'95 F250 7.3 PSD....would cutting and bending the firewall prior to taking out the stock dp avoid having to cut the stock dp in 2???



mojo simple is always best

 

doubt it, you really cant get the the parts of the firewall to bend with the pipe in place

 

easy way...cut it. if clearance is what you want.... drop the tranny, then tilt engine down just a bit, careful not to let the fan hit the rad.


But the easy way...cut it

 

I was just forward thinkin'...thanks for the responses...guess I better sharpen up on the sawz-all...



mojo

 

long blades will help a lot. i only had short ones and it took several small cuts (and bent blades) to get mine out. still easier than moving the tranny.

 

Sawzall, and good 8" blades. 6" is a bit too short. Don't waste your time messing around with anything else. You don't need to be fussy where the cut is. Basic idea is to get the "horizontal" section, that connects to the EBPV, off, then the "vertical" section should just drop down. Most directions say cut as close to the block as you dare, but I didn't see that as critical. Just cut off that horizontal section, above and to driver's side of the bend.

I suggest leaving the downpipe bolted in place for better stability while you cut.

As for the floor and firewall... it sounds like how big of a job that is depends on how your truck was assembled within cab and engine location tolerances. Some guys seem to have gotten by with not much more than just bending the firewall/floor flange; I had to beat a dent in the firewall and around the flange. It seems like if your engine is mounted on the forward end of tolerances and the cab on the rear end, you'll have better clearances and less "persuading" to get adequate clearance for the new downpipe. If the cab is forward and the engine is back... PITA. Mine was a PITA... what I ended up using was a short little air hammer with a blunted chisel to peen a dent in the firewall and flange. This was after cutting and bending the flange, and a good bit of time with a portapower kit.

After you get the old downpipe out, drop in the new downpipe and see how much clearance you have (or don't have), before attacking the sheet metal. You might get lucky... or not.

 

Sawzall works pretty good, but a plasma torch is way faster and easier on your arms.

Paddler, did you come in from the top with that air hammer? I need to do some more work on my fabbed up pipe.

 

I actually worked from both top and bottom... I needed extra clearance all the way down the firewall and around and underneath the flange.

So... I got a short little air hammer, short chisel, and ground down the tip of the chisel. Dropped the hammer in from the top, between the valve cover/head and the firewall, and kept the chisel axis close to horizontal. Idea is to peen the firewall back, not slice into it. I also had to do the same thing on the firewall from below, but the hammer could go alonside the block & oil pan. Beating a dent around the flange and part of the floor was fairly accessible, though I did tear up the heat shield (air hammer, sawzall on the flange, portapower, hand sledge & drift... should have cut the flange and gone right to the air hammer).

 

I started with a 2x4 from the top and bent the flange just enough to slide a sizzor jack from my wife's camry in. wedged it between the bell housing and wall and cranked it open. when you think yuo have enough clearnece do it some more. Nothing more anoying the dp vibrating on the wall or tranny and having to pull it back out and open it up some more--personal experience!

 

Very good ideas boys. I wish I would have done that when I installed my pipe. The only problem now is that my two pieces are welded together and I get a vibration when I rolling down the highway at 70+ mph. It's very annoying....

 

Is any of the firewall / floor bending noticeable inside the cab, or is this up high where it's hidden by the dash?

 

I can't see anything and I bent the crap out of it the second time around!