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Yes, your Truck does not have the up-scoop and all you need is the block off plate. just slide it between the EGR cooler and the up-pipe. No welding required. Once you have installed it you will not have any more EGR problems.
How does this stop you from having EGR problems in the future? I guess I am just not getting how this will benefit.
With the EGR blocked the ehaust is blocked from entering the EGR cooler. The EGR cooler is known to fail because of the hot exhaust melting the solder holding it together. When the hot exhaust is cooled the heat is directed into the Right head causing a heating issue(mine did). When the cooler fails your engine sucks antifreeze in to intake causing you to over heat and other serious failures. Exhaust, when it enters the intake it cloggs everthing up making a huge mess everwhere. On a gass motor the EGR is only used when the motor is cold, helping it to warm up. On a diesel it is emission thing, not! I get my truck tested every year and it runs cleaner with it blocked off.
With the EGR blocked the ehaust is blocked from entering the EGR cooler. The EGR cooler is known to fail because of the hot exhaust melting the solder holding it together. When the hot exhaust is cooled the heat is directed into the Right head causing a heating issue(mine did). When the cooler fails your engine sucks antifreeze in to intake causing you to over heat and other serious failures. Exhaust, when it enters the intake it cloggs everthing up making a huge mess everwhere. On a gass motor the EGR is only used when the motor is cold, helping it to warm up. On a diesel it is emission thing, not! I get my truck tested every year and it runs cleaner with it blocked off.
Ok, this makes since now. I guess my only question now is; now that the EGR is blocked, this also stops the heat from being directed to the right head. Does this help with the head gasket problem?
Yes, I believe so, I have heard of Head Gaskets blowing with the EGR blocked (chipped trucks mainly). Your chance of failure is reduced by 99% with the EGR blocked off. This is kind of a band-aid fix for now but the whole EGR delete is much better. I have been searching for threads on EGR cooler failure after it being blocked off, there are none.
Ok, this makes since now. I guess my only question now is; now that the EGR is blocked, this also stops the heat from being directed to the right head. Does this help with the head gasket problem?
From what I've read ARP'S or Elite Diesel studs is one the best ways to combat HG's along with EGR DELETE!
Yes, I believe so, I have heard of Head Gaskets blowing with the EGR blocked (chipped trucks mainly). Your chance of failure is reduced by 99% with the EGR blocked off. This is kind of a band-aid fix for now but the whole EGR delete is much better. I have been searching for threads on EGR cooler failure after it being blocked off, there are none.
One question if thats the case of the block off plate does it lower EGT's ? I would think so because of the exhaust is running through the motor again. Like I said just a question?
Since this has been brought up a number of times in here, are the head bolts a recall since so many people are having problems or is Ford just replacing when needed under warranty?
Since this has been brought up a number of times in here, are the head bolts a recall since so many people are having problems or is Ford just replacing when needed under warranty?
No they isn't a recall and they still put the same piece of crap bolts in they say they have been updated but IMO arp's is the only way to go
Since this has been brought up a number of times in here, are the head bolts a recall since so many people are having problems or is Ford just replacing when needed under warranty?
The problem with the headbolts are they were not torqued correctly from the factory. This has been stated on this forum by Ford Mechanics. I'm sure if ARP headstuds were not torqued correctly they would stand a chance of failing too. I would really like to see how many people have stretched their stock bolts after they have been fixed, making sure the heads are flat etc. I have put on over 20,000 miles since my truck had this problem. I drive it hard, 25-29psi of boost daily. I have stock bolts. I really believe the main issue is the correct torquing of the bolts more than the bolts themselves.
Well the dealer called last night and said my truck was ready. He advised they changed the EGR cooler and when they ran it, the truck ran rough. They did some diagnostic and found a bad #7 injector. I have never had a running problem, so I am curious as to why it did this. Anyways I am picking the truck up this morning and hope all is well. Thanks for every one's input on this post.
Well the dealer called last night and said my truck was ready. He advised they changed the EGR cooler and when they ran it, the truck ran rough. They did some diagnostic and found a bad #7 injector. I have never had a running problem, so I am curious as to why it did this. Anyways I am picking the truck up this morning and hope all is well. Thanks for every one's input on this post.
Now is the perfect time to do the EGR Blocker plate, your EGR cooler should now out last your Truck.
Well the dealer called last night and said my truck was ready. He advised they changed the EGR cooler and when they ran it, the truck ran rough. They did some diagnostic and found a bad #7 injector. I have never had a running problem, so I am curious as to why it did this. Anyways I am picking the truck up this morning and hope all is well. Thanks for every one's input on this post.
What about the oil cooler? Did they check to see if the flow of coolant in the oil cooler is restricted due to casting sand? If it is you will have more egr cooler failures.
I guess that is my next question. It looks like I can buy the blocker plate for $35.00 and that is all I need to do. Does this sound right?
Yes, if I remember you have a 2004? The blocker plate is easy to install, just remove the EGR cooler clamp. The Blocker plate should just slide in between the up-pipe and the cooler with a little wedge like a small screw driver. Button it back up and you are in business.
I had to install the new up-pipe because I had the up-scoop on mine.