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Jan 8, 2009 | 10:46 AM

#16

quicklook2

Post Fiend

Joined: May 2004

Posts: 11,289

Likes: 6

From: Lakewood, Ohio

get both haynes and chilton.

don't know about the clymer one, have never seen it.

some things covered better in each.

Jan 8, 2009 | 01:19 PM

#17

mstngmikegt

Senior User

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 336

Likes: 0

From: Iowa

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_brandstein

Well which brand is better. I cannot afford a Ford Factory Manual... so its between Clymer or Haynes...

Not familiar with Clymer....personal preference is Chilton....believe Haynes actually is responsible for both Chilton and Haynes but have found the Chilton's to have more info when I needed it. Actually, have found stuff in both that wasn't in the other at times so maybe both isn't a bad idea!

Jan 8, 2009 | 01:28 PM

#18

quicklook2

Post Fiend

Joined: May 2004

Posts: 11,289

Likes: 6

From: Lakewood, Ohio

so we are in agreement then. hahahaha

Jan 8, 2009 | 03:39 PM

#19

mstngmikegt

Senior User

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 336

Likes: 0

From: Iowa

Quote:

Originally Posted by quicklook2

so we are in agreement then. hahahaha

Looks like it. BTW, "you are like a tailless dog chasing its tail"....true nuf! The manual won't guarantee you catch the tail, but at least you get a clue what it looks like if you happen to find it.

Jan 8, 2009 | 04:09 PM

#20

EPNCSU2006

Lead Driver

Joined: Nov 2002

Posts: 9,557

Likes: 44

From: Concord, NC

Quote:

Actually, have found stuff in both that wasn't in the other at times so maybe both isn't a bad idea!

I have done the same thing. I tend to use my Haynes manual a little more frequently than Chiltons, though.

Jan 8, 2009 | 08:14 PM

#21

justin_brandstein

Thread Starter

Senior User

Joined: Nov 2008

Posts: 199

Likes: 0

Ok both it is. I will post back with my findings

Jan 9, 2009 | 08:42 AM

#22

Conanski

FTE Legend

Joined: Jun 2006

Posts: 31,930

Likes: 1,499

From: Ottawa, Ontario

I'm with the others.. I think you have misinterpreted the codes you're getting, so post them up and we'll find out for sure.

Considering the fuel milage you motor is running very rich, so test the fuel pressure and check the FPR for leaks past the diaphram into the vacuum line, the computer has no control over this so it won't throw a code.

The Thermactor(air injection) system defaults to bypass mode if a component fails or a vacuum line is broken, so it's not likely to cause an extreme rich condition.

Jan 10, 2009 | 12:46 AM

#23

colemanw

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2008

Posts: 213

Likes: 0

From: Ellensburg, Washington

You might think about replacing the engine temp sensor. its a 30 buck part and is easy to get at. when engines are cold a large amount of fuel is injected... as they warm up the mixture leans out... if the temp sensor is bad the computer will not know that the temp is rising and will continue to run the rich mix...

also, make sure you disconnect your battery when changing these sensors. (o2 included) aside from safety it will wipe the computer memory and help the computer talk to the new part more efficiently...

good luck justin

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Jan 10, 2009 | 08:46 AM

#24

mstngmikegt

Senior User

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 336

Likes: 0

From: Iowa

colemanw..that is good advise. I chased a related issue with my Mustang for quite awhile disregarding a "temp out of range" code (assuming I didn't have it up to temp or due to the colder thermostat I was running since the gauge read cool, but normal when pulling codes). After learning the range (which is huge), I went ahead and replaced the sensor (there are actually 2, at least on my 5.0 stang, one the computer reads and one that feeds the gauge..think the trucks are no different). Cured alot of ills. Would like to see what OP's codes are. BTW for all, a great site regarding Ford EEC and EFI in general...

Ford Fuel Injection