I have noticed that when I fill my truck, my gauge does not go all the way to the full mark. So I do not let it go very far down to the empty side of it. My truck was converted to 12v by a PO so not sure how it was done. The gas gauge is the only stock gauge working.

 

On a vehicle with a non working fuel guage I record the fill up mileage, it gives me an idea of the fuel level.

 

Does anyone else have any ideas what is going on? I was wondering if it is that the gauge is a 6 volt and the truck is now 12 volt.

 

you'll need to check the fuel float sending unit these came either 6v or 12v...most likely you still have the 6v...headlight switch...which needs to be changed out for a 12v switch, or go to your local auto parts and buy several porcilin reducers...to place "in line." your heater motor and wiper mots are also, 6v which need reducers as well to run...all bulbs need to be 12v as well

 

low54, my lights, heater motor and wiper motor are 12 volt. Not sure about the light switch. All this was done by a PO. They put aftermarket temp, oil and battery under the dash. Is there one porclin reducer that can be put in line for the stock guages?

 

The fuel gauge will need to have a dropping resistor attached between the positive terminal and the positive wire supply power to the gauge. This type of dropping resistor is available from most of the classic truck parts suppliers for about $10.00. you can also use this application for your positive wrie into your light switch

 

The same issue that affects the 1957/79 fuel sending unit float, also affects the 1936/56 float.

The float is made of two pieces of copper soldered together.

Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float slowly settles to the bottom of the tank.

Dennis Carpenter has the float listed on page 41 of his catalog.

 

HI Pappy,

Well it's been a long time since we all had the fuel gauge/sending unit debate! You guys a slackin' off.

You can use the stock gauge and sending unit in you 53 if it has been converted to 12 volt as long as the sending unit was manufactured to go with that particular gauge. There are lots of guys who want to measure the ohmage spread and steel sending units off some hulk and try an make it match, but trust me on this - use the sending unit built for the gauge.
It can be done, but it's apain to match and often the ranges are different.


If you have both the stock gauge and sending unit, all you need to do with the 12 volt conversion is install this little voltage drop resistor (it is one of many types) on the back of your gauge. Mine is done that way and it works perfectly.

Here's the picture and part number from C&G:



Also, as I recall one of my very first posts - a million years ago, was about how to calibrate your gauge after you install the voltage drop. It was necessary for me to do mine and it did the same thing as you report - didn't quite go to full. It was my "'World Famous' Cardboard Box Fuel Gauge Calibration Technique." tee hee - I'll try and find it and repost the link. It works - 100%

I'm not sure many folks realize this but the 48-56 Ford Fuel gauges "Full" and "Empty" needle postions on the are adjustable. There is a small hole in the back of the gauge and little tiny alligators teeth inside there that you can insert a small screw driver and adjust the needle.

So, If you want to, you can make your fuel gauge very accurate - if you feel like fooling with it. With mine I got it to a point where I could tell when it hit's "centered on empty" I have two gallons or 25 miles on the odometer to go. I've deliberately run it out of gas about 4 times just to check, and it is within 1/2 mile EVERY time. (It's also run out of gas at 25 miles the other half dozen time I've forgotten to get gas when it was showing empty - tee hee)

Here is the link read post #13 - good luck:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...m-a-idiot.html

Julie

 

Thank you for your comments. My computer is down, bad hard drive I believe. I am posting from work.

 

NAPA has a ceramic resistor that I was wondering if all the gauges could be attached to?

 

usually the ceramic ones are the best , and most of the time like the one in julie's pic , one per gauge or ..... mid fifty sells one to do the whole cluster , but you still gotta get a seperate one for the sending unit me thinks .........

 

Well, the siganl flo wpath of th epower to the gauges goes to the gauges first then out to ground through the sending units. You should be able to use a single ceramic unit such as a "Vol-ta-drop" but they usually work best at about 5 maps - which throws a lot of fluctuation at gauges. The unit at MId Fifties sounds good but I'm not familiar with it. You shouldn't need extra pieces for the sending units as the voltage is stepped down before it reaches the gauge and runs through to ground (with a given impedance to "indicate") via the sending unit.

Julie