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oh crap.....i have a 2004 f150 4x4 with 97,000 miles. i'm about to change the spark plugs. please send good vibes my way and keep your fingers crossed. i have read just about every forum on here and other sites about this. just removing the coil packs on the passenger side was a pain! first i used air to clean everything out, and then sprayed PB Blaster in around the plug. gonna wait an hour or so before i try and get 'em out. i know the TSB said turn the plug about a 1/4 turn first, but that first plug is "super" tight! damn i'm scared!
BTDT. All mine came out without breaking - hoping it goes as well for you!
I only had 49k miles and it was tough going for 4 of them. I used the Motorcraft tune up/carb cleaner fluid and AeroKroil together - sort of a chemical cocktail. Even with them loosened a 1/4 turn and soaking overnight, the fluid was still at the same level and had not wicked down like the TSB said it would.
Patience, patience, patience.
Did you remove the computer and mounting bracket from the passenger side for easier access? Very easy to do. I also removed the battery so the computer could lay over in that area and there's no need to disconnect the computer wiring.
Best of luck!
G-dog 98....not meant for you.....but to the rest of you, this is a GREAT example of someone who i'm guessing wished he'd have done them 60,000 miles ago.....
double crap. ok here's an update and new advice...
broke #1 plug, no problem, rigged up the extractor i saw on here, came out no problem. took my time on the others, went back and forth a little at at time (clockwise, counterclockwise) 6 more, no problem. #6 plug broke, (better than 4 or 8 i guess). started to perform same procedure breaking up the porcealin (sp?), and the porcealin WILLbreak through the electrode!!!! now i guess i will have to get some experience removing the head.
I just bought my 05 with 65000KM (about 42Kmi) and these spark plug threads have me worried. So what can I do to prevent this from happening, sould I put some penetrating oil in there and just let it be for a week or two before I try and remove the plugs?
Also, if I get them out successfully, is anti seize enough to prevent it from happening?
Its not the threads that cause the problem, its the bottom of the plug, these plugs look very different than your average spark plug....anti seize is a quick and cheap fix, although not nearly as reliable as just switching out the plugs for 1 piece plugs like the champion or brisk plugs....
those dang champion plugs at o'reilly's are $21.00 apiece! the 7 i have replaced are autolite HT1's and i used antiseize on the bottom portion. the #6 did break through the electrode so be careful. all in all it really wasn't that bad. i sprayed PB Blaster in first, let sit for a couple hours, then did the loosen tighten thing once then sprayed carb cleaner in. then i continued the loosen tighten thing about 20 times each and 6 of them came right out. i did the #6 last and i may have gotten a little cocky thats why it broke. sure didnt see the electrode breaking though.
we just broke 2 on the drivers side, the 2d in and the 4th. What tool are you referring to? As you noted they are very tight to loosen if they were torques to just 25lbft as the book called for!
Please advise on the tool for the ceramic at the bottom as we are figuring a trip to the dealer at a minimum as no one we know has any knowledge on pulling the heads to get out.
thats crazy that the same plugs are that much cheaper online!
you can do a search on here for it, it was shown on a different forum. i shouldnt say the name cause ! LOL
but i will try and explain it as best i can
the way i got the broken plug out was:
1. use a long screwdriver or punch to break up some of the remaning ceramic (be careful to not hit it too hard because i did manage to push a piece of the ceramic through the electrode)
2. vaccuum the pieces of broken out
3. use a 3/8 x 16 tap and thread the piece stuck in the head
4. use a 3/8 x 16 x 12" piece of threaded rod and screw it into the piece you just threaded
5. put 3 1/2 sockets over the rod with a washer on top and a nut
6. when you tighten the nut down, it will pull out the electrode
i explained this rather vaguely i know, but type in "plug removal tool" in the search and read through some of the forums and you will find a better explanation with pics.
I picked up the Champion 7989 plugs at Summit Racing for $12.95 ea. They get about $8 for sales tax on 8 of 'em if you buy it at one of their stores or order from out of state and it's $11.75 shipping with no sales tax.