cold starting problems.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
Likes: 5
From: Kiowa CO
I think I paid a little higher - like $190 - but depends on where you are at. Easy fix though. Unhook batteries, loosen the serp belt, unplug the one wire harness, loosen three bolts and remove. Reverse order for install.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 340
Likes: 2
From: Colorado foot hills
I am wintering in SW New Mexico. It has not been below 32 degrees for some time. I have had difficulty starting my '01 F250, 7.3L diesel twice now. I let the glow plug light go out and try to start. It will fire very briefly then stop. This happened to the point, this AM, that I squirted a 1/2 sec. of starting fluid into the intake. It started right up. Am I perhaps looking at a glow plug problem? Thanx for the input.
That stuff is just plain dangerous. Your GPR will stay activated for up to 2 minutes. I always wait at least 30 seconds before I crank when it is below ~45. The extra heat in the GPs really helps with cranking a cold motor. If it is really cold, let the GPR cycle completely then turn the key off the on for a second cycle. That will add extra heat in the cylinders and make cranking a lot easier.Have you checked your GPR? That'll cause your issue also.
Give it a try, it really helps.
jer
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 340
Likes: 2
From: Colorado foot hills
actually it's on the top of the motor.
Take off the plastic trim thingy on the front of the motor and it's the big *** round relay right behind on the passenger front side of the motor. Easy to spot has 4 lug connections on the top, three of which have large guage wires connected. The other connection is the signal lead from the PCM. The relay is controlled by the computer.
hope that helps, go to napa and they'll show you one if you're unsure of what your're looking for.
easy to change, common failure.
jer
Take off the plastic trim thingy on the front of the motor and it's the big *** round relay right behind on the passenger front side of the motor. Easy to spot has 4 lug connections on the top, three of which have large guage wires connected. The other connection is the signal lead from the PCM. The relay is controlled by the computer.
hope that helps, go to napa and they'll show you one if you're unsure of what your're looking for.
easy to change, common failure.
jer
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
not trying to be a azz ..but you will get better help by starting a new thread..some times if you have 2 differnt questions in one mans thread.it makes things hard to fallow...
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
yup the alternater is shot.just tride to go to town, and i had to turnaround because my dash lights were getting dimmer and so wernt my head lights.my voltedge meter was also dropping.how much doone of things things cost.probly a dumb question but this is my first diesle so i dont no if it would be more exspensive than a gas motor alternater.
Thread Starter
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Temporarily Deactivated
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 613
Likes: 25
From: Ky
Dude, you are having a real bad day. I hope the wife doesn't run off with the mailman or some chit. Anyway, I would ideally like to test it with a VM to make sure it is the alternator and not toasted batteries. Make sure wiring is good, and before replacing it, remove both batteries and the alternator and have them all tested. It would suck to buy a new alternator only to have chitty batteries run it into the ground. I hope things get better for you bro.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,515
Likes: 0
From: Jonestown PA
Plus I would never rev a cold motor to try and get a cylinder to fire. You could be looking for more problems. Molasses doesn't flow to well when cold. And to have fuel on the ground you must have stabed the thottle pretty good.
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Temporarily Deactivated
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 613
Likes: 25
From: Ky
i waited for the temp gauge to go up before i reved it up.And when i reved it up i held it about 1500 rpm.
