when charging your ac do you hold the can upright or upside down? i held it upside down and i think i damaged my compressor.
but "ive heard" thats the way to do it
i did some google research and everybodys advice is 50/50.
after brainstorming my belief is that gas should go in and not liquid because its job is to recover gas and compress it into a liquid not compress liquid which is uncompressable. the compressors new reman. and runs like crap. did i cause severe damage or should i just "be lucky and not do it again" ?

 

You shouldn't charge right at the compressor anyways, you should charge at the receiver/dryer. If you did charge at the compressor, then yes it probably is fried.
Does it make odd noises or turn less than smoothly when you turn it manually?

 

huh? the low side (suction) fitting is the only possible place to charge this system.
on each can i found on the shelf at napa it says to hold upright. i held 1 upright and the can got so cold i could barely hold it. then i threw in like 4 more cans held upside down, they drained way faster and were warm. i think i f'd up.

 

Dave, I have tried holding the can upright but didn't think it would ever fill. I usually rock it back and forth but sometimes hold it upside down.

Either way you want the contents of the can to get into the system, up down, or sideways.

You may either have a leak and it is coming out as fast as you put it in or you haven't added enough.

If the compressor is still turning it isn't busted.


John

 

There is oil in those cans that help lubricate the compressor. That is the reason for turning it upside down. I usually put one can of straight oil in then add freon. I swap the can around til it's empty. Never a problem.

If it still turns free, then it's okay. If it's still just cycling quickly, then it doesn't have enough freon in it yet. Do you have gauges or at least the cheapo gauge that comes with filling kit? Overfilling the system will cause it to freeze up and NOT work. Have to thaw it and run it again. If it quits getting cold, then it's got too much in it.

 

i originally put 3 cans of r134a in it thinking that should be more than enough since it calls for 2lbs of r12. head pressures were 30/150 and the temp at the vents was 60. so now i add 3 more cans to it which is completely insane, and the head pressures are the same but 38 degrees coming from the vents and lots of frost and moisture forming on the fittings, and the compressor runs like *****.

 

5 cans? :/
I'm guessing you didn't have gauges on it either? :/

---------------------------------------------

The trick is to just trickle it in with the valve barely cracked open but
-most of the time the valve closed- while you wait on the system to
stabilize between additions.

Look at it this way... it's a time consuming process. You have to wait
for the pressures to equalize etc and so A/C work just takes time.

"when I get in a hurry it takes me longer :)" -Alvin

When putting freon into a freshly vacuumed system (the system is off)
you let the system suck pure liquid in without it sucking gas so it fully
drains the first can. :)

After rebuilding my original compressor (new bearings is about all there
is to that really) I was disappointed in the results then it dawned on me,
the brand new TXV (thermal expansion valve) needed adjusting. Wow. ;)
Tiny changes made a big difference and when I was done it worked great.

-----------------------------

At this point (tryingtothinkhappyhappyjoyjoythoughts;) you might just
have it over charged and it'll be fine when you let some off. :)

What all did you do to the system?
How long did you draw the vacuum down?

Sounds like you're using that stinkin' 134a stuff too. :/
Ick.

Alvin in AZ

 

You might need a capture system of somesort if you've overfilled....or don't let anyone see you drain it....Last I heard there's a $100,000 federal fine for releasing Freon into the air..

 

i wish it was actual freon. 134a to me so far seems to be nothing but garbage in a system thats meant to have r12. i spent so much money on replacing parts to retrofit to 134a just so i could convienently buy it at the store.

 

The only thing necessary to convert a system from R12 to 134A is the adaptors to accept the 134A charge hoses.

 

Heck, I didn't see this post before.
Hmmm... :/
I'm getting dumber by the day. :/

Anyway it's obvious as anything you've got it over charged like crazy!
...and like Uni sez don't let anybody video you letting it out.

It was ok for whole trains plumb full of freon to leave DuPont daily "back
when" but, letting out a little bit of 134a can make someone else money
for ratting you out. That's the new world we live in, turn everybody into
rats. ;) Hey, didn't good ol' A.H. do that first? ;)

BTW, Mexico still has -DuPont made- R12 on the shelf for cheap.
Are we the only dumb suckers in this crazy world? ;)

134a reacts badly with R12, you won't catch me using that 134a crap.
134a is poison... "they" don't make a big deal about that do "they"? ;)

Even $60 a pound for R12 ain't bad if your system is good.
Fix it up like you mean business and quit fartin' around? :)
Too late for you, you've contaminated it with 134a. Sorry. :/

I threw a fit one time...
"what the heck, sorry old Ford A/C system worked ONLY 29 YEARS then like
that, up and quit on me, what a piece of crap! ;)" The guys at the A/C parts
supply house thought it was funny anyway. :)

Mean while back at the ranch... if your condenser has not been up-graded to
handle 134a that could be part of your measly 60 degree vents. And what
about adjusting your TXV? Never read anything about the need to adjust it
for 134a but I betcha it'd help and may-be a "trade secret" even?

Alvin in AZ is just another dumb libertarian with a bad attitude

 

Dave,
I hope you flushed all components with a proper solvent?? I'm not an expert, but have been led to believe that the different oils from r12 and 134a become highly corrosive if mixed together.
Gene

 

The A/C system takes 2 1/2 cans of R12 freon.

None of these trucks used R134A originally, in fact, Ford didn't switch over to R134 till the 1990's!

Most peeps install a Nippondenso compressor when switching to R134A.

I've been told by A/C techs that the original York (or Tecumsah) A/C compressor will not work with R134A.

The York compressor (C3AZ19703E) used in 1965/79 trucks was used in ALL the cars from 1963 thru 1972, many of the cars from 1973 thru 1979.

DO NOT buy a used compressor if the valves are uncapped...it will be NFG!

Once outside air gets into the: compressor, dryer or expansion valve, the entire system must be evacuated otherwise you can kiss it good bye within weeks.

btw: R134A does not cool as well as R12 did.

 

I put 134a in my '67 few years back. If the old rubber hoses and screw clamps weren't so bad it would probably hold a charge. It will freeze you out, but only last a couple days til it drains out. For an old under dash unit I was impressed.

 

Screw clamps on the hoses? Hmmm.

Not factory original.

Ford dealer made up hoses, or NAPA or an A/C shop made them.

I made up 100's of A/C hoses for peeps.

All the stuff was available from Ford including the special screw clamps.

I could prolly still find all the parts today, so you could make up your own new hoses.