I have a couple of questions on the steering columns of these fine trucks.

Background: I'm working on a '48 F4 that has had an engine/tranny transplant (302/AOD) and a power steering box from who knows where installed. These mods were done before I got the truck. I want the truck to look stock from the outside and interior and so I'd like to use the stock steering column in the restoration. So here are my questions:

1) what is the distance between the column support bracket (part that bolts to the dash and holds the column) and the top of the column tube (right under the steering wheel)?

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2) what should I use to support the column where it comes through the floor board?

3) looking at the following pictures, it is obvious I need to use some universal joints to mate the steering box to the steering column, and I've seen a column support bearing in a vendor catalog, have any of you used one of these? Also, would it be prudent to use a vibration dampner on the column?

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Thanks in advance for the help. I've learned a lot from you all.

David

 

Here's the images, you had a few extra [img]s & https stuck in:







I don't have an answer to your questions, I don't have much experience in modifications but I'm sure someone will be along soon who does.

 

Hi David,

I think I can answer some of these for you. Also, there have been a couple other threads about this so maybe you can get some infor by using the search function as well.

BTW when you copy the "http//" code on the little box that pops up when you want to copy pictures from your gallery, be sure to past over the http// that come up in the box to paste the URL into. Having http// twice is what is "x-ing" out your pictures (I can tell because the duplicate [img] shows up as it has above. Ok back to steering columns, see my inserts above.

Good Luck,
Julie

Edit note: AH Bobby got the pictures to post while I was typing. Not a stock steering box. You are going to have to emplace some sort of bracket from the steering tube and shaft where it comes out to the frame to hold it in place. as far as connecting then to the pump, I'm not sure either. I'd try the search thing under "Search this Forum" on the page were the threads are listed. At least then you can get a feel for other folks who hav edone this and perhaps send them a few notes asking the "how did's."

 

Thank you Bob for correcting my poor picture posting. Sorry about that; I even reread the picture posting thread you wrote. DOH!

And thanks Julie for your comments, now that Bob has my pictures up it should make more sense now. When I got the truck, the column and wheel were gone and the steering head was replaced by a power steering head of unknown origin, although it is a Ford part. I got the column and wheel from the Moultrie, GA swap meet back in November. Someone had torched it off of the original steering box. I'll definitely do search on the forums to see what others have done.

thanks to all....

 

Hi, It looks like you may have to shorten the column abit because the anlges between the steering box and column seem severe. When I was at Fords we used a figure of 30 deg included angle for the intermediate shaft to column/box. You don't really want any lumps in your steering.

Chuck

 

There are several options for the column floor support depending on the look you want and your ambition/pocketbook:
Aftermarket aluminum billet support available from several sources. These are very clean and slick with a ball and socket type arrangement to adjust to the angle between the column and floor. They also work well to seal the hole and finish off carpeted floors.
Aftermarket steel supports with a plate for the floor and a tube/clamp arrangement for the column. This will give a simpler "factory" type look when painted for rubber floor mats and/or carpet.
Homemade solutions:
Build one similar to the steel aftermarket ones with a piece of (exhaust?) tubing that slips over column welded to a plate for the floor. You will need to jig in place and tack to get the right angle.
"Low budget solution" is to go to the hardware store and buy 3 steel "L" braces ~ 1- 1 1/2" long on each leg and a worm type hose clamp. Place them on the floor against the column equidistant arount the column. Adjust the vertical leg angle to match floor-column angle and bolt or screw horizontal leg to the floor. wrap hose clamp around column over the vertical legs of the L's and tighten securely. Remenber to seal the joint between the column and floor air tight to prevent exhaust fumes from entering the cab. Putty like rope caulk sold at automotive paint and parts stores works well, is paintable, and lasts.

 

Under one of the bolts that holds the sector shaft cover to the P/S steering gearbox is a Ford ID tag.

If the tag is still there, post the ID code from it.

The pictured P/S gearbox resembles the Saginaw type used on 1971/73 Mustangs, 1973/76 Ford Torino's, Bronco's and 1977/79 T-Birds.

 

You may want to add spacers under the box mount/bolts if possible to rotate the box so the input shaft is pointing more at the column end to reduce the angle. You can compensate for that rotaion by removing and replacing the pitman arm back on the shaft rotated a few splines. I'd also recommend checking that the box steers in the correct direction when turned before proceeding.

 

NumberDummy, here are the part numbers I saw on the steering box.

- On the body itself under the splined shaft: E4AO 3A587A1
- On the tag bolted to the box: SPA DX 90A 29B

At least that is what I think they are. It is difficult reading upside down.

Also, here are a few more pictures from underneath the truck.
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As for the other comments on supporting the column tube, I believe I follow them and I'll definitely check into each one.

 

Merc546: yeah, I was thinking I'd probably have to shorten the column shaft, but as you can imagine I wanted to get a game plan before I started cutting.

AXracer: I definitely going for more of a stock appearance. I've seen the billet column supports you mentioned and while they do look nice they may have a bit more "bling" than I want. haha. I'll have to look for the steel supports though. As for the spacers...excellent suggestion. I was planning on taking the steering box off because I wanted to grind off one of the unused mounting tabs to give more exhaust clearance so I'll see if some spacers would work as well.

Oh, and the steering box does turn the wheels in the correct direction.

thanks again.

 

P/S Gearbox:

SPA-DL, DV, DX = 1979/2002 Crown Vic/Mercury Grand Marquis // 1980/2002 Lincoln Town Car.

SPA = the gearbox is the same, the meaningless and different suffixes only refer to what cars they were used on.

Seal kits (both available from Ford):

D7AZ3E501B .. Sector Shaft

F3AZ3E502A .. Input Shaft

The housing is 1979/2002, and while the seal kit part numbers have been updated over the years, the original part number prefixes were C5AZ = 1965.

1965: This is how old this P/S gear design is.

The ID number of E4AO-3A587-A1 (should be E4AD) is just for that particular part itself.

 

Could you post another pic of the steering box. A view showing how its attached to frame and axle?????

 

NumberDummy, that makes sense for the PS box to come from a Grand Marquis becuase I was told the 302/AOD came from an '88 Grand Marquis. The engine was converted to carb instead of the fuel injection as well.

Fordtrucksforever, I'll be more than happy to post a few more pictures for you. When I get home after work I take the pics and post them up.

 

Hi David,
I'm very interested in new pictures also. I just picked up a 90' Crown vic to use the drivetrain out of. Been scratching my head trying to figure out a way to use the short column with the shifter and make it look closer to stock. can't wait to see how the steering box is mounted to the frame.
Do you know if your engine is a roller or not? I know what the codes and books say but I've also been around enough of them to know that you have about a 50/50 chance of any post 87' 5.0 being a roller. I haven't taken apart anything yet to see. Also, what size carb is on it?
Mike

 

Hey Mike,
I don't know if the engine is roller or not, but I can pull the intake to find out if you'd like. I'm not sure who installed the engine/transmission but I can tell you some definite short cuts were made (not necessarily in welding up the mounts and such, but other detail things that I'm having to redo). As you know, the engine would have originally been fuel injected, well that was pulled off and an "old" Edelbrock 289 intake was installed along with an equally old Ford stamped Holley carburator (crusted on dirt and all). I've seen installed a Holley 4160 series (600 cfm) with electric choke. I bought the carb from Latemodel Restoration Supply - Mustang Parts, Chevy Truck Parts & Dodge Challenger Parts along with a chrome water neck and oil dipstick. The distributor and ignition box was changed to a Ford Duraspark system which I assume was purchased at a parts store.

David