injector questions
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From: Redwood Valley, CA
injector questions
I remember reading a while back about plunger and barrel issues in an injector. I have a miss at idle and the truck acts like it is loading up while coasting. Once you get back on the throttle it hiccups and all is well again. I have done a cylinder contribution test and the #5 cyl. comes up as problematic. Ironically the #5 has a Recon injector from Ford. The truck used to belong to a friend of mine and he has had a few of the injectors replaced all recons and all from different companies. Also I noticed that the engine will surge irratically while idling and hot then go back to normal. My question is what are the symptoms of a broken nozzle or bad plungers and barrels and if that is even my problem.
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From: Redwood Valley, CA
Also I forgot to add that when I run a biodiesel blend the truck runs very noticably smoother. Anytime I put an additive in the diesel or run bio the injectors quiet down and the truck runs a bit better.
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From: Gifford, IL
Thats one of the benefits of biodiesel. It has a significantly higher cetance value than #2. Pump diesel is between 42-44, but bio can be from 46-70, depending on the feedstock. Thats why your engine will run smoother and quieter and bio
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From: Osceola, IN
is there anything you have to do to run B20 in our OBS trucks? Do you need to mix it with #2? Been thinking of running b20 there's a place that sells it close to me, what if any advantages does it hold? Any gains in MPG?
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B20 is mixed with #2 and there is nothing you need to do to run it. The biggest advantage to BD is it burns cleaner and has much more lubrication for the injectors than #2. There will probably be no MPG increase as BD actually has less BTU than diesel while its cetane rating is higher
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i talked to jim at rosewood diesel a few days ago about the old injectors in my truck and he said it had all 8 injectors had bad plungers and barrells but my truck didn't do what your talking about. i didn't ask about the nozzles
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From: Redwood Valley, CA
I also resealed the IPR and when I had the Buzz test done, had the IPR %DC checked and the mechanic said that there were no problems there. He thought the orings were ok on the injectors, but that either the new injector in #5 was bad or I had a compression issue in that cylinder. I rigged up a compression tester from a hollowed out glowplug and a compression tester I had. The numbers I got showed that #5 was no different than the others on the same bank. This has led me to believe that I have an injector problem not necessarily a compression issue. The reason I was curious about the plunger and barrel info was because I don't want to get soaked with repair charges on the cores if I get reman injectors. If this is the case I think I'll just save up and buy new injectors from rosewood.
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From: Gifford, IL
You can run B100 without having to do any modifications. I would change the fuel filter if its been awhile and keep a spare with you in the truck. Bio is a very good solvent and has been known to clean out your fuel tank and fill up a fuel filter, but i have yet to have this problem after 10k miles on B100.
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From: North East Ohio
I remember reading a while back about plunger and barrel issues in an injector. I have a miss at idle and the truck acts like it is loading up while coasting. Once you get back on the throttle it hiccups and all is well again. I have done a cylinder contribution test and the #5 cyl. comes up as problematic. Ironically the #5 has a Recon injector from Ford. The truck used to belong to a friend of mine and he has had a few of the injectors replaced all recons and all from different companies. Also I noticed that the engine will surge irratically while idling and hot then go back to normal. My question is what are the symptoms of a broken nozzle or bad plungers and barrels and if that is even my problem.
Broken nozzle will pump out lots of white smoke and have a knock, so it doesn't sound like that's your problem.
It could be Plunger & Barrels. Those usually wear over time with a continual loss of power until one day the truck is about dead.
Most often a miss at idle is due to worn Poppet Valve clearances on the top of the injector. There are many different 'Reman' companies out there that work on the PSD injectors (not counting us enthusiasts you'll find online) and I have only come across one 'brand' that actually rebuilds them correctly. Most do NOT address this issue and just throw new parts into an injector with a worn, out of spec Poppet valve.
I absolutely cringe when I get reman injectors in to work on.
My general rule of thumb is that if one of your injectors needs replacing, you need to seriously consider having them all worked on. Generally, one won't wear more than the others. They all fire the same amount, burn the same fuel, use the same motor oil, etc.
Let me know how I can help.
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From: Redwood Valley, CA
DZLJIM
I am having a knocking problem and a smoking problem. My other PSD's never smoked like this one has been. It always fires up in the morning even well below freezing. Though, you will start to see white unburnt diesel smoke if you coast down a long grade, let it idle for prolonged periods of time, and at start up it smokes like no other I've seen. No offense to Joe and the others that have posted video clips of their trucks at start up, but this truck I've got now literally blocks out the sun for a good 5 minutes across my whole block. Whether, the truck needs injectors or an overhaul, I am thinking I will throw injectors in it first, since I will need them in a new engine anyhow. Also, Jim I know that this truck was in a wreck on the passenger side that involved a fire and #1  injectors are remans, #3 & #7 are factory, but have partially melted solenoids. All injectors are operating acording to the buzz test. How many clams am I looking at to go through these injectors and do you think it would be better to go new or have you build them for me?
I am having a knocking problem and a smoking problem. My other PSD's never smoked like this one has been. It always fires up in the morning even well below freezing. Though, you will start to see white unburnt diesel smoke if you coast down a long grade, let it idle for prolonged periods of time, and at start up it smokes like no other I've seen. No offense to Joe and the others that have posted video clips of their trucks at start up, but this truck I've got now literally blocks out the sun for a good 5 minutes across my whole block. Whether, the truck needs injectors or an overhaul, I am thinking I will throw injectors in it first, since I will need them in a new engine anyhow. Also, Jim I know that this truck was in a wreck on the passenger side that involved a fire and #1  injectors are remans, #3 & #7 are factory, but have partially melted solenoids. All injectors are operating acording to the buzz test. How many clams am I looking at to go through these injectors and do you think it would be better to go new or have you build them for me?
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From: North East Ohio
Injector problem vs. motor problem, could be hard to differentiate. Like you said, Injectors probably need done anyway and it should be obvious during injector rebuild if there was something catastrophic with them.
Cost depends on your check book (or credit card limit) and what you want to get out of them.
If the truck has 200k miles and you want to go another 200k miles, your best option is to buy new. Otherwise just about any injector can be rebuilt, unless the Poppet won't seat anymore, then it needs to be replaced.
Cost options from me for Stock or Stage-1 for AA's:
New $1700, 1 year warranty.
Premium $1385, 1 year warranty and new P&B's and Nozzles. (Stage-2 Premium cost the same and are the best value for your dollar.)
Regular $650, 6 month warranty, all good used parts.
Budget Build $500, 60 day warranty, good used parts.
On the regular and Budget I do not warranty used nozzles, there's just no way to know how badly stressed they are and if/when they'll go.
Cost depends on your check book (or credit card limit) and what you want to get out of them.
If the truck has 200k miles and you want to go another 200k miles, your best option is to buy new. Otherwise just about any injector can be rebuilt, unless the Poppet won't seat anymore, then it needs to be replaced.
Cost options from me for Stock or Stage-1 for AA's:
New $1700, 1 year warranty.
Premium $1385, 1 year warranty and new P&B's and Nozzles. (Stage-2 Premium cost the same and are the best value for your dollar.)
Regular $650, 6 month warranty, all good used parts.
Budget Build $500, 60 day warranty, good used parts.
On the regular and Budget I do not warranty used nozzles, there's just no way to know how badly stressed they are and if/when they'll go.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
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