won't but want to know why. also how much room am I going to have when taking off the valve covers? How much working room under the covers?
A really good set of sockets with universal joints, wobble extensions etc. will help you while getting the valve cover bolts out. In particular the rear most bolt on the driver side is tight. I think I used a 2" extension and a universal joint with a standard socket. You'll have to remove a few things first, like the intercooler tubes on both sides, but there's plenty of room to work once the valve covers are off.
Do a search, there are some really good tutorials on the site for GP replacement / valve cover removal.
Also, what Ryan said about the 10mm deep socket. I used a 1/4" drive socket as it was smaller overall and seemed to fit in there best.
And while you're in there, re-torque the rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft-lbs, and the lower injector hold down bolt to 120 in-lbs. It's also a convenient time to shim the UVCH connector.
some cheap after market Glow plugs swell up in the heads or the tips break off..that means pulling the heads to fish them out..the ZD-11 have been proven..you dont need to go a ford dealer to get motorcrafts..alot of of parts shacks have them..
I got my zd-11s on ebay. Like 50 bucks for the set or something. Do a search and you will find them. Like the guys said, rocker arm retorque, and retorque the injector hold down bolts too. Mine were all loose, some even as much as almost two turns.