Adding AC/DC Power Inverter
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 853
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From: northern,california
Let us know how much the price tag is. I would bet that it is around $100 an Amp = 10,000. You can always do what I do. I load my 3500 watt portable generator into the bed of the truck and use it as needed. No worries of draining the truck battery.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22
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Well, Tazo, this idea is dead in the water for me.
1. Further research shows I do not have the PTO option on my truck. At the time that I bought my truck, that wasn't a need for me. Things change. According to the dealer, I would have to replace the trans - and that ain't gonna happen.
2. Cost is approx. $5000.00 Works out to approx $500.00 per KW.
So, back to the inverter.
1. Further research shows I do not have the PTO option on my truck. At the time that I bought my truck, that wasn't a need for me. Things change. According to the dealer, I would have to replace the trans - and that ain't gonna happen.
2. Cost is approx. $5000.00 Works out to approx $500.00 per KW.
So, back to the inverter.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22
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Oh, in regard to the generator. I do the same thing when I'm aware of the no power issue on a job. It's when I get out there, then find out I don't have power. And, yes, it would be nice to just always have power available.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,949
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From: Near DC
First: I have a very nice Leer cap on the bed....
I built a wooden box out of 2x6 and have 4 deep cycle batts in the bed, cabled in place to the interior forward bed D-Rings (it's not moving).
I use #4 braided welder's wire between the batts and to the 2400W inverter which is mounted to the side of the box. The longest cable is 2', a run longer than 3' would require #2 wire to the inverter.
I use 12GA wire from the trailer battery charging circuit at the hitch round plug to the first battery. This recharges the bank anytime the key is on and does not tap into the starting battery circuit.
I have a remote switch to turn the inverter on but have not ran it into the cab (yet).
It's no trouble running 2 power saws at the same time, or a few 120v lights and a sound system, DirecTV satellite and LCD TV. I can also run the block heater all night!!!
Well, the heater with nothing else running that is....
My ultimate goal is to have 120v at the rear hitch, in the cab and hard-wired to the front bumper within reach of the block heater plug. Also want to put a small solar panel on top of the cap, flush mount.
For pics, just imagine a HEAVY wooden box with 4 deep cycle and a 14"x12"x 4" inverter bolted to the side. I keep forgetting to take pics, it's nothing glamorous or pretty, but it is very solid and functional.
I built a wooden box out of 2x6 and have 4 deep cycle batts in the bed, cabled in place to the interior forward bed D-Rings (it's not moving).
I use #4 braided welder's wire between the batts and to the 2400W inverter which is mounted to the side of the box. The longest cable is 2', a run longer than 3' would require #2 wire to the inverter.
I use 12GA wire from the trailer battery charging circuit at the hitch round plug to the first battery. This recharges the bank anytime the key is on and does not tap into the starting battery circuit.
I have a remote switch to turn the inverter on but have not ran it into the cab (yet).
It's no trouble running 2 power saws at the same time, or a few 120v lights and a sound system, DirecTV satellite and LCD TV. I can also run the block heater all night!!!
Well, the heater with nothing else running that is....
My ultimate goal is to have 120v at the rear hitch, in the cab and hard-wired to the front bumper within reach of the block heater plug. Also want to put a small solar panel on top of the cap, flush mount.
For pics, just imagine a HEAVY wooden box with 4 deep cycle and a 14"x12"x 4" inverter bolted to the side. I keep forgetting to take pics, it's nothing glamorous or pretty, but it is very solid and functional.
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