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Thanks guys for a great site. I hope I'll be able to contribute back half of what I gain here!
I utilize a Ryobi battery charger for my tool batteries and want to mount the 12V car-charger directly in my cab. Is there a point where this makes the most sense (I don't want to use one of my upfitter switches)? I'm willing to cut off the male end to do the direct wiring.
And I know you're wondering why? The reason is the 12V power recepticle doesn't seem to be reliable. Many times, I come back to the truck to find my charger is not working and I have to twist the connection to start charging the battery.
I would run a new power wire for it. Probably 8-10 ga so you can supply plenty of current and use it for other additions later on. I'd suspect a 10A fuse will probably do, but check in the cig lighter plug to see what they have it fused for. You can generally unscrew the end near the plunger and a glass round fuse will slide out, on one of the ends it will list it's amperage.
If you're going for the simple solution, tap into the power point hot wire. It should be fused at 20 amps.
This was my first thought, but I didn't want to overload this circuit. I do use it for phone, etc.
So what I'm understanding is that there are no existing constant hot wires made available to us? If I want to supply direct power, I would need to run a fused wire from the battery?
I would. There maybe hot circuits available, but they have other intended uses and are gauged for the stock demand only. The manufactures can save a few pennies on each vehicle by using the smallest wires that carry the current of what they put in. Plus with the smaller wires you'll see more voltage drop than if you used a wire sized for your draw and length.
An easy solution would be to put a cigarette lighter plug on your battery charger and use the cigarette lighter or power point.
The battery charger has a cig plug on it. It is the car charger for Ryobi tools. The problem is it doesn't really fit well in the cig lighter or 12V Power Point. Vibration from driving or closing a door can make it lose connection. I want to direct wire it to prevent this.
but where is the best place to introduce a new wire into the cab?
Here's my favorite place to bring wires in and out of the cab. Its just a plastic plug that pops out of the firewall, near the brake booster. I like drilling this plug better than I do the firewall
This plug might not be there on a manual trans truck though...?
I have an '06 and do have the pass through cables. Of course, I was planning on using those for my upfitter switches (aux lighting (front); trailer hook-up lights; high-idle) for all those really cool things I'm learning about on this forum!
Of course, this begs the question, how many pass-through wires are in the bundle? I'll have to go look.
Here's my favorite place to bring wires in and out of the cab. Its just a plastic plug that pops out of the firewall, near the brake booster. I like drilling this plug better than I do the firewall
This plug might not be there on a manual trans truck though...?
Thats where the clutch goes through the firewall, so manuals dont have it and you're right, its an easy place to drill.
Originally Posted by 1975StroppeBaja
My truck had four pass through wires, although their not the biggest gauge wiring... maybe 12 or 14 AWG..?
All the diagrams I've seen show 4 wires that are 14 awg. If you want larger, you'll have to pull your own. The place shown in the picture above is the easiest if you have an auto trans.
All the diagrams I've seen show 4 wires that are 14 awg. If you want larger, you'll have to pull your own. The place shown in the picture above is the easiest if you have an auto trans.
I'm gonna play some this weekend. This looks like the place for me to drill. I have an auto trans and my inspection confirms 4 wires that I would rather hold for my upfitter switches.