Hello all ... been a while since my last visit. Hope your 09 has started well ..... while driving to Toronto for the holidays I had the van shake from what I thought was a rear end impact but no body was there. Turns out the right rear connection point "dogbone" failed from age/rust and now the leif end with bolt and bushing is hitting the bottom of the floor. It was a serious impact.

Where are these kind of parts found ? I have done ball joints and radius arm bushings but this looks like very heavy work ..... do you drop the axle to work on leif springs ?

I appreciate any advice members have on tackling this type of repair. Thank You.

Harold H.

 

Don't think you need to "drop the axle" in this case, if the leaf spring 'eye' is OK. You should get all the clearance you need by jacking the van up by the frame. This takes all the weight off the leaf spring, the axle would then hang from the "dogbone" normally. You might need to jack the axle up at the same time to avoid stretching anything to far. You should be able to adjust the height accurately using a jack to align the replacement parts. The safe way is to lift van by frame & support it on jack stands, then use jack to lift axle up to align things to get bolts in.

That's a lot of steel to fail while just driving along. I presume by "dogbone" you mean spring shackle? These are routinely neglected, a few drops of oil annually greatly extends their working life. Any suspension parts that "failed from age/rust" neccessitate a complete inspection. Here in FL rust is not a common issue for such parts, so I'd be able to salvage good used parts. Otherwise they're probably dealer only parts.

 

Hi Club .... thanks for the quick reply. (and sorry about my spelling of the spring) I did a quick parts search and yes the failed part is indeed the Shackle. It broke in the middle. So far i found this part online (no pics) that includes bushings, no bolts. I will look a bit more.
1998 FORD E-150 ECONOLINE CLUB WAGON Leaf Spring Shackle

Thank You for the advise on the parts replacement. I have jack stands and can borrow decent hyd jacks. I would plan on just cutting the bolts as they are very rusty and I do no have a impact or heat wrench. Thanks. Harold H.

 

Removing will be an issue as since the shackle failed to rust, likely the bolts will be rusted, in most cases the bolts seize to the leaf spring bushing. When the bolt will not turn in the leaf spring, you'll need a sawzall, to cut the bolt each side between the shackle and spring, then with penetrating oil, a punch and big hammer, pound the remaining bolt from the spring, take care NOT to drive out the brass/steel bushing. I've encountered it in the past when installing suspension lifts in my 4x4 trucks, I've done many, even the clean ones that seemed rust free would be seized inside the springs.

 

Thank you maples01 ...... it is a rusty old dog theat I call The Beast. I think my plan is to get a couple fresh 4" cut off disks for my grinder and just not even try to wrench on them .... I'd bust my standard craftsman tools or my fingers.

I am still searching the net for the parts .... so far have only found the parts from Rockauto.com

HH

 

Watch cutting with discs because like I said, has to be cut from between the hanger and spring, the disc will snag and jump, chip off too, so wear face gear and take all precautions, that's why I use a reciprocating saw. At least try to turn it with a wrench after you cut the nut side, to see if the bolt is seized in the bushing, because sometimes you wind up damaging the bushing and wind up needing to replace it, so be ready to replace your spring eye bushing too.

 

Very good .... still learning the terminalogy ... is the spring eye bushing the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing ? I planned on replacing the rubber bushings figuring they owe me nothing on this old dog.

I appreciate your tips.

H

 

I'd recommend against "not even try(ing) to wrench on them". You have nothing to lose by trying out your fav penetrating oil, big breaker bar & pipe extension. You'd be well ahead if you can get the bolts out w/o damaging the bushings. I had to devise my own pusher/puller to do the job. My guess is you might find bushing R&R to be challenging. I would "not even try to" replace the bushings if they looked OK & I could replace shackle w/o ruining them.

I'd also plan to look over the accessibility before deciding on a "grinder". A 'bayonet' type reciprocating saw, like maples01 recommends & a handful of quality blades, may be the safest way to get at the top bolt. Beware maples01 warning about how often these bolts are seized. Even if the rubber is still good you may well ruin it wrestling the bolts out. If the rubber is already obviously bad it could make the work easier. This brings up another tip. I've seen mechanics intentionally destroy the rubber to expedite. Its a dangerous & dirty strategy. They heat the rubber w/torch to soften & burn it to get it out. Guaranteed to make clouds of stinking black smoke & fair chance of setting something on fire, or at least causing the FD to show up!

 

Club, I appreciate your experience and input, Thank You. I am taking all this in. I can indeed just PB Blaster the nuts right now knowing I can not get to the job for a week. Soak them good over several days.

The shackle that Rockauto.com lists comes w/ one bushing. Still even after looking last nite it is the only aftermarket part I have found.

I definitely have to take this in steps ... do Not want to make it harder than it needs to be. It is a big enough project. I have done ball joints and radius arm bushing job myself so I believe I can handle it. Thanks.

H

 

Hope I did alright ....I just found and ordered two Dorman shackle kits from Motor Parts Central out of Iowa for $23ea + $10 shipping Includes both bushings and bolt/nuts included. The Dorman part# is 722-001

Even If I can not get the bushing sleeve part out of the leaf at least I have the part.

H

 

Looks like you've got a plan & a good start. Hope the "soak" time does the trick, that could certainly pare down what can be a "big enough project" for anyone.

When you use the "BP Blaster" consider how you'll R&R "both bushings". My bet is if you could deal w/E150 ball joints you'll be AOK.

 

Update ! I am now freshly shackled ....... sorry it took so long to get back .... I waited to get my van in to a friends heated garage with a lift.

The R&R went pretty well ... The upper and lower nuts came off fine. The tuffy was the upper bolt rusted in to the eye bushing ..... we cut the bolt off flat and put a air hammer tool on it and turned it at the same time ..... first side took anout 45 minutes and the other side litterally about 10 mintes as we knew how to attack it ......I could of never done this job in my driveway with the minimal tools I have. The lift and heavy air tools made All the difference.

Thank you for all the help . I appreciated it.