2001 Hatch lock problem
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Joined: Jun 2011
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my escape is having the same problem as others mention. dealership quote 500 for the part. I really hope this resolve my problem. I would like my tailgate to open all the time. Anyone who purchased this part, how long did it take to install it? I did call ford about the recall someone mention, they stated there is no recall for this. seems to be an issue with the part.
Last edited by KM02317; Jun 16, 2011 at 10:35 PM. Reason: forgot to add some detail
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 155
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OK it's Friday June 17th 2011
I just finished replacing the actuator on my 2001 Escape. I ordered the part from the following company, $5.50 for the part $7.00 shipping, (link is at the bottom of this thread). Ordered it last Sunday, got in the mail yesterday, Thursday. At this company on the reviews, about the 5th one down someone from Ohio did it to their 2001 Escape, has a pretty good explanation on doing it. A few modifications but it's pretty easy to figure out. When you first get the panel off all the rods that open and close everything looks pretty intimidating, but it's really pretty simple to do, if you can do basic maintenance to your vehicle. Start to finish about an hour, maybe an hour and a half. By the time your done you will be an expert at how everything works back there.
I was able to use the old black plastic part that connects the actuator to the metal mechanism on the Escape, the old one snaps, or pulls off (just look at the part you will see what I mean before you force anything), and the one on the new actuator does also, the parts fit together but don't quiet lock in place, so once I had the actuator mounted I attached it to the black plastic pull rod for lack of a better word, and put a plastic zip tie around where it connects to the actuator to keep it from every coming loose. Sounds more complicated then it is. $12.50 and hour or two of work sure does beat a dealer quote of several hundred bucks any day.
Tools needed:
1. Drill, about 1/8 drill bit or slightly bigger.
2. Socket wrench with 10mm socket and about a 5" extension. There are four nuts you have to remove.
3. Phillips and flat head screwdriver
4. Torx bit, and driver for that, not sure what size it was, that is the type of screw they used on the two original screws that hold the old actuator in place.
5. Wire cutters and you will have to splice the 2 wires coming out of the new actuator, and cut the old connector that plugged into the original actuator off.
6. Female bullet type of electrical connector, or any what ever kind of electrical connector you choose to use to connect the wires together.
7. Electrical tape to put around the connectors you use to weather proof the connections
8. A couple of zip ties. One to secure the original black plastic push rod to the actuator and maybe two more ties to secure the wiring so it doesn't rub on anything.
9. Permanent marker
10. Hacksaw, if you use the bracket that comes with the part, will have to be shortened, and will all need a small screw 1/2" or less in length and lock washer, nut.
Tip: To get the old actuator off, you have to take part of the mechanism off, not completely but you will have to remove some of the rods that have plastic connectors with threads to hold them in place. The plastic connectors pry off, just look carefully and use a flat head screw driver to open them up. The tip is to take a permanent marker and mark the threads right where they come into or out of the plastic connector, so when you reattach the connectors you can put them in the same place, otherwise some of the rods could be out of adjustment. Basically your putting the rods back in the same position they were in the first place.
Scott
Here's the link to this company.
DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR | AllElectronics.com
I just finished replacing the actuator on my 2001 Escape. I ordered the part from the following company, $5.50 for the part $7.00 shipping, (link is at the bottom of this thread). Ordered it last Sunday, got in the mail yesterday, Thursday. At this company on the reviews, about the 5th one down someone from Ohio did it to their 2001 Escape, has a pretty good explanation on doing it. A few modifications but it's pretty easy to figure out. When you first get the panel off all the rods that open and close everything looks pretty intimidating, but it's really pretty simple to do, if you can do basic maintenance to your vehicle. Start to finish about an hour, maybe an hour and a half. By the time your done you will be an expert at how everything works back there.
I was able to use the old black plastic part that connects the actuator to the metal mechanism on the Escape, the old one snaps, or pulls off (just look at the part you will see what I mean before you force anything), and the one on the new actuator does also, the parts fit together but don't quiet lock in place, so once I had the actuator mounted I attached it to the black plastic pull rod for lack of a better word, and put a plastic zip tie around where it connects to the actuator to keep it from every coming loose. Sounds more complicated then it is. $12.50 and hour or two of work sure does beat a dealer quote of several hundred bucks any day.
Tools needed:
1. Drill, about 1/8 drill bit or slightly bigger.
2. Socket wrench with 10mm socket and about a 5" extension. There are four nuts you have to remove.
3. Phillips and flat head screwdriver
4. Torx bit, and driver for that, not sure what size it was, that is the type of screw they used on the two original screws that hold the old actuator in place.
5. Wire cutters and you will have to splice the 2 wires coming out of the new actuator, and cut the old connector that plugged into the original actuator off.
6. Female bullet type of electrical connector, or any what ever kind of electrical connector you choose to use to connect the wires together.
7. Electrical tape to put around the connectors you use to weather proof the connections
8. A couple of zip ties. One to secure the original black plastic push rod to the actuator and maybe two more ties to secure the wiring so it doesn't rub on anything.
9. Permanent marker
10. Hacksaw, if you use the bracket that comes with the part, will have to be shortened, and will all need a small screw 1/2" or less in length and lock washer, nut.
Tip: To get the old actuator off, you have to take part of the mechanism off, not completely but you will have to remove some of the rods that have plastic connectors with threads to hold them in place. The plastic connectors pry off, just look carefully and use a flat head screw driver to open them up. The tip is to take a permanent marker and mark the threads right where they come into or out of the plastic connector, so when you reattach the connectors you can put them in the same place, otherwise some of the rods could be out of adjustment. Basically your putting the rods back in the same position they were in the first place.
Scott
Here's the link to this company.
DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR | AllElectronics.com
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Joined: Apr 2012
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I ordered this part on 9/5/10 and I just got it in the mail today. When I ordered it, it was $16.00, but I just clicked on the link a few minutes ago and I see that they are selling it for the "low price" of $24.00. What annoyed me is that when I ordered it, they charged me $24.50 for shipping and handling on top of the $16.00 purchase price. The label on the U.S. Postal Service Priority Mail envelope says that they paid $4.75 for the shipping! What a rip-off! Anyway, the part was a direct bolt-in, but I had to do a minor modification to the wiring to get it to work. The OEM liftgate lock actuator does not have any wires sticking out of it. It has a connector built into it. On the replacement that I bought, the wires are sticking out of it, so I cut off the connector that was on the factory wiring, and crimped on some blade-type connectors. After hooking up the wires, I did a test and I found that I had the wires backwards. When I'd lock the doors, the back hatch would unlock, and when I'd unlock the doors, the hatch (and glass) would lock! So, I unplugged the wires and reversed them, and now it works just fine.
I saved a lot of money by not buying a complete assembly from the Ford dealer, but I still think it stinks that this company charged me $24.50 to ship a $16.00 (now $24.00) part, especially when it only cost them $4.75 to ship it!!
Hopefully someone on this forum can find the part somewhere else that charges less for shipping.
Andy
I saved a lot of money by not buying a complete assembly from the Ford dealer, but I still think it stinks that this company charged me $24.50 to ship a $16.00 (now $24.00) part, especially when it only cost them $4.75 to ship it!!
Hopefully someone on this forum can find the part somewhere else that charges less for shipping.Andy
The part was $18 and shipping an outrageous $12 via USPS, in the same State. Oh well. After 90 minutes, it was all apart, replaced and back together. The new solenoid is noisy, but hey - it works!
Thanks again to everyone on this thread!
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