When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I finally got the oil leak fixed on my wifes truck that didn't like to show up until 3 days before it gets pulled across texas, Oil pan gaskets are really fun to replace....Anyway,Her oil pressure according to the dash gauge is at 40 PSI on initial start up and once it fully warms up at idle is about 20 or so PSI and at 1500 RPM bumps up to around 40-60. Is this normal or more crap I have to fix on this damn thing? I hate chevys with a passion but she loves them......
But on my 2001 Silverado I'm at 40 PSI always with a bump to little under 60 when driving.
But her engine is healthy for going over 10K miles without an oil change (Yes I did change it when I found out.) and 166K miles on this old 350. Wants to move but damn sure doesn't want to stop. (Mushy Brake pedal) Which next paycheck are getting fixed. Until then I'll let the landlord think we drive it when we really don't. Not until I get everything fixed.
Makes me miss my old '89 more and more....Until I drove it 2 weeks ago and it was knocking in the engine and wheel was clacking when it moved....I hope that was spark knock not bearings or anything...
Only things I need to do to get this truck street legal again is a grille,and 2 new tires. When we went to pick it up it barely ran,I could floor it and it would only go up to 3K and stay spitting and sputtering,CEL on,ran like crap. Next day,it would'nt even start,it would just turn over then once I let off it jumped a couple of times. I pulled off her fuel filter,You'd think it was running off chocolate. It was bad. Put a new filter on,still wouldn't start,checked for spark,It had it. Then I did the obvious...Checked the relay. Thing was extreamly loose so I taped it down and now it runs. Of coarse this was before I knew of the class 3 oil leak and bad brakes. The leak was right at the bellhousing cover and oil pan. Looked like rear main,I was ready to junk it. Got it here and pulled the cover off and the flywheel and torque converter was dry,Bad gasket. Got a new one and found out fel-pro makes one that doesnt require silicone. Its rubber and is made of silicone. Made the job twice as easy. Now it doesn't leak but the brake pedal is like putting your foot in a bucket of mud to push it. At first it will barely slow you down but I can push it to the floor with about half resistance like i was pushing down 1/4 of the way. Tried to pump them up,Doesn't work,stays the same. Could it be the booster or air in the lines? I already made the landlord mad for replaceing the gasket. I don't think she'll be pleased with me bleeding brakes as well even though I was way in the back by the dumpsters.
Make sure the rear shoes are adjusted up, but sounds like air in the lines. You don`t say what year but if it has RWAL then good luck in bleeding the rear lines.
But how does an engine run for 13K miles with no oil change and has no evident damage from it? She drove this truck hard and when I had the oil pan off,there was no metal shavings,cylinder walls were still steel colored with the cross-hatches still visable,barely but they were still there. Granted the oil was blacker then asphalt. But,When I put fresh oil in,fired it up,didnt smoke or anything and still has plenty of power left in it.
becuz 3K oil changes is a myth put out by the oil change companies to have us believe that after 100+ years of refinement (no pun) 3K is the best we can do?
My jetta TDI in the owners manual recommends 10K between oil changes. the TDI PD2 motor is so oil sensitive that if you dont use a particular spec oil the manual states severe injury or DEATH will result. Yet you can go that long between changes.
What would cause the fuel pump to suddenly decide to not want to run? Relay is good,It ran fine the other day. Now it wont do anything. When the key is turned on,there is like a plastic grinding under the throttle body but thats all it does. The pump doesn't even prime up. I dis-connected the battery and tried again,Nothing.
Thats one weakness in a Chevy bad fuel pumps. Yes it could have suddenly died. A neighbor has had two pumps go out on his 96 Chevy in 45,000 miles. I have never had a fuel pump go out on my fords with over 100000 miles on all off them. A new fuel pump sounds like the problem will be fixed.
I have a number of Chevy service trucks and the fuel pumps are junk and expensive to replace. They will quit working all of the sudden. If you ever run one out of gas, expect to replace it. The last fuel pump I had to replace in a ford was a 93 with 225,000 mi. (knock wood)
Its a Vortec with SFI. I ran my Chevy out of fuel 3 times and fuel pump still works. Hell,tonight I come home after formation and wife tells me its leaking oil again,I ask where and she said where it was before. I look,its not. At least not where it was before. Its coming from the rubber o-ring between the oil filter "bracket" and the block. And no one here has a o-ring that big. Wow,Id hate to bring a off-the-wall part. I tried auto-zone,orielly,and this one little small town store....forget them. I guess all these "parts houses" carry is ricer crap,oil,and small extreamly common crap. I need this truck running by next week because my wife needs it to get to work. Sharing one truck with our hours it just will not work out. Where is a place I can get a fuel pump that is cheap without going to a junkyard because if the one I get there is no good,since it is electrical,I'm s.o.l. And she wonders why I hate GM so much.........