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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
TucsonTripleB's Avatar
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Keep Your Posts Clean!!

No I'm not talking about your forum posts (although you should also keep those clean as well). I am talking about your battery post!

This may seem like a simple thing that most of you already know, but apparently our PSDs are very sensitive to having clean terminals. I was having a longer then normal wait for the Glow Plugs to warm up and slow crank (like batteries were dying) issues. I checked the terminals and they were a little corroded, but nothing that I would have given a second look on any of my gas burners. I thought I was going to have to replace my 2 yr old batteries (both batteries and 200 amp alt. were replaced when I bought the truck 2 yrs ago). Guy at the local Auto Zone said, "these trucks a little sensitive to dirty post" and I should try cleaning the terminals first. For a $3 investment for a post cleaning tool and 10 min. of my time, I now have 3 times faster glow plug heat up, and the beast cranks over like it is going to send the pistons out the hood! I am probably just delusional from my euphoria, but it also seems like the truck is running, driving better (ie more power/responsive).

Just thought this post might help another Newbie like me.

GOD I LOVE MY TRUCK!!!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 05:19 PM
  #2  
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From: Pleasanton/Livermore area
i did the same thing. i was gonna replace the batts...

i tested them on a VAT-40 and did a load test and at 1/2 the CCA it was going 9.6V(which is failing). after i cleaned posts and clamps, i was at 11V steady. Saved me moneys! Oh, and i installed a washer in front of that lead(feels like it) nut. it makes removal and installation a lot easier, and you can clamp tighter.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #3  
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From: Ferryville SW Wisconsin
Great reminder!! This is so easy to overlook and ignored.
The power posters always talk about this point.
Good to have a real life exsample. Thanks!

Let us know your Name (first) and Town, Name and Town. Reps on the way.

Auke
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 05:59 PM
  #4  
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I replaced a starter, two batteries, an alternator, and a starter solenoid before I realized I had a loose/corroded connections... just because they look "okay" doesn't mean they are, now I remove and clean all of them on a regular basis.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #5  
Automator's Avatar
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Welcome to FTE, dang, already a Supporter!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #6  
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That is of course, very good advice. Also don't forget those cables have another end on them. Check the grounds and relay connections for corrosion as well. Another neat little trick we've learned here on FTE is to use something called Noalox on the posts and connections to prevent corrosion. The bottle says Ideal (the manufacturer) in big letters, and Noalox in smaller letters. It's available at Home Depot or Lowes in the electrical isle.

You're very lucky to have a knowledgeable guy at your local AutoZone. After looking up a part for me, one of my local AutoZoo employees told me about a sale they were having and said I should take advantage of this great sale and change my spark plugs and wires.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 07:43 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by F350-6
That is of course, very good advice. Also don't forget those cables have another end on them. Check the grounds and relay connections for corrosion as well. Another neat little trick we've learned here on FTE is to use something called Noalox on the posts and connections to prevent corrosion. The bottle says Ideal (the manufacturer) in big letters, and Noalox in smaller letters. It's available at Home Depot or Lowes in the electrical isle.

You're very lucky to have a knowledgeable guy at your local AutoZone. After looking up a part for me, one of my local AutoZoo employees told me about a sale they were having and said I should take advantage of this great sale and change my spark plugs and wires.
I'll have to look for the Noalox stuff.

You should have asked him to point out where exactly are the spark plugs and wires are on your truck.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 07:54 PM
  #8  
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F350-6
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
I'll have to look for the Noalox stuff.

You should have asked him to point out where exactly are the spark plugs and wires are on your truck.
Jim (Megawatt00) turned me on to that stuff, and it works better than anything I've ever tried.

The spark plugs were $1.99 ea. I should have bought them, then went back inside and said they didn't fit and see if he would have swapped them for glow plugs, but I live in a warm climate so my glow plugs are still fine. Instead I just looked at him and asked if he was stupid. (I was having a bad day). He just stared at me with a strange look on his face so I told him I was ready to check out now.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #9  
TucsonTripleB's Avatar
TucsonTripleB
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Originally Posted by F350-6
That is of course, very good advice. Also don't forget those cables have another end on them. Check the grounds and relay connections for corrosion as well. Another neat little trick we've learned here on FTE is to use something called Noalox on the posts and connections to prevent corrosion. The bottle says Ideal (the manufacturer) in big letters, and Noalox in smaller letters. It's available at Home Depot or Lowes in the electrical isle.

