Ok...

I am trying to install new spark plugs on my 2003 Ranger 4.0. One of the new and old spark plugs will not thread in. The only way do get it in is to force it. That is something I will not do. Any suggestion?

Also, what is the best way to get the spark plugs out/in on the passenger side? There is lots of stuff in the way. Any suggestion.

One more...

Do I need to change the wires too? I have almost 120k miles on my Ranger.

Thank you,

Pathfinder

 

You might want a thread chaser, which is basically a tap. You could come close by cutting a notch or 2 in an old plug. Make sure everything is clean esp before pulling the plugs next time & make sure to let the engine cool before pulling the plugs. As for the pass side, you mostly fussing with the A/C & heater hoses aye? The back ones should be easier from below and a stubby ratchet might help too. Put the socket on & then the ratchet. Yeah, they're not fun. The wires will probably be all right, but really good new ones should be more trust-worthy. I would not buy garbage Cobra brand or the like. Napa will supply better for a cheap price. It's a harsh environment in there & with Ford's waste spark, they fire twice as often as a distributor.

 

Thanx Matt!!



P-

 

At 120K miles it's time for new fine wire double platinum plugs & wires too & I'd opt for Motorcraft, as they're designed for our waste spark system.

Be sure to double check the plugs spark gap.

I elect to set mine to the min spec, as the gap is always getting larger with wear, so they'll stay in spec longer & at min spec, they will have a hotter spark to help with those cold soak winter starts.

Your local autoparts store should have a spark plug thread chaser to loan for a refundable deposit.

Be sure to use a shop vacuum to pull any debris looesened up.

As Matt suggested, be sure the engine is cool before using the thread chaser, or removing or installing the pugs.

If the plugs don't already have a antisieze on the threads, apply some, but don't get any on the insulators & torque the plugs to min spec, to allow for the antisieze lowering the thread friction, so you don't over torque the plugs.

Then butter on a light coating of dielectric grease on the plugs external insulator, before installing the new plug wires, to prevent flashover on those damp starts.

Also route the plug wires exactally as the factory had them, using all the wire looms.

Some folks think it's easier to go at the passenger side plugs from the wheel well with the tire removed.

A bunch more thoughts for pondering.
Let us know how it goes.

 

Anytime. I have heard of going through the wheel well. One note about that is if you have to remove the plastic bit or some of the fasterners with that kind of mileage in the snow belt, probably easier to go from below until next time. Those screws can be much harder to remove neatly than the plugs any other way - unless you have an arc welder.