Testing an IPR?
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Testing an IPR?
I think I have a failed <acronym title=" Injection Pressure Regulator "></acronym>IPR and want to confirm by testing it. Is it as simple as hooking up 12V to it and seeing if the solenoid moves? Thanks.
Fleet Owner
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The IPR valve (drivers side, just underneath the up-pipe) is basically a solenoid and if 12 volts is applied, it would close the valve. The IPR harness is frequently found to be chaffed and, if it is, should be replaced. The IPR is controlled by the PCM and contains the 4000 psig high pressure oil relief valve.
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Elder User
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Yea, I have it out and on the bench. 12V applied to it does nothing. I checked the harness and it has 12V going to it, so at first glance I think the harness is ok. So I guess this thing is bad since nothing happens when 12V is applied.
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Elder User
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Yea, I made sure it was hooked up correctly by seeing which wire had 12V to it, and which was ground on the IPR harness. Matched the + and - up on the IPR, hooked it up to a 12V battery and got nothing. Tried several times, also tried it with the wires reversed to make sure I wasnt hooking them up backwards, still no click.
Fleet Owner
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I also had this bookmarked (haven't experienced it though so I am only assuming it is correct):
Erratic supply of high pressure oil to injectors may cause a rough running engine. High pressure oil flow can be disrupted by faulty check valve(s) or a faulty IPR valve.
To diagnose, first perform a slow neutral run up in park/neutral. If the engine runs rough between 1200 and 1900 RPM proceed to Check Valve Diagnosis; if the engine runs rough between 3000 and 4000 RPM replace the IPR valve.
Edit -
Also -
Check Valve Diagnosis
To isolate the bank with the faulty check valve, disconnect all of the injector electrical connectors on one bank.
Perform a Power Balance test. Engine misfires should be constant on the four disconnected cylinders and the operational cylinders should be contributing evenly.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the opposite bank.
If the operating contribution is erratic on one bank, replace the check valve on that bank.
Erratic supply of high pressure oil to injectors may cause a rough running engine. High pressure oil flow can be disrupted by faulty check valve(s) or a faulty IPR valve.
To diagnose, first perform a slow neutral run up in park/neutral. If the engine runs rough between 1200 and 1900 RPM proceed to Check Valve Diagnosis; if the engine runs rough between 3000 and 4000 RPM replace the IPR valve.
Edit -
Also -
Check Valve Diagnosis
To isolate the bank with the faulty check valve, disconnect all of the injector electrical connectors on one bank.
Perform a Power Balance test. Engine misfires should be constant on the four disconnected cylinders and the operational cylinders should be contributing evenly.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the opposite bank.
If the operating contribution is erratic on one bank, replace the check valve on that bank.
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Truck will not run at all right now. Ran great one day, wouldnt run the next. Finally started after performing a KOEO test which cycled all the relays and solenoids under the hood. Truck started immediately, ran for 15 min at idle, then died (still at idle while moving down the driveway). 15 sec. before the truck shut down, the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0. Now the truck will not build any oil pressure in the LPO system, but it will fill the oil filter housing in a hurry so I assume the LPOP is still working. Oil pressure relief valve seemed to be ok, spring was still in one piece, and the relief valve slid smoothly in the bore. I have read that a failed IPR will cause a no oil pressure condition in the HPO and LPO systems, so this is where I am at now.
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Well there is no labor costs, its only parts, and I have a good connection through my International dealer, so even parts arent bad, its just a hassle. If the HPOP were going bad, or is bad, i am surprised the IPR is bad at the same time..... but who knows.
Fleet Owner
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If you do have to go after the HPOP, I have some links to threads I just found w/ some good pics.
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I will definitely inspect the harness very closely, and using a helper, tweak and bend the harness every way I can while monitoring the output with a voltmeter. The IPR will be here Wed. Thanks for the help.
Fleet Owner
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Could you have a couple of problems at the same time? Could your ICP be bad? The engine will not start until the PCM reads 500 psi from the ICP. The truck should start when you disconnect the ICP (if it is the problem).
Also, I'm sure you know - low or no oil pressure could be caused by the oil pressure regulator, gerotor oil pump or an internal lube oil pressure leak (if you think the LPO system "low pressure reading" is real).
Also, I'm sure you know - low or no oil pressure could be caused by the oil pressure regulator, gerotor oil pump or an internal lube oil pressure leak (if you think the LPO system "low pressure reading" is real).
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I appreciate you sticking with this thread....
I have pulled the EOP switch out, and replaced it with a mechanical gauge, which is still reading 0 after multiple cranking attempts. ICP could be bad, I did try unplugging it and starting it, with no change.
I did pull the LPO regulator out and looked at it. The spring was in one piece, straight and still strong (i didnt have a length spec to match it against however). The valve itself slid smoothly in the bore, so I put it all back together. With the oil filter housing being filled when I crank it, I am thinking that the LPOP is working, at least somewhat. I hope there are no internal LPO leaks, but I have not looked into the problem further to verify this.
The fact that the IPR does not move at all when being fed 12V gives me hope that this is the problem.
I have pulled the EOP switch out, and replaced it with a mechanical gauge, which is still reading 0 after multiple cranking attempts. ICP could be bad, I did try unplugging it and starting it, with no change.
I did pull the LPO regulator out and looked at it. The spring was in one piece, straight and still strong (i didnt have a length spec to match it against however). The valve itself slid smoothly in the bore, so I put it all back together. With the oil filter housing being filled when I crank it, I am thinking that the LPOP is working, at least somewhat. I hope there are no internal LPO leaks, but I have not looked into the problem further to verify this.
The fact that the IPR does not move at all when being fed 12V gives me hope that this is the problem.