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I was just wondering if a faulty headlight dimmer has ever or could ever give the problem of intermittent to no headlights. It seems like when I turn the headlights on and screw around with this thing for awhile sometimes they turn on then when I mess with it again no lights in high or low beams. And when my buddy used it the other day he said when he turned the headlights on they didnt come on but he could hear a sizzle in the steering column.
A notorious problem (at least one I have had personal experience with) is the wiring for the headlight switch. You should pull the switch and inspect the wiring. More than likely, you will need a new switch if it's really bad as well as the connector and pigtail to splice in. For some reason, one or more connectors inside the switch connector assembly (plastic piece) get loose and cause issues, which usually end up in wiring getting hot and burning / melting things. You will probably also want to check the dimmer switch (part of the multi-function switch for turn signals, etc.) in the column for the same thing. Could have just been the headlight switch itself, but better safe than sorry. Hopefully, it didn't burn more wiring than just local to the switches.
Yes, my problems started when I went to the Halogen bulbs several years ago, I have gone through several dimmer switches and connectors since that time. I eventually bypassed the switch and hardwired the low beams on. I don't have much use for high beams in California. The connectors would actually melt and dry out so much as to become brittle and the connections would break away from the plastic.
buster 23 a headlight relay would take the heavy amp load off the stock wiring.most jobbers sell them and they are easy to install. most have instructions for wiring .
sounds like it would be a must for your rig.
Yeah, I will probably do the add-on harness and headlight relay setup myself - ESPECIALLY if I upgrade to the modern-style headlights with removeable / replaceable bulbs like the ones they sell at LMC Truck. You don't want to try and run those with the original wiring harness, the wire is too small. Heck, even regular OEM replacement halogens do not help. The wiring harnesses seem to have been more set up for the *****ty incandescent stock bulbs.
After driving home 20 miles in the dark with no headlights last month I had to replace the headlight switch. At that time I noticed that the pigtail connector was a little melted around one of the headlight connections.
Today I wired the headlamps to relays. Using a clamp ammeter I measured approximately 10A going to the headlights through the relays (low and high beam) and no detectable current (presumably less than 100 mA) going through the headlight switch. Hopefully this will prevent the dimmer switch from failing somewhere down the line.
It's pretty easy to site and wire the relays next to the solenoid and a couple of other relays on a plate behind the battery.
The main connection that burned on mine was for the running lights - which one(s) were showing signs of melting / heat on yours? I would recommend either using a quick connect terminal lug and a small pigtail and butt connector for each of the wires that got hot or splicing in a pigtail (they sell them at most auto parts places) with the butt connectors. I would also recommend the 'weatherproof' connectors with the heat-shrinkable insulation. I would probably consider a relay conversion regardless of upgrading the headlights.