You're very lucky to have a knowledgeable guy at your local AutoZone. After looking up a part for me, one of my local AutoZoo employees told me about a sale they were having and said I should take advantage of this great sale and change my spark plugs and wires.
Thanks for the heads up on the Noalox! I will get down to HD this weekend.


Originally Posted by Technocrsr
Great reminder!! This is so easy to overlook and ignored.
The power posters always talk about this point.
Good to have a real life exsample. Thanks!

Let us know your Name (first) and Town, Name and Town. Reps on the way.

Auke
I'm not sure what "Reps on the way" means, but I'm Scott in Tucson, AZ.

Again thanks to all on this forum. I am a "supporter" because I have already saved $100's thanks to the great folks on this site. (sticking door mech. issue, missing due to harness connector inside the valve covers issue, etc...)

Oh yeah it's a 2000 7.3l with 230k miles, no mods at all (i'm debating on if I should mess with it)
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:26 PM
  #10  
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From: Rochdale MA
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Originally Posted by TucsonTripleB
Thanks for the heads up on the Noalox! I will get down to HD this weekend.




I'm not sure what "Reps on the way" means, but I'm Scott in Tucson, AZ.

Again thanks to all on this forum. I am a "supporter" because I have already saved $100's thanks to the great folks on this site. (sticking door mech. issue, missing due to harness connector inside the valve covers issue, etc...)

Oh yeah it's a 2000 7.3l with 230k miles, no mods at all (i'm debating on if I should mess with it)
If you stick around here......you will!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:27 PM
  #11  
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From: Pleasanton/Livermore area
i believe that "Noalox" is repackaged Di-Electric Grease. You may be paying more for the brand. but then again, you could be paying less.

and triple B you should do the Napa 6637 DIY intake, and a cat delete pipe. theres good sound, power and MPG right there, for under $100
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:30 PM
  #12  
megawatt00's Avatar
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Originally Posted by POWERSMOKIN
i believe that "Noalox" is repackaged Di-Electric Grease. You may be paying more for the brand. but then again, you could be paying less.

and triple B you should do the Napa 6637 DIY intake, and a cat delete pipe. theres good sound, power and MPG right there, for under $100
Noalox is the trade mark name by Ideal. It's primary use is to inhibit corrosion when terminating aluminum wires or copper to aluminum connections (via a lug) I have used di-electric grease before and Noalox is far more corrosion resistant. Plus it is very highly conductive.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:36 PM
  #13  
POWERSMOKIN's Avatar
POWERSMOKIN
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From: Pleasanton/Livermore area
good thing i didnt say i know!
PS. megawatt, can i be added to the RHN evem if i dont have a NBS seventhree and am no at 400?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:40 PM
  #14  
TucsonTripleB's Avatar
TucsonTripleB
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Originally Posted by POWERSMOKIN
i believe that "Noalox" is repackaged Di-Electric Grease. You may be paying more for the brand. but then again, you could be paying less.

and triple B you should do the Napa 6637 DIY intake, and a cat delete pipe. theres good sound, power and MPG right there, for under $100
I have been thinking pretty hard about the 6637 mod, and was just checking out the custom fab air box instruction on F350-6's link in his sig line. How much real difference will the 6637 mod make if I don't chip or exaust it?

I don't think I have cat to delete. I thought that was true on all 2000's or is mine different?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:45 PM
  #15  
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From: VA
Originally Posted by F350-6
That is of course, very good advice. Also don't forget those cables have another end on them. Check the grounds and relay connections for corrosion as well. Another neat little trick we've learned here on FTE is to use something called Noalox on the posts and connections to prevent corrosion. The bottle says Ideal (the manufacturer) in big letters, and Noalox in smaller letters. It's available at Home Depot or Lowes in the electrical isle.

You're very lucky to have a knowledgeable guy at your local AutoZone. After looking up a part for me, one of my local AutoZoo employees told me about a sale they were having and said I should take advantage of this great sale and change my spark plugs and wires.
Originally Posted by megawatt00
Noalox is the trade mark name by Ideal. It's primary use is to inhibit corrosion when terminating aluminum wires or copper to aluminum connections (via a lug) I have used di-electric grease before and Noalox is far more corrosion resistant. Plus it is very highly conductive.
Well you answered my question on thart. I have a small glue like bottle of that ontop of my breaker box! I used a like 1/8 of a bottle on the meter box connections. I didnt know you could use it on the truck!
 
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